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post #41 of 57 (permalink) Old 09-02-2013, 08:41 PM
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You won't damage the clutch pressing against the back side trust me I've pressed up tons of clutches that way


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post #42 of 57 (permalink) Old 09-03-2013, 05:19 PM Thread Starter
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You were right.

Success!!

Stuck / Rusted Secondary Clutch-1378246673180.jpg

I got the shaft and key cleaned up with a wire wheel. Any ideas on how to clean the inside of the sleeve on the clutch?

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post #43 of 57 (permalink) Old 09-03-2013, 06:27 PM
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I always used a piece of sand paper around some 7/8 rod and slide it in and out and up and down until it was clean. Or you can use a screwdriver handle with some sand paper around it. Works the same.


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post #44 of 57 (permalink) Old 09-03-2013, 10:00 PM
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Congrats! Isn't working on sleds fun

2017 SKS 800, 2007 Dragon RMK 700 155", 2008 RMK 600 155", 95 Prowler 550 2-up, Really OLD AC Cheetah

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post #45 of 57 (permalink) Old 09-03-2013, 10:19 PM Thread Starter
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Congrats! Isn't working on sleds fun
I'll let you know when I get it all back together. ;-)

Seriously though...I have an intimate knowledge of my sled that can't hurt in the long run.

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post #46 of 57 (permalink) Old 09-03-2013, 10:37 PM
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That's always valuable. And really.. there is a sense of accomplishment when you have a pestering problem like yours and you solve it without hucking any of your tools through the neighbor's garage window

2017 SKS 800, 2007 Dragon RMK 700 155", 2008 RMK 600 155", 95 Prowler 550 2-up, Really OLD AC Cheetah

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post #47 of 57 (permalink) Old 09-03-2013, 10:56 PM Thread Starter
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The shop I brought it to said the press jumped off the floor when it broke loose and they had to press it all the way out cause it was so gummed up. He was convinced there was no way it would come off on the sled.

He did say however at least it didn't explode like the one they pressed off an arctic cat earlier that morning. Said it sent shrapnel in a 90 degree pattern from both sides.



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post #48 of 57 (permalink) Old 09-04-2013, 01:22 AM
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Dang! Don't think I would want to be around for that. Maybe they should design a shrapnel cage...

2017 SKS 800, 2007 Dragon RMK 700 155", 2008 RMK 600 155", 95 Prowler 550 2-up, Really OLD AC Cheetah

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post #49 of 57 (permalink) Old 09-06-2013, 09:00 AM Thread Starter
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You were right.

Success!!

Attachment 25409

I got the shaft and key cleaned up with a wire wheel. Any ideas on how to clean the inside of the sleeve on the clutch?

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I have kind of a weird question.

After I cleaned up the shaft and inside of the clutch sleeve I was test fitting the clutch and it wouldn't go on all the way before it hit the bearing collar. So, using the clutch I tapped the bearing inward until it was almost flush.

Then I was having second thoughts so I tapped the bearing out all the way off the shaft and looked. When I put the clutch on the shaft without a bearing and look at where the set screw marks are there is no way the clutch would fit on if I line up the set screws again.

Trying to figure out what is going on here. Do you think the bearing moved on the shaft when it was being pressed out and that's why it doesn't align anymore? How do you explain the set screw marks then?

Should I polish up the part of the shaft where the collar sits so that it slides better at that part of the shaft? It slides easily where the clutch rides but is very tight after that.

When I put the jackshaft back in the sled do I bolt in the chaincase parts first (including chain and gears) and then align the bearing second using the flange as a guide?

How much room should there be between the bearing collar and the clutch? I've read some people have shims behind it but mine didn't have any. If the clutch is touching the bearing will that cause a problem?

Sorry for all the Qs...just want to do this thing right.
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post #50 of 57 (permalink) Old 09-06-2013, 10:38 AM
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The jackshaft shouldn't come flush to the end of the clutch. There should be a large spacer and small washer spacers on the bolt to get it tight and allow for adjustment. There should be spacers behind the clutch as well. Removing and adding spacers on the bolt and behind the clutch is how the alignment with the primary is set. Using a straight edge across the back of the primary, the space from the straight edge to the back of the secondary should be 5/8".

There should be a bit of freeplay on the clutch, the bearing is not designed to be side-loaded and the float prevents that. The freeplay also assists somewhat in belt alignment.

http://parts.polarisind.com/Browse/B...&Model=0940767

This will take you to the Polaris website, it will show the breakdown of how the parts go together. Look in the "drivetrain assembly" to find the pic.

2017 SKS 800, 2007 Dragon RMK 700 155", 2008 RMK 600 155", 95 Prowler 550 2-up, Really OLD AC Cheetah

http://www.avalanche.org/accidents.php
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post #51 of 57 (permalink) Old 09-06-2013, 10:42 AM Thread Starter
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The jackshaft shouldn't come flush to the end of the clutch. There should be a large spacer and small washer spacers on the bolt to get it tight and allow for adjustment. There should be spacers behind the clutch as well. Removing and adding spacers on the bolt and behind the clutch is how the alignment with the primary is set. Using a straight edge across the back of the primary, the space from the straight edge to the back of the secondary should be 5/8".

There should be a bit of freeplay on the clutch, the bearing is not designed to be side-loaded and the float prevents that. The freeplay also assists somewhat in belt alignment.
Thanks BC

There are two washer on the secondary clutch bolt - one large and one small. The thing is when I test fit the clutch the first time there was about 1"+ before the shaft would come flush with the outer of the secondary...I knew that wasn't right.

I just looked at the 85-95 shop manual for final drive servicing and it makes sense to me. Thanks for the tip on secondary alignment.

I still don't get how the set screw marks as so far down the shaft. There is no way I could put the collar back in that spot and not have a 1" hole/gap in the secondary.
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post #52 of 57 (permalink) Old 09-06-2013, 06:48 PM Thread Starter
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I figured it out looking at the drive train assembly parts diagram about the spacer. Mine's gone!!! I must have skipped right over that part when you wrote it BC!

There is a spacer that goes in between the jackshaft and the washers - part #5020291. It seems to be there so that there is room to slide the clutch in between the shaft and the belly pan.

I suppose it's sitting on the catch pad at the shop where I had it pressed out (there were several spare parts in that area and we spent 5 minutes looking for flange bolts). Going to Orlando for a week this Sunday so I suppose it will be long gone before I can get back there during business hours. I guess worse comes to worse I get one from the bone yard or eBay.

I was looking at the cam adjuster on the front too and it's bent from pressing it out. It was set at 2 so when the clutch was compressed that's the area that gave first. I wonder if it would be worth trying to straighten it out or just get one of those too?

Last edited by mrbizplan; 09-06-2013 at 07:01 PM. Reason: Give BC credit for figuring out the problem.
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post #53 of 57 (permalink) Old 09-06-2013, 08:53 PM
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You can find whole clutches with the bolt for 25 bucks at the swap meets or on ebay. It may be cheaper than buying the cam adjuster. Without that spacer, there's a BIG ol' gap, ehh? I can imagine you would be scratching your head over that one!

2017 SKS 800, 2007 Dragon RMK 700 155", 2008 RMK 600 155", 95 Prowler 550 2-up, Really OLD AC Cheetah

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post #54 of 57 (permalink) Old 09-06-2013, 10:17 PM Thread Starter
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You can find whole clutches with the bolt for 25 bucks at the swap meets or on ebay. It may be cheaper than buying the cam adjuster. Without that spacer, there's a BIG ol' gap, ehh? I can imagine you would be scratching your head over that one!
I have access to a secondary from a 95 XLT special that according to the manual is identical. I'd still like to get that spacer and take both clutches apart and pick/choose the best parts from each.

What I really can't figure out is this; I could see the keyway. almost flush with the clutch when I had it pressed off...the pics I've seen of spacers have no keyway. Is it possible the PO just tightened the clutch pulling the jackshaft almost flush with the outer clutch sheave?

Unless I had a spacer with a keyway?

Confused...

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post #55 of 57 (permalink) Old 09-07-2013, 07:45 AM
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I have never seen a spacer with a keyway. What you described is possible, which could explain why the clutch was so difficult to remove. Check the jackshaft support to make sure it's not damaged or bent at a wrong angle when you put everything back together...

2017 SKS 800, 2007 Dragon RMK 700 155", 2008 RMK 600 155", 95 Prowler 550 2-up, Really OLD AC Cheetah

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post #56 of 57 (permalink) Old 09-07-2013, 10:00 AM
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There is no spacer with a keyway. There is a 2 1/2" long keyway you slide on after you slide the clutch on


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post #57 of 57 (permalink) Old 09-07-2013, 10:54 AM Thread Starter
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There is no spacer with a keyway. There is a 2 1/2" long keyway you slide on after you slide the clutch on


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Yep...I've got the 2.5" keyway, I've got the key but what I'm saying is the clutch was pressed on so that the end of the shaft was almost flush with the face of the clutch. There was only enough room for one spacer and one washer before I had it pressed off.

I wonder if that is why last winter the sled had trouble getting going when the clutches would initially engage? If you didn't hammer the throttle sometimes it would smoke the belt. I thought something was iced up but I suppose the clutch was all out of alignment.

So at this point I'm going to strip that other clutch and parts off my uncles 95 XLT, take them both apart and use the best parts from each.

Have a good week all...going to Orlando for work and taking the family with me. Should be hot and muggy but fun anyway!
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