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Old 09-14-2009, 07:19 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Question 94 formula stx 583 electrical issue

Hi, Im a new member to this site, and also just getting into snowmobiling, I just recently purchased a 94 formula stx 583, starts up and runs great, just noticed that the tac and lights do not work, talked to a friend of mine who is a machanic, and was told that it might be a bad ground, if thats not it check the V regulator and if thats not it then its the stator, Im currently on the first step, trying to locate the grounds, if anyone out there can help me with my little problem or has a wiring schematic for this sled, or can just explain where the ground wires are it would be greatly apreciated, thanks for your time,
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Old 09-15-2009, 06:39 AM   #2 (permalink)
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If NONE of the lights work, It's probably the regulator. If it was a ground, they would still be dim. Check the bulbs to see if they aren't blown first. If the regulator doesn't do it, then it's the lighting coil on the stator.
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Old 09-18-2009, 05:07 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Alright so I got a voltage regulator, no shops around me had a new one in stock, but I found a place that carried used ones, I plugged it in and still no changes, bought a voltage tester to check if im getting a current through the wires that plug into the regulator, I got a 0.05 out of the plug that connects to the regulator, but I get nothing at the connectors on the hood to my lights. how hard is it to change the lighting coil on this sled? anyone with any info on what steps to take, i would really apreciate it, thank you.
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Old 09-18-2009, 06:00 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Test at the hi/lo switch first, could just be a faulty switch.
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Old 09-18-2009, 07:27 PM   #5 (permalink)
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wil do tomorrow, just curious though would that also be affecting the break light and tac? I guess its possible if its shorting the whole system out. Thanks for your reply, I will let you know what happens
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Old 09-18-2009, 07:37 PM   #6 (permalink)
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It can.
You should be getting about 37vac from the yellow wires at 1/4 throttle, at idle, you should have at least 13vac.
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Old 09-19-2009, 06:23 AM   #7 (permalink)
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37-40 VAC out of the motor, 12VDC out of the regulator.
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Old 09-19-2009, 09:36 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Sorry guys, this is all new to me, the tester I bought has a dcv, acv, dca, and ohm settings, I tried getting readings on the wires comming out of the crank case but wasnt getting anything, not sure if it will read through the wire casing, I know those wires work because I disconnected the plugs they go in to 1 by one and each time the engine died, also the one from the ignition coil im guessing because my ignition stopped working while disconnected. I tested the hi low switch and was getting a reading that bounced around and increased when I gave it throttle, If it were the lighting coil though on the sled, would that affect my tach? thats the only reason I havent ordered a lighting coil for it and started to tare it down, thats why im leaning more towards a wiring issue, was also told it might be a faulty kill switch, so I disconected that, still no change. Sorry about the lack of knowledge, and I do apreciate your patients.
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Old 09-20-2009, 04:47 AM   #9 (permalink)
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For readings before the regulator, use acv. For after the regulator, use dcv.
The tach runs on a feed directly from the engine (acv) it does not go through the regulator.
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Old 09-20-2009, 08:02 PM   #10 (permalink)
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No problem...Everyone learns something every day. Unplug the connector that goes to the regulator from the engine. Set your meter to AC and put one lead on each terminal in the plug. You should have 35-40 VAC. If you don't get any voltage (or minimal voltage) the lighting coil is shot. It's under the flywheel on the engine.
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Old 09-20-2009, 08:29 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Thanks for your reply, I disconnected the regulator earlier and tested the plug that it plugs into, I didnt get any reading, so im guessing im switching out the lighting coil. I heard about a external lighting coil that you can get? that would save me from taking out the flywheel, but im not to sure if there is one for that sled, a shop told me the lighting coil is the same unit as the stator?
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Old 09-20-2009, 09:03 PM   #12 (permalink)
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The light coil is considered part of the stator as it is mounted on the same plate.
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we are all given sh*t in life, but some of us learn to turn it into fertilizer and grow from it, and some us try to fling it on others like monkeys.
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Old 09-21-2009, 06:24 AM   #13 (permalink)
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That is correct. Some coils can be replaced on the stator, others you need the whole stator.
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Old 09-21-2009, 03:25 PM   #14 (permalink)
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well I thought I would test out that plug again today, was getting a very weak reading then it wouldnt have a reading, so I started to check all the wires again coming from the engine. The 2 yellows were all taped up nicely so I thought it was a good connection, but since it was the only one I havent checked I decided to take the tape off, the first layer of tape came off and I noticed there was a lot of currosion then the wire seperated, it was a very bad connection cleaned them up connected them and voila lights tach and indicator lights all work, been rattling my brain on this for over a week now, and it turns out to be as simple as that. Anyways thanks alot for the advice, take care.
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Old 09-22-2009, 06:24 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Glad we could help!
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Old 09-22-2009, 07:57 AM   #16 (permalink)
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Did you solder them back together?
Better than twisting the wires or using crimp connectors.
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we are all given sh*t in life, but some of us learn to turn it into fertilizer and grow from it, and some us try to fling it on others like monkeys.
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Old 11-23-2009, 04:08 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by joker84 View Post
well I thought I would test out that plug again today, was getting a very weak reading then it wouldnt have a reading, so I started to check all the wires again coming from the engine. The 2 yellows were all taped up nicely so I thought it was a good connection, but since it was the only one I havent checked I decided to take the tape off, the first layer of tape came off and I noticed there was a lot of currosion then the wire seperated, it was a very bad connection cleaned them up connected them and voila lights tach and indicator lights all work, been rattling my brain on this for over a week now, and it turns out to be as simple as that. Anyways thanks alot for the advice, take care.
im having the same issue, iv got one black wire going to my ignition and kill switch that reads about 34v at idle and i have two solid yellow wires that do not read anything nor are they connected to anything, my lights and tac do not work but all the lights work when a battery is hooked up to the harness, i even cleaned up the stator plate yesterday still nothing but the motor runs great, what are the two solid yellow wires for?
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Old 11-23-2009, 04:14 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Those are actually for the lights.
It would appear that your light coil is shot.
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'90 Wildcat Project in progress.

Trail Boss; Dryden to Summerhill trail.
http://www.dcdrifters.net/
http://twintiersleddin.proboards76.com/index.cgi
http://www.fingerlakesstone.com/new.html

Junior Warden; F&AM Dryden Lodge# 472
Quote:
we are all given sh*t in life, but some of us learn to turn it into fertilizer and grow from it, and some us try to fling it on others like monkeys.
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Old 11-23-2009, 04:22 PM   #19 (permalink)
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thats what i figured, i was allso told that there should be 3 yellow wires coming out from the stator? i only have the 2 solid yellow wires, am i missing one?
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Old 11-23-2009, 04:24 PM   #20 (permalink)
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No, some had three, but only if it had e-start.
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'93 Wildcat 700EFI
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'90 Wildcat Project in progress.

Trail Boss; Dryden to Summerhill trail.
http://www.dcdrifters.net/
http://twintiersleddin.proboards76.com/index.cgi
http://www.fingerlakesstone.com/new.html

Junior Warden; F&AM Dryden Lodge# 472
Quote:
we are all given sh*t in life, but some of us learn to turn it into fertilizer and grow from it, and some us try to fling it on others like monkeys.
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