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Old 01-18-2009, 11:59 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Tuning 77 Arctic Cat Jag 3000

I just cleaned the carb on my jag and i was hoping for some help to make her perform better.


When i had the carb off, i noticed the choke switch didn't move the "plunger" when i flicked it so if there is a link on how to set that

I cant find the setting for the throttle screw

I have no idea what the throttle screw does

When i start it it engages the clutch a little so i think i read to turn the air screw down to prevent that, but when i did that it would flood the engine when i turned it off

By turned it off i mean it idles before i ride but after it doesn't, it starts to bog then dies once i let off the throttle for 5 seconds.

I am also going to clean my fuel pump for the fun of it so if there are any tips



I pretty have no experience with this stuff so the simpler the better.
Thanks alot, There is a certain pride having the oldest machine out there when you pull up to brand new ones.
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Old 01-19-2009, 03:27 PM   #2 (permalink)
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If the plunger doesn't move its quite likely the cable is frozen. You might have luck with some penetrating oil (PB Blaster or the like) in the cable but probably you need to replace it. Replacements are available and not that expensive. Usually they don't come with the plunger so keep yours. Lots of times the replacements have cheapo handles too so keep your old one to transfer over if you need it.

Turn the air screw in to reduce idle? No turn the air screw back out which lowers the slide and lowers idle.

So you start the sled, it idles fine, you go for a ride and it rides fine but when you stop it won't idle and then bogs if you try to give throttle? Take a look at the plugs when it does that, could be you've got a leaky needle and its flooding, or could be you've got a leaky crank seal letting in air and you're going lean, or could be you've got a sticky needle not letting in enough gas at idle, or it could be a coil dying out when warm.
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Old 01-19-2009, 09:15 PM   #3 (permalink)
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I noticed your in Canada so for replacement parts i would go to royal distributing. There the cheapest in canada and have a big selection. Unless you know somewhere else.

Go to there web site and order your free catolage
Royal Distributing - Snowmobile Parts and Accessories. ATV, Motorcycle Parts and Accessories.
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Old 01-20-2009, 12:29 AM   #4 (permalink)
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thanks alot kellan i will look there first.

Curtle thanks for the good info, i will look into all that
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Old 01-30-2009, 10:10 PM   #5 (permalink)
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well i tracked down the choke problem to the cable being disconnected at the switch. I just turned the throttle valve a bit more in and my idle problem has gone away. Now i want to open my crankcase as it likely has not been opened in 32 years and am curious what the procedure is and if i have to replace the gaskets?

Thanks

I also have the fuel pump out so i was wondering do i just take it apart, clean it and put it back together?
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Old 01-31-2009, 04:41 AM   #6 (permalink)
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If you are going to open up the pump, you might as well put new parts in it.

If there are no problems with the crank and seals, no reason at all to crack the case open.
There is not much in there at all, enough room for the crank to turn and a bit more.
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Old 01-31-2009, 10:23 AM   #7 (permalink)
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I'm with RJ the gaskets in your fuel pump are probably all stuck so if you take it apart they'll probably tear. This is a VERY easy job, just make sure you keep everything CLEAN CLEAN CLEAN.
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'71 Arctic Cat Panther 303 - Wankle Panther
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'79 Polaris Cobra 340 - Back from the dead!
'95 Ski-Doo Grand Touring SE 670



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Old 01-31-2009, 10:48 AM   #8 (permalink)
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I thought it was a little strange that you guys said not to do anything. I said crankcase but what i meant was CHAINCASE. I wont take it apart until the end of the season but i might as well order the parts now.
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Old 02-01-2009, 07:54 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Ok, for the Chain Case, if you are real careful you can open it without damaging the rubber seal.
Most likely if you are not having any problems with it now, all you will need to do is to clean out any sludge and then close up and refill it. (8oz of oil)
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'93 Wildcat 700EFI
w/ Comet 108 Pro-4 clutch & 01 ZR skid

'90 Wildcat Project in progress.

Vintage (sorta)
1980 Indy Trail 440 (for sale)
1980 AC Pantera (donor engine to the 90 wildcat)


http://www.dcdrifters.net/


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http://www.masonicdryden472.org/

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Old 02-01-2009, 09:44 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Yeah, chaincase oil from the sledshop, don't use motor oil, btdt...
The chaincase oil with graphite is SUPER messy, don't get it on you. A guy at the sled shop showed me a trick. Put a short piece of fuel line on the bottle so you can hold the bottle upside down and shoot the oil where it needs to be with less mess.
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Raising sleds from the dead in north central MA.
'70 Ski-Doo Olympique 12/3 - The Yellow Bullet
'71 Arctic Cat Panther 303 - Wankle Panther
'78 Arctic Cat Pantera 5000 - Back from the dead!
'79 Polaris Cobra 340 - Back from the dead!
'95 Ski-Doo Grand Touring SE 670



www.deadsledwrenchers.net
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Old 02-03-2009, 09:48 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by curtludwig View Post
Yeah, chaincase oil from the sledshop, don't use motor oil, btdt...

So first things first i guess, drain the motor oil out, lol. Thanks i will pick some up today.

I redid my carbs again, got my choke plunger to work(i think it was running quarter open for the last 18 hours of riding), and then i went out on sunday and it was the first time my machine didnt start this year. I dont think the chaincase could of had anything to do with it but i will have to figure it out.
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