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Old 11-13-2011, 12:44 PM   #81 (permalink)
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I got my brothers craftsman tester and it shows 100psi in the mag side and 105 or slightly over in the pto side. It's encouragement anyway. Now I'm just gonna have to give it the initial blip test on the lift or I'll wait for the first snow to fly. It'll be soon I'm thinking

Scrammy~ No harm jumping in at all. I guess I have only used 2 testers and this one seems most reliable to me anyway.
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Old 11-13-2011, 12:56 PM   #82 (permalink)
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sounds like you just need to get a few heat cycles and get the rings to seat.

curious, is there a major difference in the hose length between the two testers or just a noticable difference in quality?
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Old 11-13-2011, 01:10 PM   #83 (permalink)
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The hose length is about the same but the quality seems much better. One main difference is when I screw in the hose to the cylinder the craftsman one allows me to get it tighter, the other one actually has the hose that rotates on the screw in part which seems worthless, not like you can put a plug wrench on it...

The other tester came in a chunk of styrofoam, the craftsman came in a nice black box which has a latch on it

Appreciate your advice as always. I will wait to give it a couple heat cycles and I will for surely keep you posted.
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Old 11-13-2011, 07:16 PM   #84 (permalink)
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For me, it took about a hundred miles to see a gain in compression on the first rebuild, and I'm about to start on the second. You don't have to wait for snow, I have ran mine a little on the stand to keep all of the parts fresh, and not to sit to long.
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Old 11-13-2011, 08:09 PM   #85 (permalink)
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Isn't it good to have a load on the engine during break in? Forgive me if this is a stupid question. We will have snow I'm predicting in the next few weeks.

Thanks for the encouragement on compression going up after a while. Man I can't wait to ride her.
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Old 11-13-2011, 09:22 PM   #86 (permalink)
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Yes it is, but since the engine isn't summarized anymore, I run it every month or so to get oil coating everything.
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Old 11-17-2011, 10:10 PM   #87 (permalink)
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See if this makes sense fellas

I went to run it tonight outside the garage, started 3rd pull, warmed it up to operating temp (lifted the track and gave it some gas to spin it, brought the RPM's up to about 5k. Killed it at that RPM and checked the plugs. The Mag side was wet and didn't really appear to have been burning and the PTO side was getting a carbon coating on the end of the plug. Note: These were new plugs I put in for testing. Checked compression and both sides were the same just past 100psi.

Both sides of the exhaust manifold were hot, symptoms are normal. Plugs both seemed warm with the pto side a bit warmer as assumed.

Put the plugs back in and started it up, pulled the PTO side plug wire and it seemed like I had to give it gas to keep it running but it would run. Did this with a completely different plug too. Then we pulled the MAG side plug wire and it seemed to idle fine without any blips on the throttle.

Prior to this I snipped about a 1/4 inch of plug wire on the MAG side and screwed the cap back on. Both sides have spark too.

I guess what I'm asking is what do you think could be causing the MAG side plug not to get that initial carbon on the tip like the pto side?

Thanks guys for any insight. On the up side I smell like a million bucks right now. Man I love 2 stroke!
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Old 11-17-2011, 10:28 PM   #88 (permalink)
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i would take it with a grain of salt and back up a bit to your previous concerns and base the difference on the fact the mag side is receiving the air from the fan.

have you held your hand under the exhaust outlet to physically feel the exhaust heat? if your not feeling heat, the engine isnt warming enough. it wont be hot to the hand, but with a little practice, you can feel it. same with the heads. dont be afraid to lay a hand down on the cooling fins and compare temps. access to an infrared heat gun is also a plus.

exhaust manifold is not a good judging point as it will almost equally show heat form only one cylinder in the y portion.

i am one up on you in the cologne department. full synthetic with race gas. mmmmm. shop doors are still up and airing out. my beverage has a funny taste to it now.

hey, dont overthink things if your running on the stand. look at the hood and the vents are there for a reason: to equalize cooling on the cylinders and pipe. motion plays alot into the equation. just make sure each time you cycle yo can feel the heat from the exhaust outlet.
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Old 11-17-2011, 10:30 PM   #89 (permalink)
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The PTO is always hotter, as it is the farthest from the fan. It will burn carbon onto the plugs first, get hotter first, and it will be the first to burn a piston. On my sled, MAG side is always darker, and in the summer, It is wetter than the PTO. Keep in mind that I have a single carb.
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Old 11-17-2011, 10:43 PM   #90 (permalink)
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You guys are always great help to me.

I'm overlooking this I think but I'm gaining vast knowledge from you guys.

Yamadad~ I failed to mention I did feel heat under the exhaust outlet, also could feel the exhaust itself next to the chain case and it was hot.

I'm gonna try to sneak in bed tonight without showering, see how long that takes the wife to notice me

Thanks for the encouraging info!

Yamaha440 ~ Great to know it'll burn carbon first on the PTO side. My XLV also has the single carb, I think I can only handle one at this time anyway Thanks for the info!

We might get some snow this coming Saturday but dont know what it'll amount too yet. The pond behind my place is frozen now.
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Old 12-02-2011, 02:50 PM   #91 (permalink)
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This was a really good post to read. We just purchased some sled (cant remember what it was called) but it had a SRV 540 engine in it and the guy said he just replaced a cylinder in it and we were worried to find one cylinder was 90-100 psi, thinking that was low, but he explained just what you guys explained about the rings not being worn in. So that is great to hear.

Also I know I should know this but what cylinders is PTO and Mag? just for future reference I would love to know lol
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Old 12-02-2011, 02:54 PM   #92 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by alexk243 View Post
This was a really good post to read. We just purchased some sled (cant remember what it was called) but it had a SRV 540 engine in it and the guy said he just replaced a cylinder in it and we were worried to find one cylinder was 90-100 psi, thinking that was low, but he explained just what you guys explained about the rings not being worn in. So that is great to hear.

Also I know I should know this but what cylinders is PTO and Mag? just for future reference I would love to know lol
It's also nice reference for me to go back to in case I question what exactly happened.

I'm sitting at just over 100psi, praying for snow so I can break it in.

PTO is the Clutch side
MAG is the Magneto side (or side where recoil is attached to).

Feel free to ask questions, a bunch of great guys here.
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Old 12-15-2011, 11:08 PM   #93 (permalink)
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Man still no snow. This is nuts!

Anyway I don't know what triggered my mind tonight but I found myself tearing into my sled again. Last season I replaced a diaphragm in the fuel pump that had a tear in it but never did a complete rebuild. I decided tonight I'd get the fuel pump out and ready for the rebuild kit when I receive it (on order). I decided to open it up and low and behold there was a rip in the screen that should not allow fuel through where the vacuum line attaches to. There was also some fuel in the vacuum line too.

I'm guessing this can cause problems especially bringing more fuel into the crank. Perhaps this is why the fan side cylinder plug was wet after running it a bit. I still haven't done the break in and I'll wait for snow to do that.

I'm really glad I decided to tear into my fuel pump again, I just had a feeling something wasn't right with it.
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Old 02-26-2012, 09:16 PM   #94 (permalink)
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UPDATE UPDATE!!!!
I have now had the XLV out a couple times, once on Jan 29th and now just today. Man its sucked with no snow, finally got a snow storm today and took it around the yard a bit, as I did back on Jan 29th. The sled runs really good!

I just want to send a thanks out to everyone who helped me by answering my stupid questions. I have learned alot about this engine during the rebuild and know it like the back of my hand now.

So far so good is what I can report. I still need to get it out on the trail for a longer ride, but this is a start. Hopefully the compression comes up a bit once the break in is complete.
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Old 03-12-2012, 11:44 AM   #95 (permalink)
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Ok guys i still can't figure out how to post a thread. Grr...help? Cause I have a question about my Yamaha XLV.
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Old 03-12-2012, 06:51 PM   #96 (permalink)
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Ok guys i still can't figure out how to post a thread. Grr...help? Cause I have a question about my Yamaha XLV.
when your on the main yamaha page, on the upper left there is a black tab "new thread". click on that and post away with your issues.
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Old 12-29-2012, 04:54 PM   #97 (permalink)
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Yamadad I need you again!!!

This fall I cleaned the carb, replaced fuel with a little premix (still using auto lube) and removed my battery assembly since its dead and the electric start doesn't work anyway.

Today I got it fired up, drove around the yard a couple times and loaded it up on the trailer and went to the country. Drove the ditch a ways and had good power until after I slowed down I couldn't speed up, seemed to get boggy and I could not get the RPM's past 4500. Stopped to check plugs, they seemed fine, not over rich but I replaced them anyway. Started it up, could go for a little ways and it got really boggy again. Stopped, plugs were fine but I again replaced them. Started it up and made it back to the truck and loaded it up.

Once I got home I checked compression, its 105 across the board. Also remember this is a newly rebuilt motor. Starts great all the time. Perhaps rings aren't seated yet, its only got 30 miles on it. I lifted the back end and gave it hell and watched the clutches, they seem to operate fine as I can tell. I'm sure they could use a cleaning however.

A side note, when I did clean the carb, I did it while the throttle and oil line were still connected. I just removed the bowl, I didn't pull the air screw off the top and I had a hell of a time with one jet, I forget which one now but I blowed everything out with carb cleaner.

Advice for me? It ran good last season, only thing I've done is partially clean carb and remove electric start assembly with battery. I'm thinking I'll need to pull the carb again.
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Old 12-30-2012, 09:36 AM   #98 (permalink)
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I fully removed the carb last night and thorougly cleaned it. I removed all jets and cleaned with carb cleaner. Put it back together last night and fired it up. I did not warm up the engine and test as it was getting late.

I also cleaned the area on the secondary where it slides. It had some caked on grease. I am still not too familiar with the clutches. Yesterday I did run it on the stand, the primary closed and the secondary opened normally but maybe under load something is hanging somewhere.

I hope to test it out today and will report back the update.
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Old 12-30-2012, 05:02 PM   #99 (permalink)
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I got good news. I went out today and tried opening the secondary and found it a bit sticky when it tried to close. I put alittle wd 40 on it and worked it open and close and it felt much better. I know you should probably use some graphite or something but I don't have any.

I took it up and down the street and it was very responsive and seemed back to normal. Drove around the yard a bit too. Now the ultimate test is finding a ditch to ride for a bit to see how it responds.

Feels like I am answering my own questions but I do realize its the weekend and everyone is out playing. At any rate I have learned a ton here and enjoy helping anyone if I can with my little knowledge. Happy New Year fellas!
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Old 12-31-2012, 08:50 AM   #100 (permalink)
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Sometimes just putting those thoughts into words makes you think about them more and connects to what you have read so that you come up with the solution.

When the secondary gets sticky again, use brake cleaner in there instead of WD. It will flush out the gunk and leave it with no residue.
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