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post #1 of 21 (permalink) Old 07-19-2012, 11:44 AM Thread Starter
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Question Rotax 503 charging system

Hi, Ive got an old Everest 500E (with the 503) and it no longer charges the battery. No power at the cables. BUT it does run the headlight and the speedo/tack lights (weakly). whats it gonna take to get this thing charging again? do I need to find an old Magnito or just buy a lighting coil??
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post #2 of 21 (permalink) Old 07-19-2012, 03:51 PM
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Check the voltage [ac] before the regulator at 4000 rpm, you should get about 26vac.
After the regulator you should get about 14 vdc. If you are getting that then most likely the problem is a bad ground or even a blown fuse to the battery.

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post #3 of 21 (permalink) Old 07-20-2012, 06:23 AM
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Going on what RJ said, if you get the 26VAC and not the 14VDC, then the regulator is bad. If you're not getting the 26VAC, then the stator is going out on it.

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post #4 of 21 (permalink) Old 07-20-2012, 10:50 AM Thread Starter
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awww! duh the yellow one is A/C !! couldnt fighure out why I had no voltage there! thanks
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post #5 of 21 (permalink) Old 07-21-2012, 06:53 AM
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Sometimes it's the little things!

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post #6 of 21 (permalink) Old 07-21-2012, 11:29 AM Thread Starter
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Well after chokeing on old 2 stroke fumes for the last 10 minutes and my ears ringing from the engine noise, I found out that I get a max of 11.6v A/C on the yellow wire!

I also get a grand total of 0 volts on the Red battery wire. (no not the starter one, the one with the fuse.) Fuse is good and the connections [I]look[I] tight.

Any Ideas???
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post #7 of 21 (permalink) Old 07-21-2012, 07:13 PM
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Zero on the red feed to the battery points to no output from the rectifier portion of the regulator.

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post #8 of 21 (permalink) Old 07-22-2012, 04:26 PM Thread Starter
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what about the small amount of A/C voltage on the yellow wire??
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post #9 of 21 (permalink) Old 07-22-2012, 06:33 PM
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Then you may have a weak charging coil.
Try cleaning up the coils ends and the magnets and see if that improves output.
It not, then a new coil would be in order.

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post #10 of 21 (permalink) Old 07-22-2012, 07:22 PM Thread Starter
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Is this something like what I need??

01-087-4 - Rotax Lighting Coil | Snowmobile Parts | MFG Supply

also Im assuming I need a regulator/rectifier???
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post #11 of 21 (permalink) Old 07-23-2012, 04:00 AM
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Do the lighting coil first. Witrh minimal voltage coming out of the engine, that may fix the problem and you might not need a regulator at all.

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post #12 of 21 (permalink) Old 07-24-2012, 09:05 AM Thread Starter
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Ok, so I need a lighting coil. Like this one: 01-087-4 - Rotax Lighting Coil | Snowmobile Parts | MFG Supply
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post #13 of 21 (permalink) Old 07-24-2012, 11:15 AM
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Yep!!

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post #14 of 21 (permalink) Old 07-31-2012, 02:50 PM Thread Starter
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Ok great. anybody ever put one of these in?
anything I should watch for?
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post #15 of 21 (permalink) Old 07-31-2012, 04:47 PM
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Just get a good solder connection to the wire and be careful that you do not pinch one when mounting it.

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post #16 of 21 (permalink) Old 11-03-2012, 03:50 PM Thread Starter
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hey, sorry it took so long to get to this, but ive hit yet another stop. Ive got the pullcord assembly off, the fan pully and the 33mm nut off. Now how do you remove the face of the cup? I can see what the coils, just not sure how to get to them...
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post #17 of 21 (permalink) Old 11-04-2012, 03:57 AM
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There should be 3 10mm head bolts holding it on.
You need those out to be able to pull the flywheel too.

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post #18 of 21 (permalink) Old 11-04-2012, 05:37 AM
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Get a GOOD puller to remove the flywheel. The magnets are super strong.

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post #19 of 21 (permalink) Old 11-04-2012, 01:18 PM Thread Starter
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I pulled the 10mm bolts, took that plate off and am trying to get past the next piece
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post #20 of 21 (permalink) Old 11-11-2012, 11:51 AM Thread Starter
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so to pull the flywheel out, I just pull? I cant sem to get anything to move..
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