97 mach1 700 oil light stays on after rebuild - Snowmobile Forum: Your #1 Snowmobile Forum

sebas7hekid · 11-24-2012, 03:50 AM

i just rebuilt my motor, starts perfect, oil light is on tho and it has plenty of oil, i use a piece of wire to open the oiler to see if it was working properly, started it up and alot of smoke started coming out, pretty sure this is normal due to the amout of oil was going in but oil light still stays on, i changed the wires around on the tank and still on... please some1 give me ideas what i could be, do not want engine blowing

**smallengineguy** · 11-24-2012, 05:34 AM

The brake lever also makes the oil light go on when you pull it. The oil tank has a sendng unit in it that sets the light on when low. Nothing to do with the engine.

sebas7hekid · 11-24-2012, 01:39 PM

yea i know the brake lever lights it up but i wasnt pushing the brakes and do u think the sending unit is malfunctioning? oil lvl is full

Kemo · 11-24-2012, 01:49 PM

It could be a faulty sending unit. However, I'm not familiar with how it functions. After learning that, it should be rather simple to test whether or not that it is indeed the culprit (or so I would assume).

davidnnoah · 11-24-2012, 06:53 PM

The brake lever should have a micro switch that illuminates the tail light and the oil light. I can't find it on a fiche but it should have one. If it's stuck,the lights are on. Is the tail light on as well?
If not, the oil level float/switch may be stuck. Pull the plug on that and see.

sebas7hekid · 11-25-2012, 12:32 AM

thank you every1, i will be checking all that in the morning and i will let u know what i find

davidnnoah · 11-25-2012, 08:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by davidnnoah

The brake lever should have a micro switch that illuminates the tail light and the oil light. I can't find it on a fiche but it should have one. If it's stuck,the lights are on. Is the tail light on as well?
If not, the oil level float/switch may be stuck. Pull the plug on that and see.

I mean brake light, not tail light of course.

sebas7hekid · 11-25-2012, 05:31 PM

ive checked it and the brake light on the seat is light up, i push the brake lever and it doesnt get brighter, so it must be the wire that is on the brake lever thats working bad, when i put it on it screwed in properly but the cap of the end came off n now its loose so idk if that can be fix some how without changing wires

davidnnoah · 11-25-2012, 06:17 PM

That micro switch on the brake lever can be removed and cleaned up. That's usually all it takes to get it operating properly. A cleaning with brake cleaner and lubing with a spray silicone will get you a year or 2 more but look for a replacement for a more permanent fix.

sebas7hekid · 12-16-2012, 07:04 PM

took it for first snow this weekend, belt was little tight so i backed up the motor a bit and adjusted the belt, on a cold start, it starts on 2 cylinders, 3rd cylinder beside clutch floads the plug with gas, i run br9eya, anti foul plugs, dry it off and it starts on all 3 but bogging at about half throttle, mirco switched fixed, but temp gauge and gas gauge not working also. I am also thinking about gearing it down to a 22 tooth top sproket and i have 24-44 right now(want it for deeper snow) pretty sure clutch is stock,clicker at 3 and track only moves around 4500 rpm, i would like it to start moving at around 3500-3800 what do i have to change?

davidnnoah · 12-17-2012, 08:18 AM

26/44 was stock so you're already geared down and 4500 is stock for engagement. Click down to 1 if you like.

sebas7hekid · 12-17-2012, 11:22 AM

what spring should i get for it to engage at 3800?
and for temp gauge and gas gauge not working any1 have ideas, i checked all the plugs and they are properly clipped in