600 XLT up and running! (finally) - Snowmobile Forum: Your #1 Snowmobile Forum

ringneckryan · 01-17-2013, 01:13 AM

My 600 XLT is rockin now! The problem was what you guys said all along and that was the carbs. I took them apark many times and cleaned them and then cleaned them again. What I did not do was take the frickin choke plungers out. In two of the three carbs the chokes were totally siezed open causing my over fueling issue. I had it in my head it was jets or needle settings or floats but nope it was the dang choke plungers. I was about pullin my hair out with this sled but it was what the old pros said all along - carbs. Take em totally 100% apart and THUROUGHLY CLEAN EVERYTHING. Incuding choke plungers. That is lesson #1.

Now when I go flat out on the lake I am only pullin 65-70 mph. I think 80 isnt out of the question...am I wrong? It is a 95 XLT that has 115 psi all the way across and it fitted with SLP pipes. I took the primary clutch apart and cleaned with engine degreaser and scotch bright the surfaces until it was factory shiny. The sled has sit for a long period of time so I am thinking that maybe the spring has lost some tension and might need replaced. It is a blue spring. No flat spots on the weights and the little rollers look and feel great. Could the spring being weak be my top speed issue? Or is top speed more the secondarys job? The sled is strong at 3/4 throttle and even a little more, but at full throttle is bogs slighly and loses a little power/speed... I have my slides synched and they open right too the top of the carb. Is that a little too much? I would like some input before I buy 400 bucks in new springs and weights for the clutches. My secondary is just cleaned as best I could without disassembly, that could be an issue as well I suppose, but I can pry it open and cleaned the surface it moves over when it opens with some scotch bright. The sufaces the belt rides on is smooth and clean as well. AND a new belt was installed. Thanks you for your help you guys. Your input and knowledge has helped HUGE! Thanks again.

ringneckryan · 01-17-2013, 01:22 AM

I would also like the know about fuel milage. If I have my oil pump set properly (timing marks) should I be able to use a full tank of fuel without running out of oil? That would be a crime if I siezed up that motor because it used too much oil and used only 3/4 of a tank of fuel. And talking to my buddys (who ride a lot) they say I will only be able to run about 35 miles to a tank. Is that right? Doesnt seem far... The tank holds a pile of gas!! I figured 50 miles but they say im dreaming. What do you guys think? I guess it would depend on my driving style but 35 miles seems low to me.

**RJ Gleason** · 01-17-2013, 07:41 AM

Your oil consumption would be correct, you should get 1 1/2 tank of gas to a full tank of oil.

At WTO, what rpm is the engine running?
From your description, I suspect that you are actually over revving which means that after 3/4 throttle, you are just wasting gas.
Properly tuned and at trail speeds, you should expect to get at least 100 miles to a tank of gas.

white lightning · 01-17-2013, 07:46 AM

35miles to a tank? YIKES - with my XCR8 and I am not too easy on the throttle either - Id get about 80+miles on a tank. You should be able to get about the same. You should be going more faster than what your sled is going now. Heres what I would do .. first, take all the clutch stuff out and see what you have exactly - call SLP and ask them for clutching spec for your sled - is everything the same?? Also maybe your drivebelt is worn. With SLP pipes - you should be revving at 9k WL

ringneckryan · 01-17-2013, 10:40 AM

RJ - When I juice the throttle at lower speed (10-30 mph) the rpm will jump right up to 9000-9400 and stay there until I get to almost 70mph then the engine starts to lose some power and the revs drop to around 8400. I should put in some new plugs in. The plugs I have in are spare plugs that I had. They werent beautiful but they were only ones I had. I fouled my new ones trying to properly jet my carbs and started very rich (250). I have 240's in it now and will put in 230's just to try. Maybe thats part of my top speed problem but as I said, my engine will definatly get over that 9000 rmp mark then drop off as my speed climbs.

'Properly tuned at trail speeds'....trail speeds in my area are about that 70-75 mph. This is very flat farm land out where I live (smooth, no rocks) with a couple huge, long lakes and a very wide winding river that any rider can easily do 60 on comfortably. People that sled around here a nuckin futs (haha) with their speeds I figure but all sleds can do 70mph easy it seems like, so guys think thats slow. Most cruise around 80mph.

WL - ya 35 miles seems nuts. But when you think about it, they all have AT LEAST an 800cc sled. Most are 900's and 1000's. Turbo charged this and ported that with pipes and high comp pistons and AV gas. These guys around here are crazy. It is just a big pissin contest who has the fastest sled, who can go to the rockies and who can make the best high mark blah blah blah. With engines like that which DEMAND fuel then maybe 35 miles is a long trip. I have been to the SLP website and found info that says for my set up at my elevation, I need a blue spring and 10M White weights. I know I have the spring but dont know if I have the proper weights. I will have to take apart and look. I did install and new drive belt. It wasnt 'new off the shelf' but it is a spare new one that has never been used. Maybe is to old and dried out. Do you think a new off the shelf belt will be different?

joshkidner · 01-17-2013, 11:34 AM

I believe with slp pipes max should be 9200, and not when you take off. Stock is 8200ish i believe.

edge800ves · 01-17-2013, 12:26 PM

Just a side note, you should wash your new belt in soapy water, and hold off opening your sled right up for a while. Some people dont realize belts have a break in period too.. thats if you want it too last. Plus with a new belt you may have to adjust your secondary shimming somewhat. If you look at your belt on your secondary you want aprox a millimeter or so of your belt to clear the top(of secondary) when you've come to a rolling stop.

ringneckryan · 01-17-2013, 12:30 PM

the belt on the senondary does stick up above the pulley (shives whatever they are called) slightly. I never looked when I came to a rolling stop but noticed when I put the new belt on it was about the secondary a bit. Do I soak it in soapy water for a while or just give it a bit of a rinse?

edge800ves · 01-17-2013, 12:49 PM

just a quick wash, the factory coats them with a glaze, which will glaze your clutches. thats what your cleaning it for. i use soapy water and a scotchbright and just clean the sides off good. Sounds like your belts shimmed properly for a new belt though from what you saw.

ringneckryan · 01-17-2013, 12:56 PM

thanks edge! go moose!

**RJ Gleason** · 01-17-2013, 01:36 PM

When you wash it, use a green scrubbie on it too to help clean the release agent off.

I am thinking that maybe your secondary might need a new or stiffer spring too.

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white lightning · 01-18-2013, 11:09 AM

SLP pipes calls for 9k .. PSI runs higher at 9.2k

ringneckryan - Youre right, riding in the rockies is different than us flatlander riding so I guess that would make sense why youre getting 35miles on a tank. Do I think you need a new belt - lets hold that thought for now til we take care of other issues first .. lets do one step at a time and see if your clutching spec is setup for riding in the rockies. Your carbs has to be setup right & sync as well. Go from there and see how the sled runs then. WL

PS - I agree with RJ's posts.

ringneckryan · 01-18-2013, 02:02 PM

im not getting 35 miles to a tank. the guys with mountain sleds and 200 hp+ engines are getting that when they ride around on flatlands. I dont know how far I can go on a tank. I want this thing to run perfect before I go on any pokers rallys or long trips. I have no desire to go to the mountains. Im not ok with avalanche risks and high marks at 9000 feet!

I asked in one of my previous posts if my slides are set to high. Carbs are synched to open to the roof and that maybe my over rev problem?? I have not taken the secondary clutch apart yet as I have not had time, but finding out what weights I have in the primary and what spring I have in the secondary are first on my list. Josh is correct in saying 9200 should be max. I have hit 94-9500 in the few test rides I have done around the shop. If I can get stuff done today I maybe able to have time tonight for another tear down. I am pretty quick now at tearing that thing down I have done it so many times!! haha. I bet I can swap and engine in 45 mins or rejet the carbs in 20!!

ringneckryan · 01-20-2013, 10:58 PM

I took the secondary apart after church today. Things look good in there. It is a red spring that it has installed. It looks old and so does the blue in the primary so im just gonna order new ones and be done messin around with it. The colours that are in it are the colours that SLP reccomends so I am gonna go that route as a starting point. Fresh belt will be ordered too.

Polaris7984 · 02-03-2013, 09:59 PM

Had a similar issue with choke plungers in my '97 XLT. They weren't seating correctly because whoever put them back in the carbs last set the hex nuts at different depths! The springs weren't fully compressing to push the plungers back down when switching off the choke.

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steepndeep · 02-03-2013, 11:02 PM

My stock 95 XLT ran 10M white weights and a blue spring so I would contact your pipe manufacturer and get their clutching recommendations. I was getting 110-120 miles per tank out here running at 6000-9000'.