just run it on regular till your refill it with premium, unless the gas is real old then id drain it, I run premium as well but if its crazy cold out I'll run it in the regular position as well in case its running on the lean side. The premium setting just ups your timing a notch. As for your oil Ive always gone with a full synthetic just because your power valves stay cleaner longer, but if you dont mind pulling them for extra cleanings go ahead and run the semi its your choice.
Seeing you have the same sled as me (well almost) heres some stuff to look at if you wanna get the most from your machine.
almost FREE MODS
1) Check your belt to primary sheave side clearance, should be .010" to .015" w/NEW belt, mine was .070" from the factory.
2) Install a new primary clutch spring @ the start of every season. (approx $31.00)
3) ALMOND/red stripe SPRING (POLARIS part # 7041988)
a) 66 gram stock weights, OR
b) SLP's 68 gram MTX'S with 3 grams in the tip, plus 2 to 3 grams in the middle, slight improvement over 66's
4) Send your primary clutch out to have it balanced. Since these sleds have a bad rep for wasting the crankshafts, put a dial indicator on the crank snout (remove primary) and periodically check the run-out. 002"-.0025" is the MOST I would want to see. Made a NOTICEABLE improvement in smoothness and extends crankshaft and clutch life, they drilled 8-9 lightening holes in mine, that's how far off it was from the factory!! SLP and others charge only $35.00 for this service. Do this after you've set the belt to sheave clearance.
1) Install a new secondary clutch spring @ the start of every season. (approx $31.00)
2) Stock SOLID BLUE Secondary Spring with R-49 Helix, (POLARIS Part # 5133023)
3) Replace the (3) little plastic wear buttons, they're approx $ 1.00 each
Roller Secondary TSS-98 or TSS-04
1) Install (1) DELRIN washer under the spring cup in your secondary clutch (less than $5.00)
2) Helix 70-42.46 duration SLP part # 50-90
3) Secondary spring 140/200 Red/Dark Blue SLP part # 50-4
The old style button clutch was faster on top end
BOTH PRIMARY & SECONDARY
1) Align your clutches (offset, center to center, and check for engine "crooked"), mine and my bud's were off!!!! You may have to shim behind the rear engine bracket(s) to get it perfect. Use thin Chevrolet style starter shims available @ Auto Parts stores under the “HELP” brand.
2) Lightly sand both primary and secondary clutches w/180 grit perpendicular to the way the belt rides and wipe down w/lacquer thinner.
3) Wash/scrub (plastic bristle brush) your BRAND NEW belt w/soap & hot water, and let dry overnight, sounds weird, but it removes the "mold release" compound that would otherwise would get smeared all over your nice clean clutches.
4) I prefer the #3211087 belt, it's a CLOSE TOLERANCE version of the #3211080
1) SLP push engine limiter MAG side ($47.95) SLP part # 23-50 (E-Z 20 minute installation, only one hole to drill into your aluminum bulkhead)
2) WMS Engine torque arm, P.T.O. side, in front of the engine. ($82.95) sold also by SLP part #23-53 (E-Z bolt-on installation, no holes to drill)
T.P.S. CHECKING & RE-SETTING PROCEDURE (easier than you think)
1) Check/reset your T.P.S. Pretty E-Z to do, build a tester for $10. Make sure you have EXACTLY 5.0 VOLTS FOR TESTING PURPOSES. Don't overlook this!
2) For those that don't want to build a T.P.S. tester, I just purchased a T.P.S. tester (manufactured by KENT-MOORE / SPX) from my local POLARIS dealer for $48.76 PART # 2201519-A Comes with the pigtail, 2 plug ends, 5 volt regulator, harness. All you need then is a 9-volt battery and a voltmeter. Works on sleds, ATV's & Rangers
3) The EDGE's get set at WIDE OPEN THROTTLE, spec is 4.0-4.1 volts.
4) Move the throttle gradually from idle to full throttle and back down again while watching the needle on your analog style voltmeter as you want it to move gradually in synch with the throttle, an erratic needle reading indicates a faulty T.P.S. and replace if necessary.
CHAIN-CASE and GEARS and CHAIN TENSION
1), Stock factory gearing is 25/40, change the bottom gear to (41), same 76 pitch chain still fits, less of a dog leg, acceleration improves a little, no loss in top end.
2) Check your chain tension in the chain case, adjust it to where the chain will almost touch the backside of the case w/finger pressure. While you're in the chain case place a metal straight edge onto the sprockets to make sure they're EXACTLY in line. Shim with thin 1" I.D. shims available from auto cylinder head shops, used as valve spring shims. Same shims also fit onto the secondary shaft for getting the offset "dialed in"
1) Clean your exhaust valves AND bores, their dirtier and gummier than you think. While you're there check the bellows for small rips and tears.
2) The original exhaust valves are aluminum, which were prone to failure and severe engine damage could result. Then they went to titanium, and the latest and greatest are Stainless Steel, identifiable by the heavier weight and "relief cut outs"
3) The original exhaust bellows were blue, the latest and greatest bellows are Orange in color.
4) POLARIS part # 2202838 (order two kits) includes stainless valve, orange bellow, and 1 exhaust spring, it's only enough parts for one cylinder (chances are its done already)
OTHER: OIL PUMP CALIBRATION, TRACK TENSION, MAINTENANCE:
1) Check your oil pump calibration , mine was 38:1 stock, 55:1 to 60: 1 is better.
2) Run your track looser that specs, approx 1" to 1 1/2" sag just sitting there on the stand.
COLD START TIP
On the night before, use the choke to "kill" the engine instead of the switch. The fuel dilutes/washes the oil off of the cylinder wall and makes starting the engine on a cold morning so much easier.
1) Check ski alignment, 1/8" toe out is preferred
2) Check out www.bergstromskis.com
Very informative site, especially the info on shimming the stock skis to eliminate the "darting" issue instead of purchasing a $350.00 pair of skis
SLP Big Air Kit and Flo-Rites, ($42.95 + (2) X $19.95= approx $83.00) E-Z to install , I just didn't notice any difference that's all. However, they do cause a noticeable increase in intake noise, if you like your sled quiet, don't do this mod.
WASTE OF $$$$$ I.M.O.
1) V-Force reeds, maybe slightly more responsive on it's best day, V-force's were definitely NOT worth the $258.00 and installation time!!
2) Aftermarket Silencers, even with the weight reduction, they'll slow you down and for those of you who think it's "cool" remember that next time you come across a "trail closed" sign
3) Boost bottles