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Old 01-07-2013, 06:43 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Back again!! No Spark???

2000 xc sp 500
Started it up the other day to let it warm up. Let it run for 5mins or 10mins and while trying to take off it died. I started it back up and it ran for a few mins and died again. I thought it was out of gas so I put a couple gals in and tried to start it. I would not start. I must have pulled it a hundred times (atleast it felt like it LOL). Today I pulled the plugs thinking it was flooded. The plugs were wet but I laid them on a head bolt and pulled a few times and noticed I wasn't getting a spark in either plug. I'm at a loss, what do I check first? I read that the cdi could be bad and the aftermarket cdi's less expensive. Who sells them? What are some tests to do?
This snowmobile thing is starting to get depressing lol I haven't even registered the thing and am now debating if I should bother spending the money!
Thanks for the help
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Old 01-07-2013, 10:13 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Is the throttle lever returning all the way so there is very little gap between lever and the block? If not, you are triggering the sensor and it will cause it not to have spark.


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Old 01-07-2013, 11:20 PM   #3 (permalink)
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The thumb throttle has a saftey switch in it, sometimes if theres too much play in the cable or if its not returning all the way it can do that. I had the same problem on a couple of my sleds. Its designed to kill the motor if you tip over on the sled so the throttle doesnt pin wide open. Worth taking a look at.
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Old 01-07-2013, 11:45 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Thanks I will look at that tomorrow.
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Old 01-08-2013, 04:27 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Checked out the throttle switch and no luck.
1. Is there a way to test the coil and cdi or do I need to just bite the bullet and buy them.
2. If so is one more likely the cause than the other?
3. My part number on the cdi is 4010231. Do other part numbers work or just other sled models with the same part number? Is there a aftermarket part that is cheaper?
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Old 01-08-2013, 05:37 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Disconnect the throttle kill switch completely to see if that's causing the issue. If it works, you know where the issue is.

Unscrew both of the plug boots from the wires. If the wires inside of the insulation appears to be cracked, broken, or even "missing", clip back the wires about 1/4" and screw the boots back in tight.

Check the boots in terms of how the connect to the plugs. They should "snap" on tightly and not move around a lot. If there's a lot of play, you could be getting poor connection and weak spark.

Check your plugs - especially if they have the screw-on tops. If they do, be sure that those are screwed down tight.

If you have a multi-meter, test the plugs for continuity to make sure that something isn't broken internally.
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Old 01-08-2013, 07:54 PM   #7 (permalink)
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I will check the wires and boots tomorrow. The plugs are new out of the box (so were the ones I took off). The boots do snap on tightly so I don't think that is an issue. When I unplug the kill switch does that by-pass it or do I need to jump something?
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Old 01-08-2013, 08:00 PM   #8 (permalink)
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The kill switch works by shorting the circuit to stop the sled. So, disconnecting it will leave that part of the circuit open. No need to jump anything.
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Old 01-10-2013, 11:50 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Ok tried it without the kill switch hooked up. Still no spark. I was going to look at the stator and see if a ground wire was off but for the life of me I can't find the thing. So what is next? I did order a coil and a cdi so I can swap those out when they come in.
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Old 01-10-2013, 01:48 PM   #10 (permalink)
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If you want to do more testing while waiting for the CDI, you can actively test your TSS and kill switch as follows (you'll need an ohm meter):

With the motor off, unplug the harness from the back of the key switch. There should be two wires in there - connect the leads of the ohm meter to them (digital meters won't matter for polarity, analog meters might).

- Put the kill switch in the "down" position. Move the throttle lever while checking the meter readings. It should basically be zero all the time.

- Put the kill switch in the "up" (run) position. Squeeze the throttle fully (WOT) and you should see a reading that indicates an open circuit (infinite impedance).

- Put the kill switch in the "up" (run) position. "Force" the throttle lever all the way open (grab the tip and pull it toward you, forcing the closer part to press against the block while the further away part pulls away from the block). You should see an indication of an open circuit again.

- Release the throttle lever completely and take note of the reading as you let go. If you get a reading of some sort (as opposed to an indication of open circuit), then you have too much slack in your cable.

If you need to adjust the cable freeplay, use a feeler gauge to get it to .020". If there's too much slack in the cable, neither of the microswitches in the throttle block will ever be depressed at idle and the sled won't fire.

You could also try zip tieing the throttle part-way open to see if you can get spark at the plugs.
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Old 01-10-2013, 03:08 PM   #11 (permalink)
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basically all he needs to do is leave it where it is (the throttle) and test it with the button up (on) if he gets a reading something is wrong. then we can go into what meburdick suggested doing to see exactly what the problem is.
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Old 01-10-2013, 05:57 PM   #12 (permalink)
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I have friends that drive ski-doo and when they blow a stator the head light does not light when you pull it over. When the stator is good the light will light when you pull it over. I do not know if this applies to polaris. There are ohms readings that they do and they get the numbers and wire colours to test from the dealers.
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Old 01-10-2013, 06:18 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Here's what Polaris says to do...

Use the Troubleshooting doc for the steps and the other for the test measurements.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf Stator Troubleshooting.pdf (201.8 KB, 158 views)
File Type: pdf Stator Resistance.pdf (201.6 KB, 128 views)
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Old 01-10-2013, 07:42 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Didn't I rule out the TSS and Kill switch when I uplugged it and got no spark?
I did find out where the stator was lol....hidden behind the recoil.
I'm such a newb at this!!
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Old 01-10-2013, 08:13 PM   #15 (permalink)
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For the extra couple of minutes involved here, I would suggest conducting the tests as listed by Polaris. That way, you'll know for sure.
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Old 01-11-2013, 11:46 AM   #16 (permalink)
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Ok I got the meter out and did the tests. I think I did them right but I took pics just to be sure.
I also did a compression test and got 120 on one side and 115 on the other so I guess that's not too bad.
Here are the photos.
Here I have the kill switch on button down.

Here is Kill switch off button up.

Here is WOT Kill off

Here is Idle kill off
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Old 01-11-2013, 12:56 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Those are numbers that would fit with Polaris' guidance. The next step in their eyes is to replace the CDI.
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Old 01-11-2013, 05:08 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Well the CDI and the coil I ordered has been shipped. So I should be seeing those Mon. or Tues. I'll try the CDI first and then the coil. If those don't work I'll order a stator and go from there.
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Old 01-13-2013, 10:39 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Ok so a bit of good news today. I was going to do some meter readings on the stator. I found a sheet from the previous owners that has the electric schematics. So I found the stator connector and it was covered in oil. This is the white connector located under the oil tank. I pulled it apart and cleaned it inside and out with carb cleaner. Let it dry and added dielectric grease. I then tested for spark again and presto I've got spark!! I've had the gas shut off while I was testing and could not get it to start. I does fire right up if I put carb cleaner in the spark plug holes. So now I just have to get the gas back to the carbs. If I can't I'll pull the carbs off again and clean them and check the gas lines. How many pulls with full choke do you think it should take if I've had the gas? off?
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Old 01-14-2013, 05:07 AM   #20 (permalink)
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Put some premix into the plug holes and that will fill the carb bowls faster.
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