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Old 12-31-2013, 04:19 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Unhappy 98 Polaris Indy 340 Lite

First time user of this forum.

I have a 1998 Polaris Indy Lite 340. It will not start and I was wondering if anyone has any ideas for me to try.
What I've done to troubleshoot.

1. New plugs. Have spark.
2. Compression test is good.
3. Pulled gas lines from each side of fuel pump. One at a time and pulled over. Gas looks to be pumping fine from the pump to the carbs.
4. I can pour a tiny bit of gas into the cylinder and it will run for a few seconds.
5. I pulled off the carbs and took them apart, watching you tube videos. I cleaned them, they seemed clean to begin with but went ahead and cleaned them anyway. Sprayed carb cleaner in all the main jets and pilot jets sprayed out the bowl and floats sprayed all the little holes and ports. The whole time not knowing exactly what to expect, So I am amusing I have them cleaned good.
6. I have new gas in the tank.
7. Air box is free and clear of debris.

Got everything back together today. Still will not start. Same symptoms. Can pour some gas in the cylinder and will start for a bit.
Anyway to be certain carbs are clean? Or other tings I should try?
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Old 12-31-2013, 05:07 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Check the impulse line you may have a bad fuel pump itself. Since it will run when you pour fuel in the cylinders you have narrowed it down To fuel delivery

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Old 12-31-2013, 05:24 PM   #3 (permalink)
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When you took the carbs off, was there fuel in the bowls? If they were dry, it could indicate that the needles / seats are stuck.

How were the plugs at any point? Did they get fuel on them?
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Old 12-31-2013, 06:23 PM   #4 (permalink)
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I think meburdick is spot on. You have good fuel, good spark, and the fuel pump seems to work ok. About the only thing that can keep fuel from the carbs is a stuck inlet needle/seat.

To clean those, you have to take a small punch and tap the pin that holds the float out, being VERY careful not to break the arms that hold the float. Once the float is out, remove the needle and seat. Clean, reassemble. Make note of how the float goes on, so you don't attempt to install it upside down. That doesn't work well. Honest.
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Old 12-31-2013, 09:43 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Another way to clean the needle and seat is with carb cleaner. All you have to do is pull the fuel line, then you using the straw on the carb cleaner can, you spray directly into fuel port.
I have had good luck unsticking the seat with this method. After you have carb cleaner coming out of the over flow of the carb. You put the fuel line back on the carb.
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Old 01-01-2014, 08:12 AM   #6 (permalink)
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The plugs did not seem to be wet. So when I cleaned the carbs. I took the spring loaded (needle?) out of the Fuel Inlet. The spring moved freely. Is the seat the part that the needle sits in? Are you telling me to take a punch and pop out the seat and check the hole on that?
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Old 01-01-2014, 08:49 AM   #7 (permalink)
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If the needle came out of the seat you won't need to punch it out. You may however need to check the float height for spec. It sounds like you have narrowed it down to a fuel problem. So good gas, fuel pump, fuel filter, carb needle, carb jets, choke & compression/crank seals (for vaccuum) will all need to be checked until you've isolated the problem.

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Old 01-04-2014, 01:24 PM   #8 (permalink)
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meburdick

I got back to work on it today. Took the carbs back off. Took those apart one at a time and the bowls on both were full of gas.

I cleaned them again very good. Got some brass wire and made sure all the ports were cleaned. Using the wire and carb cleaner and compressed air.

Put everything back together. Same symptoms. I did check the plugs after pulling it a few times and they look like they have gas on them but its hard to tell. I dumped some gas in the cylinder and boom started right up for a few seconds.

Im am out of ideas. any help out there?
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Old 01-04-2014, 01:28 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Assuming you're working in a garage or shop, did you try to start without the airbox on? Since fuel is getting to the carb, but possibly not getting INTO the motor, I'm wondering if there's a restriction in the airbox that's preventing the motor from drawing air (which would mean it also can't get fuel).

Also... said only "compression test it good". Can you elaborate on how you tested, what your readings were, and how you know the reading from the gauge is accurate?
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