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Old 12-19-2012, 04:22 AM   #41 (permalink)
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to be honest, I have no idea or remember what brand it was.....it was a Canadian Tire find when I went in looking for switches it was on the bottom of the shelf and no other similar ones were around so I guess someone went to buy that one then found a cheaper one in the aisle i was in and left it behind. If I stumble across them the next time I'm in, I'll take some pics and get part #'s.....does anybody know where I can get replacement kill and dimmer switches? I've been looking around and no one seems to have anything for my sled....they have 81 and 82-83 ones but they don't look like the push button switches I had...they were more a rotating switch (turns with a little lever up or down to switch beams or open or close the circuit)
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Old 12-19-2012, 05:51 AM   #42 (permalink)
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Got a couple more questions guys....

My tach doesn't seem to be working properly so I'm not sure if I'm running at 2000rpm....it seems to want to move when I rev it, but then it drops down to about 1500 and comes back up to 2000....but when I hit it (with the track off the ground) it doesn't seem to climb very high or at all.....Can I use any tach to swap out or do I have to track down an Everest/Ski-Doo specific tach? I think I had it at 2000 rpm because I had to adjust the oil injector system and I didn't want to run it lean if the injection system is in fact working....any ideas would be greatly appreciated
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Old 12-19-2012, 07:30 AM   #43 (permalink)
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As long as it is a 2 pulse tach and will fit into the opening, it will work.
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Old 12-20-2012, 05:17 PM   #44 (permalink)
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Anybody know where I could get my hands on the Elbow Connector for the speedo? I've got the cable but don't seem to have that connector to hook the speedo up. Thanks
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Old 12-21-2012, 05:06 AM   #45 (permalink)
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Any of the online retailers will have it.
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'93 Wildcat 700EFI
w/ Comet 108 Pro-4 clutch & 01 ZR skid

'90 Wildcat Project in progress.

Vintage (sorta)
1980 Indy Trail 440 (for sale)
1980 AC Pantera (donor engine to the 90 wildcat)


http://www.dcdrifters.net/


Senior Warden; F&AM Dryden Lodge# 472
http://www.masonicdryden472.org/

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Old 12-28-2012, 03:21 AM   #46 (permalink)
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do any of you guys have any tips to test a tach? Mine's still wonky and before I dole out hard earned dollars for a new one, I'd like to test and make sure mine is totally pooched...even if there's a way to take it apart and give it a cleaning that would be awesome too as it just seems to stick cuz if you tap it it'll drop back down or move back up...and is there anyway to disassemble the gauges to clean the faces? My speedo gauge face is really cloudy and I'd like to clean it up. Thanks again for the help....My primer plunger came in today and i'm just waiting on my parts from Nick and my handle grip warmers to come in....hopefully that'll all be in before february....got some snow out here over the holidays so i wanna go have a little bit of fun
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Old 12-28-2012, 03:57 AM   #47 (permalink)
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If it has a metal ring on the bezel, you can remove that and clean the glass.
As far as the tach goes, check that it has a good ground either by wire or through it's body.
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Old Cat Rider
'93 Wildcat 700EFI
w/ Comet 108 Pro-4 clutch & 01 ZR skid

'90 Wildcat Project in progress.

Vintage (sorta)
1980 Indy Trail 440 (for sale)
1980 AC Pantera (donor engine to the 90 wildcat)


http://www.dcdrifters.net/


Senior Warden; F&AM Dryden Lodge# 472
http://www.masonicdryden472.org/

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Old 12-28-2012, 07:02 AM   #48 (permalink)
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awesome!!! Is there any wiring diagrams for the tach wiring? that would help immensely
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Old 12-28-2012, 11:51 AM   #49 (permalink)
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I would assume those should be there soon, they hit the US customs on the 15th according to the tracking!

I fought with my factory tach for weeks before I trew up my arms and installed a standard Autometer 2 5/8" tach. Its set for 4 cylinders, and gets its trigger signal off my Gen side point to coil connection. You just have to remember to multiply the reading by 4 to get the actual RPMs. (I.E. a reading of 500rpm is actually 2000rpm) Kinda Ghetto, but it works. After all, the only thing I really need it for is tuning

Best part: It was only $24!

-Nick
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Old 12-28-2012, 12:07 PM   #50 (permalink)
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Unfortunately, this is the only diagram I have for the Everest LC, hope it helps!

You'll have to download it to zoom in, I'm having issues with my scanner...
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Bringing a 1980 Everest 464 L/C Electro to life-everest-lc-elec.jpg  
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Old 12-31-2012, 05:23 PM   #51 (permalink)
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yeah...thats the same diagram I have from the shop and owner's manuals....oh well...i ordered one of those digital dealies from ebay for 25 bucks that just wraps around a plug wire......but on a good note....Nick's parts arrived yesterday!!!....so I got the brake light assembly installed....



works great!!...then I went to move onto the new fuel sight plug.....got the old one out and replaced it.....however....I went to go and take the hose off the bottom one and I BROKE THE DAMN THING!!! So..... instead of having to track down another plug I chose another route.....Off to the hardware store I went and picked up a couple of 1/2" Threaded brass fittings with 1/4" barbed ends on it to plug the fuel lines in....teflon taped up the threads and they threaded into the openings where the plugs would go....but to make sure they sealed up....I got some Epoxy and put that around to seal it up both plugs...it cured up...I put some gas in and no leaks and I have a fuel sight....so here's some pics of how I came up with this little trick....

the epoxy putty I used


The fuel sight setup....






cont'd
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Old 12-31-2012, 05:23 PM   #52 (permalink)
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and it even gives a fairly decent reading


So after all that I decided to see why my track was hanging so low...turns out the bar in the front of the suspension that the rubber belt attaches to had snapped off the suspension....so I dropped the sled and slid it back up just to see if my track would have proper tension and sure enough it did....so I guess I gotta get it back in place and weld it back up...but here's some pics of what broke....



and here's where it broke off


Also...I got my handle grip warmers today!!! So I can't wait to get those hooked up....The 'Ski-WOOOO' is totally coming together!!!
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Old 01-01-2013, 11:26 AM   #53 (permalink)
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Nice!

Looks like she's coming together well!
I sent you an email as well, but I do have all the parts you asked for in your last email (speedo cable, elbow, kill swx & hi/low swx) All in good working order. Just let me know if you still need them.

We'll get you scooting along yet!

-Nick
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Old 01-01-2013, 12:39 PM   #54 (permalink)
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Here's a pic of the parts.
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Old 01-01-2013, 06:19 PM   #55 (permalink)
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Nick...you have mail
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Old 01-02-2013, 07:10 AM   #56 (permalink)
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Quick question guys....sitting on the sled facing the front, which piston is the PTO and which side is MAG? I wanna say PTO is left side (primary clutch side) and MAG is right side (battery/coolant tank side). I checked my plugs the other day and it seemed that the one on the 'PTO' side seemed fairly clean and the 'MAG' one looked like it was burning properly. Any ideas? I'll take some pics of them today and post as well as some video of the way it smokes....hopefully everything is okay....really don't want to burn up the engine before I have some serious fun!! Thanks again and Happy New Year
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Old 01-02-2013, 07:22 AM   #57 (permalink)
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PTO stands for Power Take-Off. It is literally where the power from the motor is "taken off" and transferred to another component. In this case, that other component is the clutch. So, you have it correct.

If one of the plugs is overly clean, it could indicate a lean condition for that cylinder and you would want to look at things like the crank seals.
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Old 01-02-2013, 11:21 AM   #58 (permalink)
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Smokes? HA!
If I am tuning my sled in my main shop (~1400 sq/ft) it only takes a a few minutes to fog the whole place Of course, I am also running a little extra 2-stroke oil since the rings are new and still have less than 80 miles on them.

It's not like I'm fogging for mosquitos while I'm out running it, but stationary indoors she makes a little bit of a blue cloud.

-Nick
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Old 01-02-2013, 01:49 PM   #59 (permalink)
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Plugs will often look that way, especially on a single carb engine.
It may also be due to the face that the one cylinder is running with a slightly weaker spark.
One thing to do is check the plug gaps and set them slightly smaller than recommended.
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Old Cat Rider
'93 Wildcat 700EFI
w/ Comet 108 Pro-4 clutch & 01 ZR skid

'90 Wildcat Project in progress.

Vintage (sorta)
1980 Indy Trail 440 (for sale)
1980 AC Pantera (donor engine to the 90 wildcat)


http://www.dcdrifters.net/


Senior Warden; F&AM Dryden Lodge# 472
http://www.masonicdryden472.org/

Rules of this forum are strictly enforced!
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Old 01-02-2013, 02:46 PM   #60 (permalink)
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^+1!! I agree with RJG.
I see this all the time on both 4 & 8 cyl. race engines where we run EGT sensors. You would be amazed how much combustion chamber and exhaust temps change with plug gap! I actually run a slightly smaller gap on my PTO plug.

Of course, keep this in mind: I build race car engines for a living, so I have a spare exhaust manifold for my sled that is modified with EGT sensors so I can tune this engine to the last little pony. (Not to mention using old-school "color tune" plugs which allow you to see the "color" of the combustion in each chamber while tuning) I'm sure alot of people will laugh, But that's what I do

I have built race engines in cars that have qualified last (due to suspension issues in qualifying) out of 30 cars only to make their way upto 2nd place at the finish!

I can tell you this: You may have the best built engine in the world, but if it isn't tuned right... it either wont perform, or it will go "BOOM". Finding the happy middle point isn't easy, but is well worth it.

-Nick
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Last edited by 80lectro; 01-02-2013 at 02:57 PM.
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