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post #21 of 57 (permalink) Old 08-26-2013, 10:48 AM
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I had this problem on one of my Polaris xlts and just cut the clutch off and bought a good used one from ebay for about 30 bucks, you prob have more than that in penetrating oils.... to each his own

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post #22 of 57 (permalink) Old 08-26-2013, 11:07 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by polarbag85 View Post
I had this problem on one of my Polaris xlts and just cut the clutch off and bought a good used one from ebay for about 30 bucks, you prob have more than that in penetrating oils.... to each his own
I'm glad you chimed in. For sure I have more than that when you count the nuts/bolts/meal plate, etc. But you sort of do this one thing at a time and it all adds up...

I thought about that too when I think of taking off the belly pan and getting it pressed out. I'd have to pay for the new rivets, rivet gun, the cost to have it pressed.

Up to this point it's been sort of a challenge more than the money but that time is ending. I have another secondary clutch from my uncle's junked XLT that I could get for free (though I don't know if his is stuck on too).

When you cut it, what did you use? I have a sawzall and angle grinder with cutting wheel. Did you disassemble anything first (any of the screws on the front or back of the clutch or just start cutting the sheaves until you got close to the shaft? Or maybe cut down the key way and peel it off?
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post #23 of 57 (permalink) Old 08-27-2013, 06:49 AM
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yeah we definitely disassembled as much as we could saving the helix, spring, ect. once apart we just started with the cutting wheel and started cutting pieces off until we got close to the shaft and then used a chisel to pop the part that covers the shaft and we made sure we were right on top of the keyway. that way if we did cut a little deep we didn't hurt the shaft. once we got it to "pop" it came off and new clutch and keyway was replaced . . .

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post #24 of 57 (permalink) Old 08-27-2013, 07:00 AM
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post #25 of 57 (permalink) Old 08-27-2013, 07:51 AM
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Polarisbag, how we're you able to save the helix and spring when there is a snap ring behind them and they would slide towards the bulkhead? It is physically impossible to take a helix and spring off without the clutch being removed, not to mention there is generally only a half an inch between the back side of the helix and bulkhead


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post #26 of 57 (permalink) Old 08-27-2013, 10:37 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Polaris650freak View Post
Polarisbag, how we're you able to save the helix and spring when there is a snap ring behind them and they would slide towards the bulkhead? It is physically impossible to take a helix and spring off without the clutch being removed, not to mention there is generally only a half an inch between the back side of the helix and bulkhead


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I wondered that myself but perhaps if you cut the clutch surgically enough you could slide those off after cutting the outer plates? Once you got through the outer shieve who knows what's possible.

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post #27 of 57 (permalink) Old 08-27-2013, 11:00 PM
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The 97 XLT chassis had a slot cut (just barely wider than the jack shaft 1 1/8") out of the bulkhead so that you could lift out the jack shaft with the clutch attached. I have been putting a slot in all of the older machines that I did last winter. If you'd take the 3 nuts off that hold the ptp side bearing on the jackshaft, then you could slide the jackshaft toward the belly pan and then cut the slot like I have done. Then lift out the shaft and get it pressed out of your driven. I can take a picture of a 97 bulkhead if you'd like to see what I'm talking about. I could stick a chaincase and jackshaft in it so that you could better visualize what I'm trying to describe.
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post #28 of 57 (permalink) Old 08-27-2013, 11:06 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by steepndeep View Post
The 97 XLT chassis had a slot cut (just barely wider than the jack shaft 1 1/8") out of the bulkhead so that you could lift out the jack shaft with the clutch attached. I have been putting a slot in all of the older machines that I did last winter. If you'd take the 3 nuts off that hold the ptp side bearing on the jackshaft, then you could slide the jackshaft toward the belly pan and then cut the slot like I have done. Then lift out the shaft and get it pressed out of your driven. I can take a picture of a 97 bulkhead if you'd like to see what I'm talking about. I could stick a chaincase and jackshaft in it so that you could better visualize what I'm trying to describe.
Man...that would be a huge help! Pictures would be great although I think I can get an idea in my head of what it would look like. Does the bearing "bridge" the gap for structure?

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post #29 of 57 (permalink) Old 08-28-2013, 10:53 PM Thread Starter
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I tried another turn this evening but that thing ain't moving. I don't think it's budged at all.

Tomorrow I'll give it one last crank and then start disassembling the chaincase gear, disk break, pto bearing and prepare to cut a surgical slot above the shaft once I have it loose and the bearing out of the way.

Once I have it out where does a guy go to find a shop press? Just call around?

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post #30 of 57 (permalink) Old 08-29-2013, 04:24 AM
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Any machine shop, dealer, or farm implement repair shop would have one.

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post #31 of 57 (permalink) Old 08-29-2013, 09:53 PM Thread Starter
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I started tonight with removal of the chaincase cover, gears, chain and brake caliper. I would have gotten further but I dropped a brake caliper bolt under the engine along the coolant hoses but against the bulkhead so that was a 45 min adventure.

So if I understand correctly I have to remove the three bolts that hold the clutch side bearing on and loosen that collar on the same side. Then will the brake disk allow enough room to get the mag side of the jackshaft out of the case or do I have to remove the whole case, oil jug, coolant jug to allow room to slide the jackshaft over so I can start cutting the slot?

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post #32 of 57 (permalink) Old 08-30-2013, 11:32 AM Thread Starter
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Anyone have an idea?

I also noticed a circlip on the top bearing / chain case side. Does this need to come out to slide it out the back?

Any help before I get too far and break something would be appreciated.

Donovan
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post #33 of 57 (permalink) Old 08-30-2013, 08:11 PM Thread Starter
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OK guys I got the jackshaft out of the sled!

It was way more work than I thought it would be but it is out.

First I dropped the skid. The third nut that is in the tunnel is a real bugger to get at with the track in the way. I was going to replace some bearings on the skid anyway so I thought I'd kill two birds.

However at this point after I tipped the sled back level I looked down and found these two thing on the bottom of the belly pan.



The silver one fits the lower drive shaft in the chain case so I assume that's where it goes behind the gear. The rubber one...no clue. It seems to fit the shaft that the chain case tensioner rides on. Any help? In the mean time I'll check out the chain case parts fiche.

Once I got that out the jackshaft would move about 1" before it hit the brake disc. So I pulled the chain case out which wasn't too bad except the hoses are pretty much totally in the way. The good news is everything in the chain case looks excellent - bearings are smooth as glass.

So now I was able to move the secondary away from the bulk head and cut the slot. After that was done I tried to finagle it out but the coolant bottle, oil bottle and gas line shutoff bracket and the steering shaft are in the way with the brake disc still attached.



So I removed the two bottles, and bent the gas bracket out of the way. Then I removed the two screws under the top of the steering shaft and loosened the four at the bottom. This was enough to squeeze it out.

Here is what I got now:



If I loosen the collar on the jackshaft on the clutch side will it slide down the shaft toward the disc break or is the shaft notched there? How exactly do I get this bearing and collar out of the way to get it pressed out?

Thanks for any help anyone can offer.
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post #34 of 57 (permalink) Old 08-30-2013, 08:27 PM Thread Starter
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According to the parts fiche the silver ring is a bushing - Chaincase Item #20 Part #7555864 BUSHING(10)

I looked for the rubber thing on both the brake and chain case parts diagram and I'm not seeing it there.

Edit ------

I found that too. Rubber grommit for the metal were the coolant bottle attaches at the bottom.

Now I just need to figure out were to go from here.

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post #35 of 57 (permalink) Old 08-30-2013, 11:40 PM
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The bearing should stay in place while the shaft is pressed out of the driven. If you want to get the bearing collar off, lossen set screw/s. If there are two usually the collar and bearing are one piece, if there is only one and there is another non-threaded hole opposite then the collar needs to the tapped in the opposite direction that it was locked on. This can usually be determined by looking at the afore mentioned hole to see what direction it was tapped when the collar was locked to the bearing. I apologize for not getting you some pictures but I got dispatched to a forest fire just after I posted my last reply.
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post #36 of 57 (permalink) Old 08-30-2013, 11:50 PM Thread Starter
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The bearing should stay in place while the shaft is pressed out of the driven. If you want to get the bearing collar off, lossen set screw/s. If there are two usually the collar and bearing are one piece, if there is only one and there is another non-threaded hole opposite then the collar needs to the tapped in the opposite direction that it was locked on. This can usually be determined by looking at the afore mentioned hole to see what direction it was tapped when the collar was locked to the bearing. I apologize for not getting you some pictures but I got dispatched to a forest fire just after I posted my last reply.
I'm trying to figure out how the clutch can be pressed off with the bearing in place. What do you place the bottom plate of the press against? I can't imagine being able to get between the bearing and the clutch where it wraps around the shaft and I doubt you would want to press against the bearings. I figured you would have to move the collar and bearing out of the way to get as close to the shaft as possible when pressing it out.
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post #37 of 57 (permalink) Old 08-31-2013, 08:04 PM Thread Starter
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My bearing has two set screws. Does that mean it should just slide once they are loose? I took the set screws out totally and am soaking the collar in PB Blaster.

Should I use a punch in one of those holes or will I mess up the threads? Or should I thread the set screws back in a little and use the punch against that?

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post #38 of 57 (permalink) Old 09-02-2013, 07:43 PM
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Put the shaft in a vice and see if you can twist the collar with a pair of channel locks or pipe wrench. Might have to clean any rust and possibly the paint off yhe shaft to get the bearing to slide towatd the brake disc. Shouldn't have to move it too far (3/4-1") so that you can get plates behind driven to press the shaft out.
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post #39 of 57 (permalink) Old 09-02-2013, 08:11 PM
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You guys are way over thinking!
You slide the clutch in the press and set the helix on the press plates and press the shaft out, after you get the clutch off than you worry about the bearing



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post #40 of 57 (permalink) Old 09-02-2013, 08:31 PM Thread Starter
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I just don't want to damage anything. I was thinking the best place to press against would be the sleeve that is rusted to the shaft...so I'm trying to get the bearing out of the way.

I went through all this work to save the clutch I'd hate to damage it at this stage of the game. On a side note to anyone considering this route just cut the dang thing off. I wish I would have.

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