2000 Ski Doo MXZ 600 - primary clutch clean - Snowmobile Forum: Your #1 Snowmobile Forum
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Old 12-25-2010, 07:22 PM   #1 (permalink)
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2000 Ski Doo MXZ 600 - primary clutch clean

I have the primary and seconday clutches off my MXZ 600 - going to put on a new track. Had the ol' "Popping" issue with the primary clutch not smoothly going all the way back to it's resting spot. Blew it out with compressed air, sprayed it liberally with brake cleaner. Didn't resolve. Now that it's off I'm considering trying to take it apart (I have those three fork things) but I don't even know what Governor Cup is ... How stupid am I to proceed?

I bought a Ski Doo manual and it assumes I know what a governor cup is. I don't want to really 'eff" something up, but, am conserned the primary won't operate normally; it's blownup some belts in the past...

Any guidance or suggestions are greatly appreciated. I'm up in Bolton, MA and supposed to be getting 2' snow tomorrow!!! I'm gonna be up all night on this sled.

Thanks!
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Old 12-25-2010, 09:40 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Clutches are intimidating but more simple than you would think. The "popping" issue is probably because of bad bushings in the spring cup and the moving flange.
Theres basically three large parts. The governor cup is the farthest piece out, the ramps are in it. The piece that it fits into is your moving flange and it has your rollers, arms, and spring in it. Your 3rd and final piece is the fixed flange and theres not much to it.
A rookie can pull a clutch apart but can only do so much in it withou the proper tools.
Check the bushing in the spring cup and the moving flange, if they feel worn you either need to get someone to replace them or buy the tools to get them. Check the ramps and make sure they are nice and smooth and dont seem to have issues. Check the rollers and make sure there isnt a lot of slop between them and the pins. And check the buttons for excessive wear and big ridges. In case you dont know the buttons are the 6 small round pieces that your three forks go on.
I suggest pulling your clutch once a season and do maintnence like replacing rollers and buttons if they are worn out. If you dont it will destroy the clutch and you will be into the clutch for hundreds of dollars.
Hope this helps, if theres anything that doesnt make sense to you dont be afraid to ask!
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Old 12-25-2010, 10:22 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Thanks sooo much. This does help, but, I'm still not totally comfortable as I don't have a diagram with arrows pointing to "ramps, bushings, spring cups, pins, rollers" etc. I bet I know just from educated guessing, but, ...that don't make me feel comfortable.

I dont' know how to check or what to check for with the "bushing in the sprng cup and moving flange". I don't have that fancy tool that I saw on a youtube video where the guy tightened dont' a device to hold back the spring so that taking the 3 allen bolts out wouldn't let it going "boing" all over the work bench.

If you could ever steer me to someting with a diagram/picture that would be cool. I just bought a manual online, but, they too just refer to things assuming the reader knows what they're talking about. (Man, it sucks to be a 45 year old business executive and feel soooooo stupid).

Thanks again for all your help.

Jay
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Old 12-25-2010, 10:28 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Eureka! I just found the section in my manual about the clutchs an have a much better understanding of the parts; bushing, rollers, etc.

Not sure what to check for on the bushing though. How do I know if they're worn/worn out?
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Old 12-25-2010, 10:50 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Bushings are a judgement call but for the most part if they look good they are good. If they dont have groves or are more worn on the top or the bottom of the bushing then they are good. Just feel them and if they are nice and smooth just go ahead and run them.
After your first time going through your clutch you will be much more comftorble with it.
The tool you saw is what I was talking about earlier, it is used to slowly bring the spring cup out while releasing tension on the spring as you know.
Before you tear into this thing I want you to read that section of your shop manual very carefully. All of the main components of the clutch(fixed and moving flanges and governor cup) need to be clocked right. Its easy to get right as long as you pay attention.
The governor cup and moving flange both have marks but the fixed sometimes does not. Its never a bad idea to get out a sharpie and mark everything where it is before you riip into this thing so you know for sure where everything needs to be.
One thing yo ucan keep in mind on re-assembly is that the fixed flange doesnt have to be perfectly clocked in the governer cup(the splines), as long as you get it close you will be alright.
Sorry for the long explenation, its just that small mistakes can be costly.
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Old 12-25-2010, 11:22 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Dude, this has been awesome - very helpful.

I did pay attention, I believe, to making sure everything is lined up on their timing marks. Thankfully the fixed half had a notch as well so I made sure it lined up with the movable half & gov cup.

I cleaned the hell out of everything I could; with brake cleaner. Ramps, arms, rollers, the slides where the buttons go. Everybody looked okay, to my moderately untrained eye. Pretty dirty in there. My hope is that this dirt is what was causing the movable half to not uniformly ease out all the way completely - I do want to get rid of that "pop" as I believe that's what was toasting belts in the past.

The bushings, again - to my untrained eye, and fingers - felt & looked okay. I've got it all back together and am going to pop it back on as soon as I do the track tomorrow.

Any suggestions on the secondary for cleaning? I'll check back on the manual and that youtube guy (Revzone) and see what I can come up with.

Thanks again; very much. I appreciate your patience and clarity.

Hey, I do have one (and I'm confident a few more will come as I get into the track job): The rear wheels at the rear/bottom of the track - do I need a puller to get them off? I've undone the bolt but can't get the wheel to come off... Also, how do I know if I have an SC-10 or SC-10 II suspension.

Much obliged!!!
Jay
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Old 12-26-2010, 03:28 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Your Welcome! That's what we are here for!
Dirty clutches are expected especially when its blown a couple of belts in the past and all that belt debris can throw everything off, hopefully it was your problem.

Although the secondary is a much simpler clutch you need special tools to get it all apart, and there is a very specific way of going about cleaning them. Where the cam slides within the clutch there is a nylon coating and if you accidentally wipe it off while cleaning your going to tear up clutch components often. Even though you may see a lot of crap on the nylon coating dont touch it. Also re-assembly can be a major pain even with the proper tools and you must pay close attention to how the spring and the cam are clocked together. The shop manuals generally wont tell you how its clocked because so many sleds where set up so different but if you dont get it back together right you may loose all of your top end. Its hard to explain how the cam is clocked on the splines because you have never been in one. But if you can get your hands on the tools and are determined to clean the secondary I would be happy to give you more specific directions.

Those rear wheels dont need a puller, bearings are probably seized onto the posts from rust. Soak the crap out of them with some kind of penetrating lube and pull. Dont use a hammer, that usually turns out bad.

I cant help you on determining what suspension you have, not my specialty lol. Hopefully someone else can help you out.

P.S. Now that you are familiar with your primary clutch and comftorble with being in there you can start tuning if you want. Clutches are a good way to gain performance and the smartest in my opinion. Utilize the horsepower you already have and get it to the snow.
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Old 12-26-2010, 03:36 AM   #8 (permalink)
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I was just rereading and I realized I missed something pretty important. On your buttons there are o-rings like im sure you saw. If those o-rings are worn out everything will ride weird and you will ruin ramps and rollers. o-rings are one of your fastest wearing parts but the cheapest. Also the culprit behind most TRA clutch failures.

Another thing you may want to look into getting your clutches aligned. A miss alignment will cause you to blow belts. Its simple but like everything else you need to get that pricy tool from ski-doo.
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Old 12-26-2010, 09:08 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Thanks a TON!!!! I really appreciate your help. I feel ...okay about the clutchs. I didn't take about the secondary, just sprayed brake cleaner on it and wiped down the sheaves. The snow started falling about 10 minutes ago and I'm heading out to do the track.

Have a great one!

Jay
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