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Old 10-21-2012, 08:50 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Resurrecting 1980 Everest 500..help pls!

I'm trying to resurrect a 1980(?)Everest 500 electro and have a couple of questions.
I heard that if the mfg date says it was made in June 1979, it
would be considered a 1980 model. Is this true? The main issue is the red
positive cable from the battery doesnt connect to anything. One small line
goes to a "fuse" or something, but the main line doesnt connect to a starter.
In fact the starter looks like its missing? Were these things able to be cranked
by starter and the pull cord? (The pull cord is missing to, but i think its in the
housing after the handle pulled off--i'm trying to get that off to check but one
of the bolts stripped I'm thinking the starter went out and they just started
cranking it manually, after removing the starter for some reason?
I appreciate any advice. I'm beginning to question whether this is a worthy
project after all. I got the sled for a song, but even the windshield is missing
and i'm sure thats not pleasant to be cruising around on below zero days w/o...
thanks, jim
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Old 10-21-2012, 09:04 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Hi Jim,

They had both electric and pull start. It sounds like the starter was indeed removed, as it would have been bolted to the front of the engine under the exhaust manifold. Get the pull start working so you can check compression first. That way you'll know if it's even worth fixing.
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Old 10-21-2012, 10:58 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Hi Jim,

They had both electric and pull start. It sounds like the starter was indeed removed, as it would have been bolted to the front of the engine under the exhaust manifold. Get the pull start working so you can check compression first. That way you'll know if it's even worth fixing.
thanks guy!
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Old 10-21-2012, 02:13 PM   #4 (permalink)
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You can use a length of rope or strap wrapped about 3 turns around the primary clutch to spin the engine to check compression. You can even start the engine that way in an emergency. Done it. It's a PITA but will give you some numbers to work from.
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Old 10-21-2012, 05:58 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Thanks Dan! The problem is this sled is at the MIL's farm so i only go down on the
weekends...I will try to get this stripped nut loose next week and try the compression
test. Have to pick up the pace since the bottom will fall out soon and it will be too
cold to get much done
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Old 11-03-2012, 10:27 PM   #6 (permalink)
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thought i'd give an update and post some pics. finally got the recoil starter assembly off (bottom nut was stripped!) and the primary clutch moves fine after i squirted some PB Blaster in the cylinders. now i will put the rope back on and check compression. hopefully when i put some fresh gas in her she'll fire up w/o having to do major carb work...wish me luck!
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Old 11-04-2012, 09:07 PM   #7 (permalink)
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I like to put an ounce or two of two stroke oil in the cylinders and pre-mix rich about 20:1 for a sled that hasn't been run in a while. Helps lube up all that dry stuff inside and has the side benefit of a dramatic return to life with all that blue smoke.
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Old 11-04-2012, 09:45 PM   #8 (permalink)
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I like to put an ounce or two of two stroke oil in the cylinders and pre-mix rich about 20:1 for a sled that hasn't been run in a while. Helps lube up all that dry stuff inside and has the side benefit of a dramatic return to life with all that blue smoke.
Thanks. Sounds like a great idea!
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Old 11-08-2012, 11:17 PM   #9 (permalink)
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hows the project going I had a 77 with all the same problems.
You need to check the clutches and lube and bearings on suspension and jack-shaft.
Also chaincase lube.
Now I have a 77 john deere cyclone 440. Its cleaning up quite well. This sled is the one my father bought new in 77. Just got the brakes working.
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Old 11-08-2012, 11:26 PM   #10 (permalink)
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had to make new msg or it times out.
Make sure you check for mice nests under engine shroud or air box, just follow you nose.
Mine had a mouse condo in engine shroud.
we should meet up and race some day...If I ever get this thing going..
vic
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Old 11-09-2012, 08:06 AM   #11 (permalink)
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hows the project going I had a 77 with all the same problems.
You need to check the clutches and lube and bearings on suspension and jack-shaft.
Also chaincase lube.
Now I have a 77 john deere cyclone 440. Its cleaning up quite well. This sled is the one my father bought new in 77. Just got the brakes working.
so far so good. i actually got my recoil starter off and in process of putting it back on...i'm having a hard time finding regular rope and afraid the nylon will
stretch or melt! heading down to farm to work on it some more later today and will have the whole weekend to get her going although we may get some rain...
i will check all those things you mention, but now just trying to get her cranked. dont no how everyone works on these heavy devils! thanks for inquiring about my project and hope yours keeps going well. not sure where in WI you are but i make it to LaCrosse quite often...jim
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Old 11-11-2012, 11:48 AM   #12 (permalink)
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well, i made good progress. got the recoil starter on and checked compression. good on
both cylinders (125). drained out old gas from tank and bowl of carb, and put in fresh with a bit of Seafoam. put new plugs in and gapped them correctly, and pulled and pulled but wouldnt fire up (btw, it has a great beefy sound and i know it will run like a scalded ape if i ever get it going!) pulled plugs and its getting fuel so checked the spark, with a buddy that know what he's doing...none! no spark at all. plug wires and connection to the coil look good. well, back to the drawing board...or forum boards
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Old 11-12-2012, 07:27 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Check that all the switches are in the run postion.
You can bypass them to test for spark by unplugging the main harness from the engine.
If you get spark then it's a matter of testing each switch to determine which is the problem.
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Old 11-12-2012, 03:18 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Check that all the switches are in the run postion.
You can bypass them to test for spark by unplugging the main harness from the engine.
If you get spark then it's a matter of testing each switch to determine which is the problem.
Thanks RJ! Will check all this next weekend. I'm also planning on moving sled to the barn where i can have slightly better working conditions. I plan on hoisting the ft up w/ a come along and then sliding a heavy sheet of plywood under it. Drill a big eyelet into the plywood and hook a chain from my truck and drag that baby on over. Probably easier said than done
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Old 11-12-2012, 05:16 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Swat it on the rear and maybe it will run into the barn on it's own
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Old 11-12-2012, 08:58 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Swat it on the rear and maybe it will run into the barn on it's own
i wish it were that easy
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Old 11-12-2012, 11:07 PM   #17 (permalink)
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hi

If my pics weren't so bad, it looks like the motor in mine. Is that a 38mm carb? Mine is a 34mm mak on a 440. If I remember right, the 9500 Blizzards were faster then the 500 Everest. Is yours like a 5500 Blizzard?
Keep up the posts, love the updates. I will post better pics soon. Don't be afraid to go through the carb. Not hard at all. Air box removal is the worst part I think. I used to have (30 years ago) a 72 ski-doo tnt 340 silver bullet. Mine now is the first one I had in probably 20 years...
later.
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Old 11-12-2012, 11:20 PM   #18 (permalink)
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pull start

sorry for posting again.
I need a new rope for pull starter and got some 1/4" braided rope from Ace hardware. I did not install it yet but it does look a little smaller then whats in it. If you buy rope from a hardware store, make sure its braided. It was like $1.60 for 8 ft but the rating is 46 pounds and for some reason this thing is so hard to pull. Maybe 3/8"?
I live near Milwaukee, actualy in Waukesha...........
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Old 11-13-2012, 09:05 AM   #19 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Viktory2k1 View Post
If my pics weren't so bad, it looks like the motor in mine. Is that a 38mm carb? Mine is a 34mm mak on a 440. If I remember right, the 9500 Blizzards were faster then the 500 Everest. Is yours like a 5500 Blizzard?
Keep up the posts, love the updates. I will post better pics soon. Don't be afraid to go through the carb. Not hard at all. Air box removal is the worst part I think. I used to have (30 years ago) a 72 ski-doo tnt 340 silver bullet. Mine now is the first one I had in probably 20 years...
later.
Vic
not sure about the Blizzard or the carb? i'm getting fuel so i think i dont have to do any carb work for now. its the spark that i'm not getting too bad your not closer, i could use a good sled mechanic for a friend right now
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Old 11-13-2012, 11:11 PM   #20 (permalink)
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hello Jim

check the continuity of the emergency stop button on throttle side of handlebar.
It must be open for spark. you can just unplug it for now, probably under hood where steering shaft goes through shroud around gas tank. I have a service manual so I will look and tell you.
Also, it may have had a tether switch which is missing. post some more pics of dash and under hood. I will chach my manual. Mine is just too hard to pull over. Nothing is seized and it runs but the colder it gets, the harder to pull. Took like 10 pulls today. Old gas very rich with oil I can tell. tons of smoke. I will post this to see if anyone has an idea. Just trailer that sled on over and we can fix them both. I have tools...
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