point ignition timing - Snowmobile Forum: Your #1 Snowmobile Forum

ArcherThr · 07-14-2005, 12:19 AM

Hi, I have a 1973 arctic cat panther 440 f/c twin. I have all of the specs for the sled, but do not know the correct way to time it. It is not running right now and I believe it is due to the fact that the timing is off. What is the easiest way to time a point ignition snowmobile? Thanks,
-Kyle

**smallengineguy** · 07-14-2005, 06:58 AM

There's a way to do it with an ohm meter, basically you need the points to just start to open about 3 degrees before the piston hits TDC.

IndianRvrShiver · 07-14-2005, 07:02 AM

To answer your question, the simplest way is with a feeler gauge. Firstly, you need to know what the recommended point gap should be.....look in owners manual or research on-line (SEG, help?). Behind the flywheel & under a metal cover, you will find the housing containing the points & condenser. You will need to rotate the crankshaft so that you are on the high spot of the cam (maximum opening). Loosen the screw that holds the points. At this point, you will adjust the gap to get the recommended opening by opening/closing the lower contact. When you think you have it right, tighten the screw & re-measure with the feeler gauge; sometimes they move when you tighten the screw.

There are other, more accurate methods using dial indicators, degree wheels & buzz boxes, but you asked for the easiest way.
The hardest part will probably removing the recoil starter & the flywheel.

Good luck & welcome to the snow show!!

**smallengineguy** · 07-14-2005, 07:51 PM

Point gap is .020, but the points are used to time it also, so you need to make sure they are opening at exactly the right time, not too early or late. Too early before TDC, and it'll knock (preignite), too late and you'll have no power.

ArcherThr · 07-14-2005, 10:10 PM

Yes, but it isn't even running right now. Could the timing be far enough off that it would cause it to not start?

SnowRida · 07-15-2005, 05:29 AM

Clean your carbs/floats and jets. This could also be your problem if they are gummed up.

**smallengineguy** · 07-15-2005, 06:27 AM

Get an inline spark tester to see if you even have spark first. If timing off, it'll backfire out of the carbs, etc. so you'll at least get something.

ArcherThr · 07-15-2005, 01:09 PM

It has spark, and once in awhile it does backfire out of the carb/muffler.

**smallengineguy** · 07-15-2005, 05:16 PM

Sounds like it's not timed right. As you turn the engine by hand with the head cover off, you should see the points just start to open as the piston is just about at TDC.

ArcherThr · 07-15-2005, 06:36 PM

Which piston, pto or mag? Or is it the piston the point is opening for?

**smallengineguy** · 07-15-2005, 07:44 PM

Only one point set will open at a time, for whatever piston that's at TDC.

ArcherThr · 07-16-2005, 07:53 PM

Could it possibly be bad gas?

**smallengineguy** · 07-16-2005, 08:35 PM

Will it run if you squirt 2 stroke into the carbs with a windex bottle?

ArcherThr · 07-17-2005, 11:35 AM

No, it doesn't run when you squirt it in to the carb.

**smallengineguy** · 07-17-2005, 12:20 PM

Bad spark/mis-timed.

ArcherThr · 07-17-2005, 10:12 PM

I found tdc on the pto (left) piston. I rotated the crankcase 20degrees before tdc, but no matter how we turn the stator, we can't get the points adjusted to the point where they are just opening. Any ideas on an easier way to do this? Also, there are two sets of marks on the flywheel. A "R" (right) and directly opposite an "L" left. These marks seem to corrospond to the tdc's of each piston. There is also a second mark in each set that is labled "F". This mark is about three degrees off of tdc. Does anyone know what this is? Thanks,
-Kyle

**smallengineguy** · 07-18-2005, 06:47 AM

That's the point where they should just start to open, about 3 degrees before TDC. Can you ge them to open then?

ArcherThr · 08-06-2005, 04:02 PM

Hi, I have been gone for the past couple of weeks, but I just got back and started messing with it again. I just adjusted it again today, and a backfire as loud as a shotgun blast came out of the muffler. Now when I pull it over it seems to want to go in the opposite direction or something, and makes the recoil jerk to a halt, and lots of smoke is coming out of the carb. Does this mean the timing is too retarted, advanced? Does it need to be retarted/advanced? Also, I can't really see the points when it is in that position (right before tdc) I was wondering if there is any device I can rig up that can tell me when the points are open/closed. Thanks a lot for your help,
-Kyle

**smallengineguy** · 08-06-2005, 07:54 PM

Way too advanced. You can do it with an ohm meter.

ArcherThr · 08-06-2005, 10:35 PM

Do you rotate it clockwise to retard the timing or counterclockwise?