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post #1 of 57 (permalink) Old 08-16-2013, 08:32 PM Thread Starter
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Stuck / Rusted Secondary Clutch

I posted about this before but it was when I was having other problems more pressing. My secondary is stuck/rusted on. I had tried the penetrating oil thing but I was doing it wrong. I only had the sled tipped up 3/4 so I suppose it didn't soak in. Also, it didn't hit me that the threaded hole is not what needs oil but the top of the shaft and keyway so it soaks down.

So...I'm trying it again this time with the sled as vertical as I can. However, last fall I had my mechanic work on it (and charge me) for an hour only to say he couldn't get it off either and thought perhaps between the soaking and driving it might break free over the winter. It didn't.

So here I am soaking again hopefully the right way contemplating other methods I've read about:

I've considered pulling the jackshaft out but I really don't want to remove the gear case let alone the belly pan.

What about a large 3 claw puller - O'Reilly has one free but the bolt is so long I'd have to drill a 1" hole in the pan like the one for the primary plus I don't know if the claws will damage the shaft or sheves?

I've read some guys use a harmonic balancer / flywheel puller using the three belt deflection screws but if its on there like I think they might strip/break.

Heat is out of the question...I don't have the finesse to not melt something down.

More patience / lube?

What do you guys think? It's bugging the snot out of me.

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post #2 of 57 (permalink) Old 08-16-2013, 10:16 PM
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Do not use a 3 jaw, you will bust the outer sheave pulling on it. And dude heat that thing up. I think I accidentally melted one when I was using a blow torch with a cutting tip, but get a bottle of map gas and go to town, you wil never get the metal got enough to melt it. You don't have to pull chain case to pull shaft, you can just undo the sprocket and such and undo the bearing races on clutch side than drill out about 10 rivets on te clutch side belly pan and just flex the pan down and sneak the whole assembly out that way ad toss it in a press and press it off.


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post #3 of 57 (permalink) Old 08-18-2013, 08:16 AM Thread Starter
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OK. So patience and heat.

Where exactly do I apply heat. Just to the tip of the shaft? The Clutch it self? Can I open the halves and heat down between somehow?

Also. if I remove some of the screws from the front or back of the clutch will that allow access to anything helpful?

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post #4 of 57 (permalink) Old 08-18-2013, 10:14 AM
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Had the same problem and I used the 3 bolt holes on the front of the clutch with a large threaded rod through a plate and bolted it to the front of the clutch then u just turn it out and I should come off worked great had to make the thing but it did the trick


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post #5 of 57 (permalink) Old 08-18-2013, 10:54 AM
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If all else fails, cut it off and buy a good used secondary. Swap meets are full of P-85 secondaries that go for $25-30 bucks.

And when you get it off, make sure when you put one back on to apply never-seize or some grease on the shaft to prevent the problem from recurring.

Good luck!!

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post #6 of 57 (permalink) Old 08-18-2013, 01:30 PM Thread Starter
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I don't have the tools to fabricate the thing but I wonder if the three holes would like up with a flywheel puller.

Anybody else have a suggestion on where to apply heat? Or maybe where not to?

I actually like the idea of cutting the @#$% thing off...wonder of it would be easier to just cut the jackshaft 3-4" inside of the bearing and just get both.

Any swap meets near Fargo, ND or Mentor, MN?

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post #7 of 57 (permalink) Old 08-18-2013, 02:45 PM
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If you cut the jack shaft off you will still have to drop belly pan down to replace it with a new one. So why not disassemble it and take clutch and jack shaft off as one piece and have it pressed apart


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post #8 of 57 (permalink) Old 08-18-2013, 03:04 PM Thread Starter
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Good point! I thought perhaps without a clutch on it you may be able to fenagle a new jackshaft in.

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post #9 of 57 (permalink) Old 08-18-2013, 03:10 PM Thread Starter
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How would one go about cutting the clutch off? Just a cutting wheel on an angle grinder? Seems like it would be tough to not damage the shaft anyway while cutting.

Guess I'll start disassembling the gears and left belly pan. I suppose I'll have to invest in a rivet gun. Any suggestion for a model/type? What size rivets are those?

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post #10 of 57 (permalink) Old 08-18-2013, 09:08 PM
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All I had was a drill and bits I did not do anything beyond that man easy threaded rod 2 bolts and a plate about 6 inches drill 3 holes in plate and one in the middle use 3 clutch bolts off a primary they are the same thread the. Slide rod in to center hole use a nut on the inside between the plate and the clutch put a wrench on it and then use a pair of vice grips to turn your rod it's acts just like a regular clutch puller


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post #11 of 57 (permalink) Old 08-18-2013, 10:29 PM
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Or you can double or triple nut the end of threaded rod and use a regular socket.


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post #12 of 57 (permalink) Old 08-18-2013, 10:39 PM Thread Starter
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I see...so the wrench holds the nut which does the pulling against the plate?

I like the idea of putting a socket on it...maybe a large bolt instead of a threaded rod?

What gauge plate are we talking?

Instead of taking the bolts off the primary couldn't I just get some grade 8 bolts at the hardware store?

I'm a little nervous. Not sure how long its been since it was off. Last owner bought it in 2006 and I have a feeling he never took it off!

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post #13 of 57 (permalink) Old 08-18-2013, 11:18 PM
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Yea see I just had some primary bolts laying around and I used 1/4 steel maybe less not to much and yes u just hold the wrench in place and twist the rod


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post #14 of 57 (permalink) Old 08-18-2013, 11:23 PM
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I have a video to show why I did mine was on there bad Tried every thing


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post #15 of 57 (permalink) Old 08-18-2013, 11:37 PM
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Go to YouTube look up drew Harris under Channels and look for the one with black and red indy and a yellow and red skidoo that's my channel and there should be a video up soon with clutch removal on it and please subscribe going to be doing a few videos on how I do the rest of my indy 500 sks mod sled with a 144 on it


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post #16 of 57 (permalink) Old 08-19-2013, 07:00 AM
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http://youtu.be/MHynWOS2tpo[/URL]


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post #17 of 57 (permalink) Old 08-19-2013, 07:01 AM
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http://youtu.be/MHynWOS2tpo


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post #18 of 57 (permalink) Old 08-19-2013, 10:50 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dhridenh View Post
Thanks for the video. Its exactly as I pictured it except you seem to have more room for the threaded rod. Maybe its an older sled or maybe the left pan is removed but mine has 6-7 inches so I'd have to find a shorter main bolt.

I'm going to give it a try.

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post #19 of 57 (permalink) Old 08-19-2013, 10:56 PM
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Yes I take it u have a wedge chassis mine is a evolved newer style even tho it's a 95 with mine u can take the side paneling off of is let me tell u so nice to work on I love the evolved but yes basically use a smaller rod and I highly recommend going out and finding wd40 pro lube with blue torch it's the best stuff I have ever used it acts like a torch I used it at my work on rusty old cars every day and its the best stuff anyways s Soak it down let it sit and then give it a whorl should come off I like doing little how to stuff now if my go pro would stay charged or if I had a camera guy


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post #20 of 57 (permalink) Old 08-20-2013, 07:30 AM Thread Starter
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Well for weeks I have been soaking with Liquid Wrench, PB Blaster and Seafoam Penetrating Oil (alternating each time I spray) so what's another $7 can of lube at this point. I'll give it a try.

Currently at the lake sending out the summer. But I did manage to strip a pair of plastic skis with very good carbides from my uncle for $30.00

He also has a cute old (vintage) Arctic Cat 340 in the weeds he's trying to sell me but I got enough old sled problems at this point.

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