1980 Ski Doo Everest 500 - Ran for a bit...? - Snowmobile Forum: Your #1 Snowmobile Forum

witmeraa · 01-15-2013, 09:52 PM

Hey guys, I bought an Everest 500 and was told it ran a few years back. Got it home and it would not run. It was a spark issue. I sanded the points and checked the coils/magneto for the proper resistance and then new plugs. Since then I learned about disconnecting the wiring harness and how the machine is in the run on position and it will clear any ground issues when troublee shooting. It turns out that the kill switch was stuck in the off/ground position. It started right up.

I had it out running for about and hour and ran it out of gas. When I finally was able to get it started again it was smoking real bad, it was definitely not running as well. I adjusted the carb a little to see if that would help. No tac so hard to dial that. It was spluttering like it was missing or maybe running in one cylinder. I pulled spark plug wire 2 just to see if it was only firing on one side and it did bog a little, so I thought it was just maybe under firing. I replaced that and pulled plug wire 1 and it died. I was not able to start it since.

I spot cleaned the carb and put it back together and still nothing. It appears it is getting fuel and I thought possibly too much based on the plugs. They seem to be moist with fuel. Also I took apart the fuel pump and that appears to be good. I just took the carb back off and was going to soak clean it and dismantle it all together.

I am wondering if when I sanded the points and put the flywheel back on if I messed up the timing. I marked it so when I put it back I was hoiping it would align back up. If it is the timing then I do not know how to go about that. To be honest I am not sure as to what direction to go now... Any suggestions?

Also know that I am no mechanic, I am however mechanically inclined. I am also new to sleds and sledding all together so please be patient with me

... thanks guys...

SB49 · 01-16-2013, 06:16 AM

Have you checked the compression?
How about new plugs did you put some new ones in?
Will it run for a minute if you spray premix in the carb?
Sounds like it is flooding clean that carb good.

**RJ Gleason** · 01-16-2013, 07:07 AM

You flooded it.
Pull the plugs and hold throttle wide open and pull till no more most comes out of the holes.
Put dry plugs in and it should start up again.

witmeraa · 01-16-2013, 11:45 AM

It does have new plugs. Nothing comes out of the holes when pulling the pull starter. Compression is good. It will not start even for a moment when using starting fluid. I just bought new plugs for the second time and replacing all fuel lines. I am also soaking the dismantled carb at the moment. When putting the carb back together where should I start with the fuel and air adjustments. I heard for the fuel it should be a split three.

At this point would you rule out the timing as being an issue? I did have the flywheel off working the points. It did run after the fact, I just thought it might have been off by the way it was spluttering when it was running, like as if the timing was off... If it was way off it would not start, am I correct in my thinking?

Thanks guys...

**RJ Gleason** · 01-16-2013, 11:55 AM

Unless you moved the stator plate, the only way it can be off is if the key in the flywheel fell out when you reinstalled it.

curtludwig · 01-16-2013, 12:08 PM

If it won't run even for a second on starter fluid even with new plugs then its not a fuel issue. Don't change any adjustments on the carb if it ran well before.

Also you don't sand points, you file them. Sanding leaves grit on the points which ruins them. This is a 503 engine? Is there still spark? You seemed to indicate that was iffy and then went off on the carb.

I'd say its time for a trip back to the points, clean 'em really really really well with contact cleaner and copier paper (or a business card, something that doesn't make lint) until you have 100% reliable spark and can make it run squirting gas (not starting fluid, theres no oil in starting fluid!) into the carb theres no point troubleshooting anything else.

witmeraa · 01-16-2013, 08:39 PM

The reason I adjusted the carb in the first place was because it was spluttering and yes, I read after the fact about not sanding the points. Thank you for that, I will not sand points again. This is the Rotax 503 engine. There was still spark. The reason I jumped from the timing to the carb was because I was not sure what direction between the two to go.

I had the carb apart so I just cleaned it real wall and reasembled it. Changed all the fuel lines and cleaned the fuel filter inside the tank. After all of this I gave her a crank and she fired right up. I was out running it today and seems to be running fine.

I pulled the spark plug after riding it for a little while and it was a chocolate brown, instead of black or even the clouded white. I was told the chocolate brown means it is burning just right. Not sure if that is true or not. I do need to track down a tac and speedo for the 1980 Everest.

Thanks you guys for your time...

**RJ Gleason** · 01-17-2013, 07:23 AM

That is correct, chocolate or tan is the color you are looking for.

witmeraa · 01-17-2013, 11:45 PM

Well I am back at it again. Flooding is still an issue. The reason the last trip worked was the new set of plugs. I tried to get it started this morning and it would not go. Finally realizing the plugs were fouled. I put in another new set of plugs and fired first pull. They are still getting wet though. I am assured that the float and pilot jet are working correctly. The throttle piston adjustment screw appears to be within range. I adjusted the jet needle down one, which is the last position. Which didn't do anything that I noticed. In searching the net I saw others with this issue and they at times fixed the like symptoms by changing out the jet needle and main jet.

Does that seem like a reasonable direction to go, and if so where can I find the factory spec for these items on the Mikuni carb for this Ski Doo 1980 Everest?

**RJ Gleason** · 01-18-2013, 12:00 AM

Primer or choke on the carbs?

witmeraa · 01-18-2013, 12:30 AM

It is a single carb with a primer.

**RJ Gleason** · 01-18-2013, 12:35 AM

A simple test;
Start it up and then crimp off the primer line and see if that has any effect.
This will tell you if the problem is a leaking primer which is often the case, especially on an older sled and one that has sat for some time without being run.

curtludwig · 01-18-2013, 07:54 AM

Quote:

Does that seem like a reasonable direction to go, and if so where can I find the factory spec for these items on the Mikuni carb for this Ski Doo 1980 Everest?

Factory spec has very little to do with what will work best on your sled now. RJ has good advice, start with the primer. I don't think jetting would make it flood, I think a sticky float (or one that doesn't float which I've seen in a Mikuni carb before) is probably the answer. Could be iffy spark too

witmeraa · 01-18-2013, 10:00 AM

I did see others talk about the primers often being the culprit. I have clear fuel lines and I have been keeping an eye on that. There is about four inches of air before the fuel enters the primer, I have only seen it enter when I actually prime it. Also I believe it is comming from the jet niddle because when I take the throttle piston out it has a little puddle of fuel on the top of it where the spring and cable attach, on top as if it was squrtting out. If you still would like me to pinch off the prime line I will but like I said I have been keeping an eye on that.

Thank you...

**RJ Gleason** · 01-18-2013, 11:13 AM

Try it just to rule it out, we need to do tests one step at a time to find the real problem.
If the prime is not the problem, I would next take the floats out and do a pan test to see that they do actually float and properly too.

curtludwig · 01-18-2013, 12:00 PM

+1, RJ is exactly right, you have to troubleshoot every step. I had a float not long ago that was cracked right at the pin which would fill with gas and sink. The other float by itself didn't have enough lift to do its job all by itself.
IIRC I found the problem by pushing the float into a cup of water with a stick. By itself it would just bob on top of the water all day but when I forced it under it would fill up and sink.

witmeraa · 01-18-2013, 02:14 PM

I checked the floats and they worked like a charm. I placed them on a narrow stick so it would slide and filled up a glass bowl with water and they came up with the water level. I pushed them all they way down a few times and watched them respond when letting go. Also while I had the carb apart I realized that when I cleaned it I took out the valve seat needle assembly but didn't at the time realize that this can come apart further. From what I read, this is what feeds fuel when it is at idle and up to 1/8 throttle.

When I reinstalled the carb again I hooked it all up and gave it a pull and it started right up. I then clamped the prime fuel line and ran it for a pit with some reving. I turned it off and pulled the plugs and there was no fuel on the plugs. I then removed the clamp from the primer line and let it idle for a bit along with some revs. I then turned it off and checked plugs again and still no fuel on them.

I opened it up around the block a few times (rain the best it has ever) and then pulled the plugs after the fact and noticed that plug one was the clouded white (lien) and two just had a very small oil mark on it. I moved the jet needle back to the second mark where it was originally to take care of the lean on plug one and for plug two I heard that some gap them a little tighter than the .028 to take care this such situation.

I think the cleaning of the valve seat assembly was the fix. What are your thoughts? Also is there a power band on these rotex engines? When I opened it up I thought I noticed power band kick in.

witmeraa · 01-18-2013, 07:48 PM

With these adjustments I made it worked great and both plugs are showing tan or light brown. I guess i am moving on to the John Deere Johnson jx 440 next and get that going. I am sure i will need some help there.

Thanks for helping me track this one down...

curtludwig · 01-18-2013, 09:17 PM

Sounds like you had a little dirt on the needle which was allowing way more gas than you needed into the bowl regardless of the position of the floats. Good job finding it!

witmeraa · 01-18-2013, 10:02 PM

Ya man, thanks again for you and RJ's know how. I see you alls posts all over this forum and found helpful info on other threads you both were involved in. Between the two of you there is a lot of time spent on here helping others, so props to you all and this great forum!