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Old 11-21-2007, 11:43 PM   #1 (permalink)
jKsled
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suspension settings

what are the best suspension settings for general trail riding? on my '85 formula mx, there are two springs/shocks in the rear and one in the front of the rear suspension. they have five adjustements on them. i weigh about 205-210 also. I'm looking for something with better steering at both low and high speeds. acceleration is not main concern, just felt that it was too difficult to steer when i took it out tonight. thanks
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1990 Skidoo Formula MX 470
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Old 11-22-2007, 07:50 AM   #2 (permalink)
smallengineguy
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Adjust the suspension so it doesn't bottom over large bumps. Adjusting the rubber limiter strap at the front ofthe rear suspension adjusts weight on the skis.
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Old 11-22-2007, 08:36 AM   #3 (permalink)
jKsled
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do i tighten it then to put more weight on skis?
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1990 Skidoo Formula MX 470
1986 Ford Ranger 2.9L 4x4
3"body lift
3" Skyjacker suspension lift
35" by 12.5" Super Swampers on rims
dual custom exhaust

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Old 11-22-2007, 09:48 AM   #4 (permalink)
RJ Gleason
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Yes, tighten or shorten to shift more down pressure to the skis.

Was it "pushing or scuffing" in the turns or very hard to turn (requiring a lot of effort)?
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Old 11-22-2007, 10:50 AM   #5 (permalink)
jKsled
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it was definitaly pushing around the corners. i don't have carbides, just wear bars. it was hard to hold it at a full turn, but thats just becasue it was pushing i think.
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1990 Skidoo Formula MX 470
1986 Ford Ranger 2.9L 4x4
3"body lift
3" Skyjacker suspension lift
35" by 12.5" Super Swampers on rims
dual custom exhaust

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Old 11-22-2007, 10:54 AM   #6 (permalink)
RJ Gleason
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First thing then is check the condition of the bars. If they are worn, the sled will not turn.
Carbides are actually cheaper in the long run as they last longer.
If you have any studs in the track, you should be using a carbide of at least 6".
Try this first, if it solves the problem, you do not need to do more. If not, then you need to make adjustments to the suspension.
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w/ Comet 108 Pro-4 clutch


80 PANTERA 500 F/C w/ Comet 102 clutch

'90 Wildcat Project in progress.

Trail Boss; Dryden to Summerhill trail.
http://www.dcdrifters.net/

Senior Deacon; F&AM Lodge# 472

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Old 11-22-2007, 11:21 AM   #7 (permalink)
jKsled
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no studs, and wear bar isn't that worn, but as of right now i can't afford new carbides along with all the other stuff. so im thinking adjustments would be best
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~If you dont think it's bad @zz, then whats the point?~


1990 Skidoo Formula MX 470
1986 Ford Ranger 2.9L 4x4
3"body lift
3" Skyjacker suspension lift
35" by 12.5" Super Swampers on rims
dual custom exhaust

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Old 11-23-2007, 12:33 AM   #8 (permalink)
RJ Gleason
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I'm not sure on the 'Doo, but most sleds have at least 2 mounting holes for the upper skid mounts.
If so, move the rear arm to the lower hole of the tunnel mount. this will shift more weight onto the skis. If there is not another lower hole, you will either have to shorten the front limiter a little or start by letting a little of the pre-load off the front shock/spring.
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Old Cat Rider


w/ Comet 108 Pro-4 clutch


80 PANTERA 500 F/C w/ Comet 102 clutch

'90 Wildcat Project in progress.

Trail Boss; Dryden to Summerhill trail.
http://www.dcdrifters.net/

Senior Deacon; F&AM Lodge# 472

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Old 12-27-2007, 11:01 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Shorten the rubber limiter strap/s as SEG mentioned and also check your ski alignment
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Old 12-27-2007, 08:51 PM   #10 (permalink)
Jim Jessup
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I believe on that susension, the limiter is controled by tightening or loosening a nut on the bottom of the front arm. Same idea though, just a different method.
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