UncleFluffy

Well I made some more progress today.....pulled the carb off again and low and behold....crap in the pilot jet....grrrrr....flossed it out with a pin and all was clear....so I decided with everything apart, I'd replace the fuel line with proper rubber fuel line and installed an in-line filter and drained all the gas/oil mix I had in the tank because I realized that I was running the wrong kind of oil in it...chainsaw/weed-eater stuff instead of the outboard oil (TWC3)....bought some of that today so I can top up the reservoir....I noticed there are 2 reservoirs....1 that goes to the oil injection system (big one on top of the air box) and a smaller one that appears to go right into the block (above and to the right of the carb if sitting on sled) do they both need to be filled or does the big tank feed the other one?

So I have had no luck tracking down a keyswitch so I got creative....after studying the wiring diagrams for a couple of hours...I decided I would tie into the power wires so I could get my lights working....and instead of cutting of the harness for the key switch, I just plugged into the correct plugs on there...rigged up a toggle switch, turned it on and fired up the sled....still no lights....pulled the light switch (to turn them on....duh on my part) still no light....hit the dimmer switch on the handle bars and voila....lights!!!....now here's the funny part.....i hit the toggle switch off to test it and the lights stayed on....so testing my theory even further....i pulled the wires i had plugged into the harness and the lights stayed on....so I think I just have a burned out filament in the headlight (low or high beam).....so essentially....the key switch appears to only be needed if you want to use the electric start....which i did try to get going to but my battery is stone dead (3+ years of sitting does that lol) and my battery charger with booster doesn't seem to work.....any way of testing the starter without pulling it from the sled? And with the plus side that I don't have a kill switch any more on the handle bars I did run the toggle switch to the kill switch leads on the key switch harness and have a kill switch now....it's even one of those kewl ones you see with the safety cover that you have to flip up first ....anyways....tomorrow is hook the carb and fuel lines back up....put fresh gas in and see if I can't have a little fun....(guess I should've mentioned I did all the electrical stuff BEFORE I tore the carb and fuel lines out...heheh) more updates later

RJ Gleason

Ok, the little bottle is just a reservoir for the rotary valve and should not need refilling [except rarely] unless there is a seal leak ot the valve shaft.

You can test the starter by connecting directly to the terminals on the housing with the battery charger.

__________________
Old Cat Rider
'93 Wildcat 700EFI
w/ Comet 108 Pro-4 clutch & 01 ZR skid

'90 Wildcat Project in progress.

Vintage (sorta)
1980 Indy Trail 440 (for sale)
1980 AC Pantera (donor engine to the 90 wildcat)


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UncleFluffy

Thanks for the tips Maybe I'll wheel the truck to the back yard and use the jumper cables and try that....not overly concerned if it doesn't work....gotta fix the pull start though as the rope is starting to fray about 6 inches past the handle so i don't want to pull it too many more times before I snap it and have to pull the recoil off and fix that lol...figure I'll just try to feed the knot out of the handle and pull it past the fray and tie it back in....got a couple inches of snow yesterday and expecting a few more today so I'm gonna put the carb back together and get everything hooked up and go have a little bit of fun in the open lot next door

UncleFluffy

So I got the fuel lines with new filter and the carb installed and it fired right up (after about 30 pulls of course) and is running great...but it's smoking like crazy....might still be some of the 20:1 chainsaw oil mixed fuel that was still in the tank...is there a way to test the oil injection system? I think it works, but I'd hate to melt the engine. Other than that it's coming together...I may have to weld something on the suspension as I noticed a crack on one of the bars....I'll take some pics and post them and hopefully you guys can help me out. Gotta say I am certainly having fun playing with this thing

RJ Gleason

Mark the side of the oil tank and check it after running the sled for a while. you should see the level drop a bit.

__________________
Old Cat Rider
'93 Wildcat 700EFI
w/ Comet 108 Pro-4 clutch & 01 ZR skid

'90 Wildcat Project in progress.

Vintage (sorta)
1980 Indy Trail 440 (for sale)
1980 AC Pantera (donor engine to the 90 wildcat)


http://www.dcdrifters.net/


Senior Warden; F&AM Dryden Lodge# 472
http://www.masonicdryden472.org/

Rules of this forum are strictly enforced!

UncleFluffy

so I tinkered around today and wired up a horn button as a starter button. I boosted the thing with my car to try out the starter....only problem is it turned over very slowly....like a dead battery....went out and picked up a 176 cca battery because it was cheap...hooked it up and it did the same thing as when I boosted it with the car.... Thinking maybe i need to clean the contacts.....can't see why it would turn over so slow....even tried pull starting it and letting it run and warm up a bit then tried the electric start.....no dice....any ideas?

meburdick

Definitely sounds like you have a bad connection somewhere. Check everything from the ring of the positive battery wire all the way to the starter motor then check the entire ground pathway back.

It's possible that the starter motor itself has internal corrosion and is not allowing the current to flow through it efficiently. Also ... I would expect that your pushbutton should be controlling a relay and not wired directly in-line from battery terminal to starter motor. I don't believe it can handle the current required by the motor.

__________________
2002 Edge X 500: https://plus.google.com/photos/11364...45853579342449
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RJ Gleason

You might want to take the starter motor off and test it.

__________________
Old Cat Rider
'93 Wildcat 700EFI
w/ Comet 108 Pro-4 clutch & 01 ZR skid

'90 Wildcat Project in progress.

Vintage (sorta)
1980 Indy Trail 440 (for sale)
1980 AC Pantera (donor engine to the 90 wildcat)


http://www.dcdrifters.net/


Senior Warden; F&AM Dryden Lodge# 472
http://www.masonicdryden472.org/

Rules of this forum are strictly enforced!

UncleFluffy

actually the push button is plugged into the key switch harness...not directly wired in....but maybe i'll pull the starter and see if I can't figure this out....even boosting it from the car, it should've fired no problem.....i'll get it sorted out....got that and the primer plunger to fix...found a great how-to on how to pull it apart and replace the o-ring....it's coming along....can't wait for it to be all good to go!!!

UncleFluffy

I will also look into wiring it thru a relay if all my other options don't pan out.....waiting on my new primer plunger as I busted mine last night trying to take it apart.....oh well...$20 bucks shipped for a nice new one and new hoses so no big worries there....

UncleFluffy

Hey All....

So I pulled the starter and tested it....seems to spin just fine...tested the clutch and it kicks out fine tested the motor and it spins really good so I'm not sure what the deal is. Any ideas to test it again? I'm gonna try re-installing it and see if it spins...I had it in the house the last few days and i soaked it in WD-40 so maybe that cleaned it up and fixed it...don't really wanna tear it apart because I've never rebuilt a starter and I figure if I can re-install it and it works....great....if it doesn't then i'll pull it again and look into the rebuild....but things are slowly coming together....just waiting on my new primer plunger from ebay and my tail light assembly and fuel tank sight from Nick to get here and I should be that much closer to getting this thing finished enough for fun times

meburdick

Unless you were testing the starter under load, you may not have gotten a true result of its ability to perform.

I'm not entirely sure of whether or not this would be something you'd want to attempt, but I would try and come up with a way to completely isolate the starter electrically and connect the battery directly to it (maybe via jumper cables to ensure that it will delivery the required power) when it's in the sled. That way, you will know whether or not the combo of battery and starter is able to actually crank the motor or not.

Have you load tested the battery to make sure that it's good? I realize you just bought it, but that doesn't mean it doesn't have a dead cell.

__________________
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UncleFluffy

yeah that's what I was going to try....i'm gonna put it back in the sled and rig up some wires directly to the starter and jump it from there....as for load testing the battery, no I haven't done that....i guess its because I don't know how to...any help there would be appreciated....figure its only a few degrees below 0 (celcius) right now so I'm gonna go out and re-install the starter while I can work without my hands freezing off and see if I can't get it fire....I'd love to have the electric start but it's not overly a big deal as it pull starts fairly easily and once the primer comes in....it'll fire 1st pull....but i'll try it out and if anyone can explain how to load test the battery without me having to take it in somewhere, i'll try that too Thanks again

meburdick

A load test will essentially put a strong draw on the battery for a specific period of time and then verify the amount of voltage loss from the battery. What's the standing voltage of the battery when it's fully charged? Have you done a voltage test on each of the individual cells to ensure that they're all roughly the same voltage?

__________________
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UncleFluffy

so I bolted the starter back up and tested and voila!!! turned over!!! Guess it just needed to come inside and soak up the WD-40 a bit....so for your enjoyment....

meburdick

Very cool. I suspect that you have some corrosion internally in the starter motor and the WD helped to alleviate the loss of current flow. Chances are, the issue will come back, and it might be a good offseason project to rebuild the starter motor or have it rebuilt (assuming that's cheaper than replacing it).

__________________
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UncleFluffy

yeah...that's my plan....I really can't use it too much out here in Calgary because I live in the City and I don't exactly have it registered....my real plan is to take it back to MB and have some fun with it out at the In-Laws with the wife and then come spring I'm gonna do whatever work is needed....i'm just glad the starter works for now

Kemo

I love the protected toggle for the on/off. That's awesome!

UncleFluffy

Yeah I thought so too....I had it rigged up as a kill switch...but when I realized the way I had it originally wired up...it was needed so that my brake light would work....plus I love flipping the cover up and then pushing the button....heheheh .....gonna try and get my hands on a proper kill switch though...the door bell i have rigged up now doesn't really cut it....and I need to get a new dimmer switch as well as it doesn't want to engage the high beam and just cuts out....but I think that may just be a burnt out element in the bulb although it didn't appear to be when I inspected it....also need to adjust the brake switch so that the light lights up correctly because it looks like when i squeeze the brakes it's not pulling back far enough to open the circuit for the brake light...oh well...fun stuff to play with

Kemo

Is that toggle and guard by Arcolectric?