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Old 02-23-2011, 07:33 PM   #101 (permalink)
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I took a short video of it so you could hear what it sounds like, but the sound didn't come with it when I sent it to my e-mail.

The picture quality sucked because it was taken with a phone, but you can hear just fine.
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Old 02-23-2011, 07:44 PM   #102 (permalink)
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Hearing is all you need.
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My Current Sled:
1997 Yamaha Vmax XTC 600 Twin ER 6290 MI - Stock... for now...

Old Iron:
1979 Yamaha Exciter 440 6042 MI (9825 KM)
1979 Yamaha Exciter 440 7,000 MI (11266 KM)


WAKE-UP AND SMELL THE TWO STROKE


2012-2013 Miles: 1739
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Old 02-23-2011, 07:58 PM   #103 (permalink)
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Yes, thats what made me mad.
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Old 02-23-2011, 08:02 PM   #104 (permalink)
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You should look at the carbs and clean them, it'll only take a few minutes. while your in there, check to make sure jetting is up to spec. Throw some new plugs in, and see how she holds up...
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My Current Sled:
1997 Yamaha Vmax XTC 600 Twin ER 6290 MI - Stock... for now...

Old Iron:
1979 Yamaha Exciter 440 6042 MI (9825 KM)
1979 Yamaha Exciter 440 7,000 MI (11266 KM)


WAKE-UP AND SMELL THE TWO STROKE


2012-2013 Miles: 1739
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Old 02-23-2011, 08:07 PM   #105 (permalink)
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Before I take anything apart again I am going to figure out what screw is what on the carb so I can try and adjust it a little.

Huge PITA to put the carb and airbox back on.
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Old 02-23-2011, 08:23 PM   #106 (permalink)
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Been there, done that, it is hard to get things back together.

Here, clear things up a little:





Tag Part # Description Price

1 8H9-14101-02-00 CARBURETOR ASY 1 Call Us

2 8G8-14184-00-00 GASKET, FLOAT CHMBR $8.07

3 8H5-14181-00-00 BODY, FLOAT CHMBR 1 $19.53

4 137-14143-38-A0 JET, MAIN (#190) | U.R. $2.97

137-14143-44-A1 JET, MAIN 220 (220) | U.R. $2.97

137-14143-40-A1 JET, MAIN (#200) | U.R. $2.97

137-14143-42-A1 JET, MAIN #210 (210) | U.R. STD $2.97

137-14143-36-A1 JET, MAIN (#180) | U.R. $2.97

5 558-14147-00-00 O-RING $3.12

6 500-14115-00-00 PLUG, SCREW $10.23

7 8G8-14123-00-00 SCREW, AIR ADJUSTING $8.07

8 137-14134-00-00 SPRING, AIR ADJUSTING $3.45

9 239-14195-00-00 WASHER, NEEDLE VALVE $8.53

10 8H5-14190-15-00 NEEDLE VALVE ASSEMBLY $13.37

11 537-14186-00-00 PIN, FLOAT $2.97

12 8H5-14185-00-00 FLOAT $19.03

13 8G8-14174-00-00 CAP, PLUNGER $8.41

14 127-14135-00-00 COIL, SPRING $2.97

15 8G8-14178-00-00 PLATE, STARTER LVR $3.93

16 8G8-14171-00-00 PLUNGER, STARTER $9.77

17 193-14142-90-A1 JET, PILOT (# 90) $2.97

18 98580-05550-00 SCREW, PAN HEAD $2.97

19 849-14134-00-00 SPRING, AIR ADJUSTING Call Us

20 313-14146-00-00 PLATE $9.35

21 89A-14987-00-00 HOSE $4.66

22 97885-05016-00 SCREW, PAN HEAD $2.97

23 92990-05100-00 WASHER, SPRING $2.97

24 98580-04008-00 SCREW, PAN HEAD $2.97

25 239-14172-10-00 PILOT JET, AIR (1.0) $2.97
__________________
My Current Sled:
1997 Yamaha Vmax XTC 600 Twin ER 6290 MI - Stock... for now...

Old Iron:
1979 Yamaha Exciter 440 6042 MI (9825 KM)
1979 Yamaha Exciter 440 7,000 MI (11266 KM)


WAKE-UP AND SMELL THE TWO STROKE


2012-2013 Miles: 1739
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Old 02-24-2011, 08:50 PM   #107 (permalink)
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Today I noticed that it is missing the screw that is closest to the airbox on the carb....Do I need a special screw or is there a certain one I could go pick up from a hardware store?
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Old 02-24-2011, 10:57 PM   #108 (permalink)
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In my airboxes on both the 87 and the 79's I've found a bolt with a nut. This nut is fitted in a hex hole to keep it prom turning. I've found nuts that are missing and just screws. They are held in with pressure, not cast in, so a simple push will get is out. A wood screw at the right diameter may work, of a bolt and nut.(nut doesn't have to fit in the slot, just hold the halves together as if there was no slot, you may want a lock washer or nut too)
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My Current Sled:
1997 Yamaha Vmax XTC 600 Twin ER 6290 MI - Stock... for now...

Old Iron:
1979 Yamaha Exciter 440 6042 MI (9825 KM)
1979 Yamaha Exciter 440 7,000 MI (11266 KM)


WAKE-UP AND SMELL THE TWO STROKE


2012-2013 Miles: 1739
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Old 02-25-2011, 04:33 PM   #109 (permalink)
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Here she is.
Attached Thumbnails
Yamaha Enticer 300-jordan-044.jpg   Yamaha Enticer 300-jordan-054.jpg  
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Old 02-25-2011, 07:02 PM   #110 (permalink)
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You really should keep it. I'd put it on a pallet, then throw a tarp over it after you summarize. It would save the lack of space. Is it running any better?
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My Current Sled:
1997 Yamaha Vmax XTC 600 Twin ER 6290 MI - Stock... for now...

Old Iron:
1979 Yamaha Exciter 440 6042 MI (9825 KM)
1979 Yamaha Exciter 440 7,000 MI (11266 KM)


WAKE-UP AND SMELL THE TWO STROKE


2012-2013 Miles: 1739
Yamaha440 is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 02-25-2011, 07:04 PM   #111 (permalink)
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I havn't had time do anything to it yet, but it starts without having to put it on a stand now.

I am getting another sled this weekend and dont have room.
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Old 02-25-2011, 07:13 PM   #112 (permalink)
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Have you tried adjusting the mix screw?(one on the top, engine side) I think it is 1 5/8 turns out.
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My Current Sled:
1997 Yamaha Vmax XTC 600 Twin ER 6290 MI - Stock... for now...

Old Iron:
1979 Yamaha Exciter 440 6042 MI (9825 KM)
1979 Yamaha Exciter 440 7,000 MI (11266 KM)


WAKE-UP AND SMELL THE TWO STROKE


2012-2013 Miles: 1739
Yamaha440 is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 02-25-2011, 07:21 PM   #113 (permalink)
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turns out....is that to the right or left if I am standing on the sled?
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Old 02-25-2011, 08:31 PM   #114 (permalink)
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Lefty-loosey any at angle, as long as you are facing the top of the screw. 1 5/8 turns from gently snug. Just turn opposite way of in..
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My Current Sled:
1997 Yamaha Vmax XTC 600 Twin ER 6290 MI - Stock... for now...

Old Iron:
1979 Yamaha Exciter 440 6042 MI (9825 KM)
1979 Yamaha Exciter 440 7,000 MI (11266 KM)


WAKE-UP AND SMELL THE TWO STROKE


2012-2013 Miles: 1739
Yamaha440 is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 02-26-2011, 08:02 PM   #115 (permalink)
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so you made me read through six pages of random crap between you and to see the picture of your carb you asked me about via private message? i could tell after about half way through page two someone hasnt been offering much for guidance, but there were at least one or two things that were suggested that were actually accurate.

for one, clean the carb. if it looks that bad on the outside, whats it like inside? especially with the ripped boot. how long has the crud been sucking into the carb? secondly, the recommended adjustment is close to correct. 1 1/2 to 1 5/8 turns out for a starting point. should be a sticker under your hood or on the belt guard that has the tuning specs.

there is only one screw on the top of the carb. thats your air screw. turning it in will richen the mixture, turning it out will lean the mixture. as your sitting on the sled, turning it to the right is tight, left is loose. left is lean, right is rich. turn it all the way to the right, slowly back it out, counting your turns carefully, until your at 1.5 turns. follow the tips i gave you in our pm's.

of course the carb needs to be clean, the engine warm, the throttle cable properly adjusted along with the oil cable and the choke plunger and cable needs to be set correctly before trying to make any air adjustments.

as for that band-aid on the boot, duct tape will fail quickly. there are better methods for repair. with the duct tape, you may be fighting a long battle with too much air.

as for the extra hole, that just a vent/overflow circuit. propably no threads in there at all so dont worry about a bolt. if its threaded, we need to have another conversation. may have had at one time a nipple for a hose pressed in there. to check, when you pull the carb to clean it, turn the carb upside down while it still has fuel in the bowl. fuel should come out that hole.

also, your handle bars will move forward or back by simply loosening the four bolts where they mount to the steering post, or at least the enticer i own does. i even moved them left and right, as long as you keep part of the knurl under the clamps. whenever you move the bars, always check the cables for binding.
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Old 02-26-2011, 08:58 PM   #116 (permalink)
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^Sorry you read through all the pages.....

Thanks for the info. When I had the carb off the first time gas come out of the hole your talking about.
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Old 02-27-2011, 08:00 PM   #117 (permalink)
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Where can I get a belt for it? I have two old napa belts from a 81 jag, do you think it would be worth the effort to try one of them?
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Old 02-28-2011, 08:40 PM   #118 (permalink)
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You can get cheap belts here if you don't want to pay the $60 for an oem belt:Snowmobile - Drivetrain & Traction - DennisKirk.com
Though I have pretty good luck with an oem. The artic cat belt will have to be the same, or it won't preform right.
__________________
My Current Sled:
1997 Yamaha Vmax XTC 600 Twin ER 6290 MI - Stock... for now...

Old Iron:
1979 Yamaha Exciter 440 6042 MI (9825 KM)
1979 Yamaha Exciter 440 7,000 MI (11266 KM)


WAKE-UP AND SMELL THE TWO STROKE


2012-2013 Miles: 1739
Yamaha440 is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 02-28-2011, 08:53 PM   #119 (permalink)
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I'm so stupid....I just remember there is a spare belt on the cluth cover.

If it isn't any better than the one on it, I will probly buy the 20 dollar one from DK
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Old 02-28-2011, 10:10 PM   #120 (permalink)
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check around your local area for any belt suppliers. a dayco equivalent to the oem is probably cheaper in the long run than paying the postage and handling with dennis kirk on top of the belt price.
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