303 Wankel Project: Need Quick Help - Snowmobile Forum: Your #1 Snowmobile Forum

Alexander · 09-13-2010, 11:48 PM

I've aquired a '71 Panther Sachs rotary 303 engine and CVTs for a new motorcycle project. It'll be a pull start, lane splitting CTV bare-bones setup. Since I've purchased the engine and drive/driven clutches online, I don't have a point of reference. I have 2 quick questions.
What is the distance between the center of the drive clutch and driven clutch? I have an OEM belt and need to make sure I have the tension correct.
2nd and final question for you fanatics out there: why is there an eccentric "bushing/bearing" on the back of the driven clutch. Is this perhaps used to adjust the belt's tension?
Thanks in advance guys.
-Alex(probably the only guy in Las Vegas to have a snowmobile powered rig, let alone a rare air-cooled wankel.)

erikrkane · 09-14-2010, 05:35 AM

That sled/motor had an automatic transmission. Worked kind of like a hydro in a tractor. Might want to get a new primary

**RJ Gleason** · 09-14-2010, 08:17 AM

^^^^^^^
Only if it cam out of a VIP, the rest were a standard cvt set up.

The cam is for adjusting for different belt widths.
You basic distance should be +/- 11.5" with 1 1/4" of deflection and an offset of about 3/4".

Alexander · 09-14-2010, 11:34 AM

Thanks RJ, that makes sense. Just like checking a chain, 1 1/4" deflection. What do you mean by 3/4" offset? I wonder about how to line up the drive and driven clutch. My plan was to have them aligned with the engine off, so the front has the belt all the way in(on the pto) and the rear the belt on the outter most part.
I will have some flexibility with the setup as I will have chain tendioners-style adjustments on the jackshaft where the driven clutch is mounted.
Thanks again guys.
-Alex

**RJ Gleason** · 09-14-2010, 02:28 PM

The primary is offset from the secondary so that as the belt is pulled up, it stays straight (no side flex) into the secondary.

Alexander · 04-21-2011, 07:39 AM

I thought you guys would like to see an update.

YouTube - The Matterhorn is coming along.

**RJ Gleason** · 04-21-2011, 10:22 AM

Needs the pipe on it first, then tune the jets.
When running right, the header pipe should glow red.

Alexander · 11-19-2011, 07:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RJ Gleason

Needs the pipe on it first, then tune the jets.
When running right, the header pipe should glow red.

Update

Thanks for the help and for looking.
I'm thinking of picking up a new VM30 carb for this rig considering that us what came on the Sachs 295.

-Alex

Bellow · 11-20-2011, 05:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Alexander

I like! More pictures when it's finished? I hope so!

Bellow · 11-20-2011, 07:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RJ Gleason

When running right, the header pipe should glow red.

Would I be right in thinking that the length of that header pipe will have a significant effect on the engine's running?

**RJ Gleason** · 11-21-2011, 02:18 AM

Yep!

Alexander · 11-21-2011, 08:41 PM

I hope I haven't totally screwed myself...but I just realized something today. I took a look at this stock sled:

and I've realized that I've mounted my driven clutch backwards from how it was originally oriented. I'm assuming that it will not work in this direction. Ideas?

TIA, Alex

jKsled · 11-21-2011, 09:00 PM

Flip it around on the shaft! I'm assuming those work the same way as all other clutches i've experienced, and no, that won't work. the belt will deflect too much between the primary pulling it one way and the secondary opening the other way. They both need to move the belt the same way. Is it possible to flip it around?

**RJ Gleason** · 11-22-2011, 06:53 AM

Not only that, but the unit is turning the wrong direction for the helix/ramps.

Alexander · 04-28-2012, 07:56 PM

I've got my drive and driven clutches 11.5” center to center but it doesn't seem to look exactly right. 3/4” offset is still a difficult thing to understand. I know it effects the de clutching. I'll include a quick video to show what seems like too much belt” flop”...I will make a belt cover before I put this on the road. What do you folks think? I suppose I really need to know how to measure offset. Do you measure center to center with the belt off and place the driven clutch 3/4” more inboard since that is the direction the drive clutch pushes the belt?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T-HY...e_gdata_player
-Alex

jKsled · 04-28-2012, 10:08 PM

it looks to me like the belt is sitting very low in the secondary. either the wrong size belt or it is extremely worn? or you have your secondary shimmed out a lot?

Alexander · 04-28-2012, 10:36 PM

I don't have it shimmed but a it sits without a belt the center of both clutches are lined up. The drive clutch pushes the belt inboard and the driven clutch ” gives” inboard as well. Perhaps the 3/4” offset means I need to move the driven clutch inboard? It is a stock and new belt...no miles.
-Alex

**RJ Gleason** · 04-29-2012, 08:26 AM

Your assumption would be correct.

98yota · 04-30-2012, 11:26 AM

Cool bike! That thing sure will be a one of a kind ride when it's finished!

Alexander · 05-01-2012, 05:40 AM

Just a couple recent snaps of the rig...I hope it will be on the road very soon.

The handle you see is temporary until I make something more aesthetically pleasing but it is for the internal oil pump that pumps 2-stroke oil directly into the gas tank.

I've moved the secondary clutch now and it seems to have solved the "flop" problem.

Thanks again.
~Alex