really hard to start when hot? - Snowmobile Forum: Your #1 Snowmobile Forum

PoisonJello · 03-23-2008, 02:17 PM

well its a 583 r.a.v.e. fresh top end .040 over, 145 p.s.i. both sides, carbs cleaned and adjusted, air screw at 1.5 turns out, temp around 50 to 60 on guage when driving, new air filter, new plugs, even a new drive belt, last night was its first run so took it easy, never over heated ran great, the idle wasn't set right so when i slowed down it stalled, adjusted the idle, but it didn't want to start again, finally after a lot of trying it started again ran prefect (idle set a bit high this time) got to my friends place with no problems turned it off while he gased his up, then wouldn't start again same problem acts like it wants to start but just doesn't..we did get it started so i left it running went for a long drive, when we got back and parked them i tried to restart it but same problem

any ideas??

oh ya once all back together i pulled it about 20+ times to fill the carbs back up then primed it twice and it started with no problems, i let it run for only a few minutes to see how well it was running, next night was first run, 2 primes and started first pull....tomorrow afternoon i will see if its starts again easy when its cold..but could it be just an air leak in a gasline or the primer or should i be considering something else??

if r.a.v.e. valves are not adjusted the same could it cause a start problem? (I don't think so but thought i should ask)

or does carbs need to be adjusted different for .040 over?

thanks for any help
Jody

JheLrey · 03-23-2008, 02:55 PM

Needle and seat could be flooding the motor...

PoisonJello · 03-23-2008, 07:06 PM

well now that you mention that I forgot to say the plugs are burning a nice brown but they did look a bit wet when i checked them (when it decided not to start, it was dark out so hard to see how wet)
also i forgot to check the needle setting when i cleaned the carbs because i never removed the needle and slide from the sled (i think it is suppost to be set in the middle, i will have to check it)
also is it normal for one main jet to be brass and the other carb has a brass and plastic one (might be nyloneither way thought that was a bit strange)
i guess thats the fun in buying a used sled, always so many surprizes

**smallengineguy** · 03-23-2008, 08:07 PM

Give it about 1/4 throttle when it happens next time. If it starts, it's leaking by when off.

PoisonJello · 03-23-2008, 10:12 PM

if that is the problem what needs to be replaced or fixed?
I'm guessing the jets or does that mean the fuel pump might be leaking? its been a really long time since i've fixed skidoo's the rebuild was easy but some setting and little things i have long forgot, the manual helps for some stuff but not all, wish i had the shop manual for the 93 but the 97 shop manual works to help for most stuff

JheLrey · 03-24-2008, 04:25 AM

Needle and Seats would be leaking... Letting in too much gas, then it takes forever to pull it over. When it does that, hold the throttle part way open or wide open and see if it starts sooner. If it does, its needles and seat.

Jim Jessup · 03-26-2008, 04:24 PM

Some engines have to be started with the throttle cracked anyways. My Vmax 4 is like this. Not sure if the 583 was known for this though?
Anyways if you rebuild the carbs and you still have to crack the thottle, I would be looking at the fuel pump.

gil57usa · 04-03-2008, 07:30 AM

My 97 MXZ 670 has a similar problem. After its warmed up or been riden for awhile and shut off, it's a bear to re-start. I have to hold the throttle open while I pull. No easy feat considering it has killer compression!