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Old 11-22-2013, 04:31 PM   #1 (permalink)
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indy trail throttle help

ok so my 96 indy trail 488 is not running right i cleaned the carbs and seems to run great but u let off the throttle and it does not idle there seams to be a lot of slack in the throttle block and if u just barely touch the thing and i mean like a 1/8 inch and the thing will idle great is there a way to adjust the throttle cable or what should i do
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Old 11-22-2013, 08:39 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Tighten up the throttle cable. There are adjusters on top of each carb. You loosen the stop nut and then just twist (counter clockwise to tighten the cable).

Sometimes you can look at the cable splitter (where it splits 1 cable into 2) and see which cable is not adjusted properly.

What is going on is the throttle has two sensors in it. One to tell when the throttle is being pushed, and the other to tell when it is not. When you let off, if there is any slack in the cable, it should turn off. This is a safety feature.

Technical.... The two switches are connected in series with each other and in parallel with the kill switch. When sitting there, the throttle close switch is being pressed and it OPENS the circuit. When you push on the throttle, is CLOSES that switch and OPENS itself.

The switch for no-throttle is usually visible, little plastic button near where the cable goes through. The switch to tell when the throttle is being pushed is hidden inside and is activated by the pivot pin.
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Old 11-22-2013, 09:25 PM   #3 (permalink)
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ok first the cables on the carbs wont turning them out cause a out of sync carbs and then for the switches how would i adress them because i have like 1/8 inch of cable not touching the lever so should i get that squared away first then go after the switches i just replaced the cdi box because i lost spark on the sled so it now has spark and now just to adress the bad running due to the cable not right
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Old 11-22-2013, 09:52 PM   #4 (permalink)
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When you tighten them, put one finger in each carb, and with your other hand, slowly push on the throttle. If you feel one lift up faster, that one is tighter. Tighten the other one until they lift at the same time. So basically, get one carb right, and adjust the other one to go up at the same time. This will sync the carbs along with tightening the cable. And does it just die if you let off the throttle? If so this is due to your throttle safety switches, if there is too much slack, they kill the engine. The idea is if your carbs get stuck WOT while ridding and you let off the throttle, it recognizes the slack and kills the engine

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Old 11-23-2013, 10:11 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Try running it while you hold the throttle lever back (idle, no throttle) this will show you that the switch is what is killing it.

Only think to do is to tighten the throttle cables as mentioned early. if you know your carbs are properly sync'ed then turn each screw equal amounts.
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Old 11-29-2013, 10:35 AM   #6 (permalink)
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So in order to take the slack out of the cable I turned the carb adjusters and when I did I had to turn them out all the way and in doing that it brought the carb slides all the way up so then I tryed to adjust the slides with the side idle adjuster screws and that did not help at all idk what to do


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Old 11-29-2013, 02:20 PM   #7 (permalink)
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It sounds like you have a few things to do...

1) Ensure that the throttle safety switches are operating correctly (you may have trouble validating this until the slide will idle on its own). Start the sled and let it idle. Grab the pivot point of the throttle lever and hold it so that when you press the throttle, it can not move toward the throttle switch assembly. Press the throttle. This will cause the safety switches on both sides of the throttle assembly to make contact, complete the kill circuit, and cause the motor to die.

2) Get the carbs properly adjusted "all around". Be sure that the air screws (1.5 turns out from seated) and throttle cable lengths are set correctly (.24" gap under the cutaway of the slide - use the smooth part of a 1/4" drill bit to set this, idle screw should be backed out at this point). Once you have the opening gauged, turn the adjuster in 1/3 of a turn and tighten the jamb nut. Once you have the initial setting, start to screw the idle screw in until the slide is no longer touching the drill bit and you can slide the bit out without it scraping. Put the drill bit back in place, and try moving it slightly while you back the idle screw out slowly. As soon as the slide lightly touches the bit, the idle screw is set. Repeat for both carbs. You'll need to remove the airbox for this, and you'll need to hold the cable "junction" in the same position it will be in once the airbox is reinstalled.

With step two completed, the cable free play should be properly adjusted.
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Old 11-29-2013, 08:17 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Once it starts pulling the slides up your slack is gone, the cable is tight enough to pull the slides . I bring it up until it starts going up, then back off a little.

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Old 11-29-2013, 08:30 PM   #9 (permalink)
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While Josh is "right", the procedure that I wrote out was based on information taken directly from the service manual. It includes specific measurements that Polaris wants you to use. Until you've done it a couple of times using the specific numbers, it's hard to gauge things like "back off a little."
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Old 11-29-2013, 08:34 PM   #10 (permalink)
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even I have to agree do it meburdicks way not mine! Haha

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Old 11-29-2013, 08:36 PM   #11 (permalink)
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There's nothing wrong with your method, but you need to do it with specific measurements a couple of times so that you can do it by feel.
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Old 11-29-2013, 10:24 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Sweet guys thanks a lot I will be doing this work on Sunday just wish I had a real garage to do it in


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Old 12-03-2013, 01:46 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Well that got every thing tuned but still no run with out holding the throttle it's definitely the kill switches not being depressed


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Old 12-03-2013, 01:51 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Have you tried unhooking the kill switch? If you do, you'll have to kill the motor via choke, fuel supply shutoff, or pulling a plug wire (or both)
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Old 12-03-2013, 01:52 PM   #15 (permalink)
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You should be able to see that kill switch under the throttle lever. Small post that sticks out. Check and see if the throttle lever is pushing on it at all.

If it is, maybe not enough? I've seen the post get broken off or just worn down too.

There should be a disconnect on the handle bar for those switches. You could disconnect them for now to be sure that is the problem. Use the key to shut it off.

If you don't have a key, you could always choke it to kill it. Problem with choking it is that it floods it. Wait about 10-15 minutes and it will start right up. Or hold the throttle 3/4 open to start again.
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Old 12-03-2013, 01:57 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Yea I know it's the small kill switch http://youtu.be/4GU5XvMh6wk


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Old 12-03-2013, 02:41 PM   #17 (permalink)
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okay, the video does show the throttle is still too loose. That button is about the right height from what I could tell. It looked to move about 1/16", which is about normal.

Try this. Remove the slides from the carbs with the throttle cable attached. Does the throttle now close all the way?

If yes, then you still need to adjust the cable length by un-screwing the adjusters on top of the carb. This should not effect the carbs in any way unless you go to far. If there is not enough thread on the adjusters, the next step would be to tighten them down and remove some of the cable slack from the slide side. I usually wrap the cable around the screw or something to shorten it. Be sure to adjust the top adjusters again.

If you feel confident your throttle will never stick or break, you can bi-pass those switches as well. Nothing special, just disconnect. The two small switches are in series with each other and in parallel with the kill switch.
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Old 12-06-2013, 11:10 PM   #18 (permalink)
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So I tryed every thing and still no change in slack idk what to do


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Old 12-06-2013, 11:22 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Your throttle will always have some slack in it. The slack in each carb should be the same though.

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Old 12-07-2013, 05:18 PM   #20 (permalink)
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I'm ganna tie a knot in to the cable see if that help


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