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1981 Arctic Cat Panther project

75K views 332 replies 21 participants last post by  vmaxluke 
#1 ·
Hi everyone. I just picked up a 1981 Panther for 50 bucks! I plan on bringing it back to original form. I bought the sled off of a guy that only took it out one to two times a year and stored it in a barn when not in use. The sled has oxidized paint (should be able to be able to buff it out), a broken windshield, the engine compartment is clean but is obvious it has not been run in awhile. The track and under carrage looks brand new. The sled has only 69 miles on the odometer (speedometer works so I asume the odometer also works.) I am excited to restore this sled for my family and I to enjoy for many seasons to come.

I got home and began working on the old cat. I disassembled and cleaned the carburator, replaced the fuel filter, fuel and oil lines, removed and replaced all of the old fuel and 2 stroke oil. After confirming it had strong spark, I fogged the cylinders and began trying to start it. After a strenuous workout of pulling she gave in and tried to run. I have to pulse the throttle in order to keep it running. The engine seems to bog down when revved but doesn't feel like idling either. I am familier with the Mikuni BN and SBN carbs used in personal watercraft but this B40-34... carb is new to me:dunno:.

I was wondering if anyone has any experiance or tricks with the Suzuki Spririt 440 F/C motor. I am running 40:1 pre-mix until I confirm the oil injection is working properly. Is 40:1 too much oil? I was unable to find any threads that would answer similar questions as do not want to waste anyones time. I am looking forward to talking with anyone about this project and hearing about their experiences with their sleds.

I'll post pictures of my sled as soon as I get the chance! Have a good day
 
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#4 ·
JD8345tr, If the oil injection is working should I still mix the fuel at 40:1? That just seems like a lot of oil...

I'll probably get some pictures posted this weekend. How far along is your '72 Panther project?
 
#5 ·
I would run 50:1 as most oil injection systems don't fail. As for the running issues, does that thing have some sort of Arctic Cat TSS(Throttle safety switch?). If so, I bet that's all messed up causing it to run like crap. Is the choke set right?
 
#6 ·
BC_Dan, This seems to be a very positive and knoledgable community, I'm glad to be a part of it now. I've read numberous threads and most seem to be helpful and leave out the negative feedback that is useless to anyone.

Im going to put some pictures up this weekend, I'll warn you it's not pretty....at least not yet.
 
#7 ·
If the oil injection is working properly you don't need to premix at all.

The Panther's at my grandparents' right now. Planned to get it going this summer...never happened. :laugh: Hope to get the carb cleaned and tuned and try start it next time I'm there. I get very little time to work on it since I don't keep it at home like my Indys.
 
#8 ·
If the throttle switch is still hooked up the engine would not fire if the throttle is pressed. I need to pulse the throttle in order to start it so i believe it has been bypassed. The engine kill switch does work. I have read the ground for the electrical system is poor but I do not know if I should relocate it.

Another problem it has is the coupler between the exhaust manifold and muffler is leaking. There is no gasket so I guess the springs are supposed hold all of the exhaust in.
 
#9 ·
JD83345RT, So because im running 40:1 with injection is probably a big part of it running bad. I was just trying to be safe while I confirm the injection system is working. Maybe too safe...

It's funny how the summer has so much stuff you need to get done yet nothing gets done...but there is still time for your Panther to get going!
 
#10 ·
The B40-34 carb can be a bit of a stinker to get right, but once it is, it stays that way.
The biggest problem I had with one was that it would vapor lock occasionally and I would have to "tickle" the throttle to keep it running until it cleared and would run right again.
Other than that it is a decent carb.

Easy to tell if the TSS has been bypassed, look under the bar pad and see if any of the three wires to the TSS/kill have be disconnected or jumpered.
 
#11 ·
RJ Geason, It looks like there is a black wire that has been looped.

On the carb there is the adjustment that has a spring (I believe the idle mix screw), do you know how many turns it needs to start with, and does that adjustment start by bottoming it out and counting the turns outward? There is a screw that does not have a spring that I just turned in until it bottomed out. The choke plunger when pulled moves about a half an inch is this the correct adjustment? The toggle handle for the choke is broken off so I am manualy pulling and locking it in place lightly with vicegrips. I have the toggle kit on order so can soon eliminate this annoying step...Thanks for your help
 
#12 ·
Consulting shop manual***

If you are referring to the one in top of the carb by the little plate, that is the idle mixture screw. It does not have an exact setting. You just turn it out from bottomed until it will idle smoothly. (usually 1 to 1.5 turns)
The rest is the same as a slide carb adjustment for the floats and enricher circuit (choke).
 
#13 ·
RJ Gleason, thanks I'll give it a shot and let you know. I'm also going to add some straight gasoline to my tank because I have 1.5 gallons at around 30:1. It's probably a little rich. I couldn't find anything conclusive about fuel mixture so I played it a little too safe. Do you happen to know off hand the fuel tank capacity? Thanks
 
#15 ·
JD8345rt, Thanks, I'll fill it up with 5 more gallons of straight gasoline to thin the fuel mix out and try it. Ill let you know how it goes.
 
#16 ·
The fuel pump seems to work but bleeds back a little when engine is not running for a couple days. Do you think I should rebuild or replace it? If so I can't seem to find a replacement diaphram for it. While I'm in there I might as well change the vacuum hose to the fuel pump, does anyone know if it is just stardard old vacuum line, and possibly what size? Thanks
 
#19 ·
BC_Dan, Thanks, I assume I just fill it until oil flows out of the fill hole in the chain case cover.
 
#20 ·
Some chaincases have a fill hole and a smaller hole lower on the chaincase that determines how much oil to add. Not sure what kind your sled has. It shouldn't take more than 8-12 oz to fill, if you are adding more than that, it's probably too much. Hopefully KCCats or RJ will look in their books and let you know how much is required.
 
#23 ·
Finally took some pictures! She's not much to look at yet!:)
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#24 ·
Well I filled the gas tank up, made a lead to bypass the kill switch, pulled it once and it started right (acually kind of caught me by surprise). The happiness faded after about 10 seconds when it started running crappy again and stalled. I saw the vacuume to the fuel pump was cracked, went inside to get my knife, got sidetraked started it with the fuel pump disconnected, it rad really good for a second. Makes me think I'm still running rich...
 
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