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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 11-04-2012, 01:15 AM Thread Starter
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How do I get this off?

Is this just to be pulled off, or unscrewed?

Also, didn't know there where 2 screws hidden and when I started pounding the case apart I broke a part of the case off where there was one of the screws. Is this fixable? Fix with a good weld?
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 11-04-2012, 04:49 AM
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Tor remove the flywheel, you need a puller tool.
For that one, an harmonic balancer puller will do the job.

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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 11-04-2012, 10:06 AM
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Or a steering wheel puller...

Or a flat thick piece of bar stock with two holes drilled in it, two grade 8 bolts, and then thread the bolts into the hole with the bar stock against the crank and tighten.

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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 11-04-2012, 09:03 PM
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Thumbs up

Get the Starting Line (SLP) heavy duty univeral fly wheel puller from Dennis Kirk part #28-3263. I attempted to pull one using a lighter duty one and had nothing but problems. Ordered one from Dennis Kirk (cheapest price thjat I could find) and it's a great tool.
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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 11-05-2012, 01:15 PM Thread Starter
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Yeah, I used a HF harmonic balancer and it did nothing. Although I believe the screws I used stripped and the only thing that was budging where the washers supporting the screws getting bent to heck. I was using an impact wrench too. I definitely need better bolts.

I'll check out that SLP Puller.

I was a little afraid the threads in the fly wheel wouldn't be able to handle the force of the pull.

Totally bummed I broke that piece off too. Hopefully that is a separate part that can be replaced. Have to check out the parts diagram...
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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 11-10-2012, 12:04 AM Thread Starter
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Wow, I just tried again with my HF puller and a craftsman impact gun. Nothing, that thing did not budge. I did successfully break a bolt off in it, though... Have to get that out now. I am just surprised how that thing does not move at all.

steepndeep, with your lighter duty one, what were the issues you had?
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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 11-10-2012, 01:27 PM
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Give it a shot of penetrating oil, apply pressure and let sit.
Take up tension and give the puller bolt a whack with a heavy hammer.
Repeat as needed.

Old Cat Rider
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w/ Comet 108 Pro-4 clutch & 01 ZR skid

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1980 Indy Trail 440 (for sale)
1980 AC Pantera (donor engine to the 90 wildcat)


http://www.dcdrifters.net/


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http://www.masonicdryden472.org/

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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 11-10-2012, 03:49 PM
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I had trouble with the flywheel puller bots breaking too, I replaced them with the bolts off the thermostat manifold from a '96 550 cougar and they work great. They are strong and have a good wide head so they don't slip around. I've removed 5 or 6 flywheels using this method and haven't broken a bolt yet. I also broke the center bolt (large one) on the puller and replaced with a stronger one from the hardware store. I ground the end to a point to it sits in the hole in the end of the crankshaft without moving. Get everything good and tight and hit the end of the center bolt with a hammer. I have always removed flywheels with the motor still in the sled so it is more stable. You might have some problems in your case when working with only the crank shaft, maybe put it in a vice while you try to remove it.
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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 11-19-2012, 01:03 AM
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Get a master bolt-grip puller set. It has all the correct bolts for almost all apps. Use all 3 holes in flywheel and put it on and put tension on center bolt, spray PB blaster on crank, let sit a few rap center bolt with a hammer few times, continue doing this for a while while putting more presure on bolt. It'll pop right off(with a loud noise) I got my puller set from Matco tools.
Later... vic
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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 11-21-2012, 01:27 PM
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i have been using the cheapest puller on the market i'm pretty sure i got from wal mart or canadian tire. i have been even using it on my inboard motor on my boat. if all things are normal the cheapest will pull the flywheel off but reading the posts the flywheel is seized, not a normal situation so other matters need to be done yes you get a heavier puller but i think your risking damaging the flywheel RJ Gleason had the best advice i would follow this first it will come off patience goes a long way GOOD LUCK!
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post #11 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-09-2012, 01:10 AM
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The problem that I had with the light duty puller was that it flexed. I spoke with a friend who was a Polaris Dealer for many years and he said that when he had a real stubborn one that he would run the bolts up tight in his warm shop and then stick it outside on a -20 degree night and the fly wheel would be laying in the belly pan the next morning. Make sure if you start using a hammer that you don't hit the fly wheel. I learned that the hard way and broke the magnets. SLP makes one they call a maximum duty (Polaris bolt pattern only) that is probably 2 1/2" thick (no flex at all).
From your pictures it appears that you have broken the stator plate.
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