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Old 01-06-2013, 11:37 AM   #41 (permalink)
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With dyno proof too in the article!
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'93 Wildcat 700EFI
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'90 Wildcat Project in progress.

Vintage (sorta)
1980 Indy Trail 440 (for sale)
1980 AC Pantera (donor engine to the 90 wildcat)


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Old 01-06-2013, 11:41 AM   #42 (permalink)
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Of them running a air box or pods or no filters? No filters will out dyno a air box or pods any days. We will throw pods on our sled of its really dusty or lots of snow dust. But a air box makes the best power on the trail as it provides cool air. But modifying it will not hurt performance and the air box does not help with fuel mixture or anything else


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Old 01-06-2013, 11:42 AM   #43 (permalink)
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You need a shop vac to vac that mess out!
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Old 01-06-2013, 02:06 PM   #44 (permalink)
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Whats a pod? lol I ended up opening up my air box (with some minor persuasion) and cleaned it out. I plan on using it.

It also warmed up above freezing today (its actually slightly raining) so I was able to get the rest of the mouse nest out. Ill post some pics later.
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Old 01-06-2013, 04:39 PM   #45 (permalink)
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I ended up "modifying" my air box....but only to get it open lol, I cut off all the tabs to open it up:





It actually wasn't as bad as I thought it would be. But I still washed it with Dawn dish detergent and a scrub pad, then rinsed and dried:


I forgot to take a pic of it, but the rubber grommet on the air box is cracked too, Probably just going to tape it up with electrical tape.
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Old 01-06-2013, 04:49 PM   #46 (permalink)
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Then I scraped off all the frozen/melting debris from inside the track:






Unfortunately, after looking at the track, I would say it looks pretty deteriorated. Plus even with the temp above freezing, I couldn't compress the rear shocks (they must be seized)? and I am also unsure of what that busted strap is for/ should be connected too? and the middle set of rubber wheels spin freely (one more then the other).
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Old 01-06-2013, 04:53 PM   #47 (permalink)
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hen I finally got to the engine bay, and no, I didn't use a shop vac lol.






It helped that it was raining to wipe all the grease off the wires
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Old 01-06-2013, 04:58 PM   #48 (permalink)
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Mouse nest is no more (still kinda dirty though (yes, im a neat freak)):


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Old 01-06-2013, 05:05 PM   #49 (permalink)
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and another question: Anybody know what this thing is? kind of hard to see with it covered in dirt:


Im wondering if its a ballast for the lights? It has what looks like a ground wire bolted to it, then 2 wires coming out of the side connecting to the wire harness which seems to lead to the lights?
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Old 01-06-2013, 06:59 PM   #50 (permalink)
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Not a ballast, it's the voltage regulator.
The strap at the front of the skid is the limiter, it prevents the rails from dropping to far when the suspension is at full extension and also can be used to increase ski pressure by shortening slightly.

The shock are most likely frozen due to water getting in them. You will have to replace them.
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'93 Wildcat 700EFI
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'90 Wildcat Project in progress.

Vintage (sorta)
1980 Indy Trail 440 (for sale)
1980 AC Pantera (donor engine to the 90 wildcat)


http://www.dcdrifters.net/


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http://www.masonicdryden472.org/

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Old 01-06-2013, 07:00 PM   #51 (permalink)
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Hard to tell by pic but it should be voltage regulator


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Old 01-06-2013, 07:58 PM   #52 (permalink)
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OK, thanks, I was just curious. and yea, I figured I would have to replace them, although may have found some replacements already.

Heres the tear in the grommet in my air box:


Then I started to patch the carb drain plug:



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Old 01-06-2013, 11:02 PM   #53 (permalink)
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For that rubber connector, some super glue will fix that right up.
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Old Cat Rider
'93 Wildcat 700EFI
w/ Comet 108 Pro-4 clutch & 01 ZR skid

'90 Wildcat Project in progress.

Vintage (sorta)
1980 Indy Trail 440 (for sale)
1980 AC Pantera (donor engine to the 90 wildcat)


http://www.dcdrifters.net/


Senior Warden; F&AM Dryden Lodge# 472
http://www.masonicdryden472.org/

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Old 01-07-2013, 06:55 AM   #54 (permalink)
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It's so much easier to work on a clean sled.

How is the carb coming?
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Old 01-07-2013, 10:20 AM   #55 (permalink)
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The carb is being a bit stubborn at the moment. I cant get the pin out to get access to the jet. I tried needle nose pliers, lubricating it in carb cleaner then pulling with needle nose pliers, then finally I tried tapping it with a small nail and hammer (gently) but it would not budge.

I am wondering if I could use some penetrating oil (PB Blaster) to loosen the pin, or would that not be a good idea?




Any ideas?
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Old 01-07-2013, 10:57 AM   #56 (permalink)
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I went ahead and applied PB Blaster to the pin and let it soak for a bit, then tried the pliers and tapping it out, but it still wont move.
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Old 01-07-2013, 11:08 AM   #57 (permalink)
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Put it in a dish and spray it and let it soak for a hour.
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Old 01-07-2013, 11:21 AM   #58 (permalink)
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Its still soaking from the last application. Did some research and I guess it would help if I had a spring loaded center punch. I might buy one today if its cheap enough. I also have to be careful not to break the posts, so no more hammering lol
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Old 01-07-2013, 02:52 PM   #59 (permalink)
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Got a pair of side cutters?
Use them to get behind the shoulder of the pin and apply pressure while gently working om the other end with a punch.

This will require an extra set of hands.
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Old Cat Rider
'93 Wildcat 700EFI
w/ Comet 108 Pro-4 clutch & 01 ZR skid

'90 Wildcat Project in progress.

Vintage (sorta)
1980 Indy Trail 440 (for sale)
1980 AC Pantera (donor engine to the 90 wildcat)


http://www.dcdrifters.net/


Senior Warden; F&AM Dryden Lodge# 472
http://www.masonicdryden472.org/

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Old 01-08-2013, 10:50 AM   #60 (permalink)
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No side cutters or anything thats thin enough to get behind the pin head. I picked up an auto center punch and tried that, but still wont budge, so I soaked it again in PB Blaster, then Ill try what you said (using both pliers and the punch) and hope for the best.
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