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Old 03-26-2012, 07:23 PM   #261 (permalink)
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I guess that makes sense it is a very unpredictable sled... Is there any other ideas that you would recommend that are cost effective and safe?
ultimately what are you trying to achieve with this sled? more power?

whats it doing now that you dont like? may make suggestions a bit easier knowing your desires.
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Old 03-26-2012, 07:58 PM   #262 (permalink)
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I kinda figured I was close. But no snow now till next winter so I'll have all summer to finish this sled. The carb is off an arctic cat I believe a wild cat but not 100% sure on that. From what I could tell the jet was a 310 but idk couldn't really read it well.
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Old 03-26-2012, 08:32 PM   #263 (permalink)
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310 sounds about right. i would arm yourself with a 320 as well as a 300 just for playing purposes.

the mikuni 38's were pretty much identical and not brand specific. lots of good tuning info directly from mikuni.

be prepared to also play with the float height as well as the needle positioning. sounds like a fun sled.

ever consider trying some 540 cylinders and pistons? always wanted to do that when i had the ss around, never got it done.
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Old 03-26-2012, 10:46 PM   #264 (permalink)
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should be two bolts. you can get to it, but its not easy. have a reach magnet handy to fetch dropped parts. seems like with the carbs out of the way and the removal of the rear engine mount, your at the pump. you may even consider removing the center intake boot(reed cage)
Just finishing up the season and wanted to report how it went.... recleaned carbs, including inner filters, swapped out new spark plug caps cutting last 1/2 inch off plug wires, checked oil pump and weld held and pump checked out ok but found that the cable going that is a duel oil fuel cable was badly crimped at the joint. I took a 4" bolt and taped it as a splint to keep cable straight, this improved throttle control and I'm guessing oil control.
Bottomline Sled ran like new but had to chase the oil adjustment a few rides to get it into a good ratio. Thanks for all the help. this past weekend we had 2 fantastic rides going just about any where we wanted in the great snow in the Trinity Mtns. Beautiful!!
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Old 07-25-2012, 03:20 PM   #265 (permalink)
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Yamadad would you happen to know how wide the rails are on a first gen phazer? i bought a 116" track for my jag and it doesnt fit the skid so im wondering if a phazer skid would work i just need to know how wide apart the rails are
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Old 07-25-2012, 07:46 PM   #266 (permalink)
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depending on where you measure, 8 7/8" center to center is standard width on most yamaha rails. up to 9" is good to go.

keep in mind that some of the older sleds, like the one your inquiring about, had a bit of taper at the front of the tunnel. take your measures at midpoint on the rails or towards the rear. most all the 15" tracks used that 8 7/8" center to center.
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Old 07-26-2012, 06:27 PM   #267 (permalink)
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I just measured and my rails are about 7.5 inches from center so they're definitely narrow
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Old 07-26-2012, 08:30 PM   #268 (permalink)
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I just measured and my rails are about 7.5 inches from center so they're definitely narrow
that seems a bit odd. which rails are you measuring? ac or yamaha? i have never had any issues with track fitment from manufacturer to manufacturer excluding pitch differences.

even the narrower tunnel/track skids(14") and the wider 16"ers hold the same rail dimensions center to center so you could actually stick either in the standard 15" tunnel.

take the track you have and measure the windows center to center. whichever skid you have, measure rail to rail in several places. dont include the hyfax, some are offset. go aluminum to aluminum, top of rails, rear, center and front. be curious to see your findings.

lastly, just for the heck of it, measure your 116 track's pitch and verify the length. you may have some oddball track being misrepresented.
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Old 07-26-2012, 09:29 PM   #269 (permalink)
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that seems a bit odd. which rails are you measuring? ac or yamaha? i have never had any issues with track fitment from manufacturer to manufacturer excluding pitch differences.

even the narrower tunnel/track skids(14") and the wider 16"ers hold the same rail dimensions center to center so you could actually stick either in the standard 15" tunnel.

take the track you have and measure the windows center to center. whichever skid you have, measure rail to rail in several places. dont include the hyfax, some are offset. go aluminum to aluminum, top of rails, rear, center and front. be curious to see your findings.

lastly, just for the heck of it, measure your 116 track's pitch and verify the length. you may have some oddball track being misrepresented.
These are the Arctic Cat rails. I'm pretty sure i remember when i first saw that it wouldn't fit i measured the track that doesn't fit compared to the track i have on the phazer they were identical window wise ill have to remeasure to check. The track that came off the jag has drive lugs on the outside of the windows and on the inside thats why i think the rails are so narrow so the drive lugs could fit on the outside
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Old 07-29-2012, 08:29 PM   #270 (permalink)
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your results seem a bit puzzling. perhaps the drivers have been moved on the shaft or someone has altered them.

8 7/8" has been and still is the standard window seperation on tracks, +/- 1/4".

if you want to run that track and your measures are correct, wouldnt take much to shim the crosshafts between the rails for adaptation.
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Old 07-29-2012, 10:48 PM   #271 (permalink)
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I thought about that but I'm not sure how id go about shimming it
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Old 07-30-2012, 08:20 PM   #272 (permalink)
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couple ways to go about it, have had equal luck doing both for shimming to fit tunnels, seems like the same principals would apply.

stacked washers or cut sleeves. most hardware stores will have some sort of stock material compatable, you would just need to cut to length. in theory, your existing bolts will be long enough, but something you would want to double check.

i would suggest spacing each side equally and checking for straight and square prior to the install. doing the basic math, 8 7/8-7 1/2=1 3/8. divide by two = 11/16. with up to 1/8" +/- margin of error, 5/8-3/4 should suit.

prior to taking steps to shim(widen) the skid, i would place the skid as it stands inside the track your proposing to use and see exactly how it lands in the track lugs. track and skid on the shop floor.

if in fact you have an odd track or odd set of rails, you may even consider incorporating the phazer crosshafts between the ac rails. i have several of the phazer crosshafts.
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Old 07-31-2012, 02:18 PM   #273 (permalink)
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I tried to get pictures so its easier to explain they're not the greatest though.

It sits on the inside edge of the drive lugs on both sides like this






So by looking at it im wondering how you would put the washers in to widen it and i noticed that the rear wheels would have to be widened too im not sure how id do that
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Old 07-31-2012, 10:30 PM   #274 (permalink)
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wow, not what i expected to see at all on the skid, just what i had imagined on the track lugs. it almost appears as though someone altered that skid at one time to fit the track. who knows.

disregard the widening theory, probably not worth the effort. there is something definately amiss there from what i am getting from the pictures. you may want to consult kc cats(the resident cat expert) on that skid and see if he has any insight or knowledge.

if your wanting to put the pz 116 track under that cat, how about using and adapting the pz skid to it? if you dont want to sacrifice your skid, i have a skid and or skid parts available for cheap, if your interested. cheaper than a new track.
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Old 07-31-2012, 11:26 PM   #275 (permalink)
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Im thinking that any 116" skid would be good for it but it seems like a waste to not be able to use this one since it has a good shock and new hyfax. What kind of stuff would i need to make it fit the track?
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Old 08-01-2012, 10:34 PM   #276 (permalink)
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may be more trouble than its worth depending on your fabrication skills.

looking at your pictures, the biggest hurdle you will have to overcome will be the front arm since its directly mounted with bracketry to the rails. some creativity and the access to the right equipment and it may be easier than it appears. could be nothing more than the camera angle, but there appears to be some bent and worn components on that existing skid.

i would completely disassemble whats there and mock up what you can to the 8 7/8" width. once your close in the mockup, hold that front pivot arm above the rails once they are spaced properly and see what you can do to adapt them back to fit.

somewhere along this adventure, dont forget to compare efforts to end results. make a good assessment prior to starting, add up your material costs and trips to suppliers and toss a few dollars on top for the unforseen. compare these preliminary costs along with your efforts towards a different skid and spend your money wisely.
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Old 08-01-2012, 11:59 PM   #277 (permalink)
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I could probably pick up a first gen phazer skid for $100 and thats sounding like a much easier option i was just avoiding putting more money into the sleds seeing as how last winter was a complete waste of money.
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Old 08-02-2012, 08:42 PM   #278 (permalink)
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if you prefer that route, i have one you can have for shipping costs just to get rid of it. little to no rust, good shocks, could use some hyfax.

one bad snow year shouldnt change your mind. i compare snow years to ocean waves. best and biggest every seven years. waning slightly back to placid and steadily increasing again. love the tsunami years!
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Old 08-03-2012, 11:48 AM   #279 (permalink)
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I'm not ready for one yet because I've been putting all my money into my truck but ill definitely be getting back with you. Could that be mounted in my 116" skids holes or will I probably have to drill new?
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Old 08-06-2012, 07:35 PM   #280 (permalink)
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Yamadad4, Thanks for all the help with the rebuild and patching together my Yamaha Viper over the past couple years. I am really considering breaking down and buying a 2013. Reading all the reviews, they talk like they are finally working on th e stearing and trying to make it an easier ride... Do you know anything about the 2013 Ski DooXM. the spring reviews sounded like it would be a great mountain boondocking machine.. I hoping to upgrade to 800 XM 154 adding power and help with the sidehill, carving and turns... Is it all magazine magic or do you think you get what you pay for??
Thanks
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