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Old 07-26-2011, 07:10 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Fuel leaks from carbs on 2005 RX1

Having transported my sleds from Goffstown NH, to Pittsburg NH, 185 miles. I tried starting my RX1, but it was hard to start. After getting running I drove it into my garage to have a closer look. There was a strong gas odor and after taking the airbox off and starting the machine again, I observed gas was coming out the fronts of the two carbs on the right. appears to be something stuck inside the carbs but I'm not sure what. Floats come to mind first. Need to know what the best course of action to take without taking the carbs off and dismantling them. Any help would be appreciated.

Gerry
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Old 07-26-2011, 07:30 AM   #2 (permalink)
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floats are typically the culprit, you need to do some further investigation.

was the fuel tank full during transport? i have seen excess pressure build during transport and actually flood the carbs if the vent line is partially restricted.

also, look closely at the plastic "T" fitting where the fuel lines attach to the carb rack. these can crack or break causing a fuel leak if the carbs have been recently removed/installed.
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Old 07-26-2011, 08:49 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Thanks for your reply! The fuel tanks were empty and a put apprx. 2 gallons in each sled before starting then up. My other sleds started fine after putting gas in them, two Arctic Cat t-660 turbos and my Dad's sled, a 2007 RS Venture. Both the RS and the RX1 I had put fuel cut offs because of the hydrostatic lock problems with the Yamaha sleds. I did check all the fuel liones and connectors but the only leaks I found is when after starting the sled up the fuel was squirting out the front of the two carbs in question.
The slim metal rods just inside the carb intakes are they part of the float assembly? and would it be possible to push these rods down back into the carb bowl solve this problem? As I said in my last post, the carbs and fuel tank were empty as I drain the tank and carbs in the spring. Would the long road trip perhaps bounce the floats around and have them get stuck in the highest position inside the float bowl? Not sure with any more possible problems

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Old 07-26-2011, 10:22 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Welcome to the forum!

The slim rod in the center of the carb is the jet needle and does not affect the float. Sometimes the gas inlet needle/seat sticks open and the float can't shut the gas off, I would look at that as well as a mis-aligned float. Here's a website with diagrams of your sled...

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Old 07-26-2011, 11:11 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Thanks Dan for the info......will post if I have any luck, thanks again.
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Old 07-26-2011, 11:32 AM   #6 (permalink)
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hey man your also from NH? me too i love riding in the colebrook/Pittsburg area. welcome to the forum.
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Old 07-26-2011, 12:56 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Hi Bro, looking forward to riding in the Great North woods of NH. Best riding in the North-East. With over 221 inches of snow last year in Pittsburg should be some early and long season riding.

Gerry
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Old 07-26-2011, 06:42 PM   #8 (permalink)
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more than likely, depending on your summarizing procedure, you have a stuck float caused by the needle not sealing in the seat. if your referring to the right side as sitting on the sled, these are the carbs that get fueled first from the fuel pump as the lines are shorter and can actually rob supply from the other two carbs under a pressured non running condition.

let me explain that further. lets say you drained the fuel from the tank or even ran the carbs dry with an added fuel shut off. under extreme conditions fuel can make its way into the carbs. as simple as residual fuel from the lines due to an air lock or pressure build up past the sealing capacity of the fuel shutoff. ultimately fuel ends up in the carbs and begins its cycle of contamination. doesnt take much to disrupt the sealing of the needle to the seat. the tiniest of foreign material and the fuel will flow, typically associated with todays wonderful fuel.

to me the front of the carbs would be the engine side and the rear would face the airbox. note the overflow tubes on the rearward side to see if this is where the fuel is draining from.

i think your in for a carb cleaning session and those are a pain to r & r, but you will be miles ahead to service them prior to snow season.
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Old 07-27-2011, 07:37 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Thanks again for the good information. What would be the best course of action in my case, do the work myself or have a Yamaha tech do this work. I do have some knowledge in carbs, more in the Weber type as I use to race my Fiat 124 Spyder and they had twin 40 IDF Webers, (2 twin chokes)Changing jets, etc., without taking the carbs off the manifold. Very easy to work on. I'm not sure with with the carbs on the RX1, as this is the first time I've had any problems before with them. Can the jets you mentioned be accessed without pulling the whole assembly off? I like the course of least resistance when it comes to these thing's so any experience you have would be appreciated. I checked the Yamaha site but it did not reveal too much technical information on how to gain access
this part to reseat it. Again, thanks for all your help.

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Old 07-27-2011, 09:18 PM   #10 (permalink)
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the removal and reinstall is straightforward, as is the cleaning. easy to walk you through it.

where the issues may arise is in the sychronization. not knowing the full scope of your abilities and no dis intended, i would encourage you to pull the carbs, clean them thoroughly, reinstall them and let the dealer sync them.

more than happy to walk you through the process.
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Old 07-28-2011, 11:00 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Yes, that would be great if you explained the whole procedure to me. I did take a quick look at the set-up and there seems to be a straight forward removal. But like all thing's of this nature, there is something always hiding around the corner to bite you in the butt. Can the carbs be cleaned without taking all the cables and lines off or would it be more practical removing the whole assembly from the sled? Looking forward to your reply. Thanks again.

Gerry
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Old 07-28-2011, 06:16 PM   #12 (permalink)
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carbs must be removed to perform a thorough cleaning. best part is if you open up 1 at a time, you have 3 more for comparison. by the time you get to #4, you wont even have to reference the others.

you will want to remove the carbs as a "rack". the cables and electronics need to be removed/unplugged at the carb rack, more on that when your ready.

the fuel supply lines you will want to remove at the pump and leave the hoses attached at the carbs. this will reduce the chances of breaking those plastic t fittings. you will also encounter the coolant lines for the carb heat. this should be self explanatory, make sure the valve is turned to off. all the vent lines stay with the carbs.

once the rack is out and on the bench, you can start the cleaning process. basic tools are all thats needed. compressed air is a big help and you will need a few aerosol cans of carb spray cleaner. i use bottle type brushes in assorted sizes, makes for easier cleaning if you have some available.

let me know when your ready. it will make a good write for that style carbs to share with others.
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Old 07-28-2011, 06:53 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Very good!, Let me know in your own time as I'm still in the process of moving from southern NH, Goffstown to northern NH, Pittsburg. As all my tools will not be up until next week, I won't be able to start the job until then. If you want to send the information out that would be OK as I can just print your reply. I did take a closer look at the carbs today and they seem that the job will not be that bad. I'm just glad I found the problem now as I'm sure it would not be too pleasant the first week of snowmobiling when it's 20 degrees outside. The other problem I have up here is that the local Yamaha dealer went out of business a few years ago and now the closest one is about thirty miles from here in Vermont. Again, I can not thank you enough for all your help, and I think with your knowledge, I should have no problem with this "little" job. Thanks again,

Gerry
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Old 07-28-2011, 10:02 PM   #14 (permalink)
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when you get settled in, i will walk you through. you will be surprised at how simple it really is.

let me know when your ready.
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Old 07-29-2011, 08:01 PM   #15 (permalink)
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OK, very good, looking forward to this job, will contact you when I'm ready, thanks.
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Old 07-31-2011, 09:51 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Interesting thread Gerry since I have the same sled as you. No issues, yet, but will learn alot by this thread........
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