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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 01-04-2013, 09:02 PM Thread Starter
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600 XLT carb adjustments

Before a mod starts to tell me to look in the 'how to section' I already searched. It only brought up 499 results from all treads open that mention the word 'carb'.

The trouble is I want to know EXACTLY the step by step instructions spelled out like colouring book instructions (haha) of where to start. Asking a few of my buddies apparently there is an idle screw and an air/idle screw. I dont get why there is two screws for idle... I have a big screw with a spring on the side and a tiny screw below it. I am very paranoid about melting pistons so I havent really been out for an honest 'test ride' and push the sled limits and wont do so until I get everything adjusted perfect. I sould point out I understand the oil pump timing marks and how to adjust that, I am only worried about carb adjustments.

The sled is a 1995 600 XLT with 34mm roundslide carbs.
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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 01-04-2013, 10:51 PM
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Your air screws (brass) should be set at one full turn out from lightly bottomed. Your idle screws are the others you mentioned on the sides of the carbs. You'll need to remove the air box so you can see into each carb. What you want to do is back the idle screw all the way out. Then slowly start to turn it in until you see the slide inside of the carb rise, then back off until the the slide is bottomed. Repeat on the other 2 carbs. You will likely have to raise the idle by turning the idle screws in. Make sure to turn each one equally. I usually make a mark on each screw so I can tell what I've done.


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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 01-05-2013, 01:15 AM Thread Starter
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my sled doesnt idle unless i lightly hold the throttle. pilot jet problem or will adjusting this idle screw as per your instructions fix this? also these instructions you sent me is this also known as the 'slide cut away' adjustment?
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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 01-05-2013, 01:17 AM Thread Starter
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also I am to understand by mikunis website that too large or a main jet will affect my high range rev... true?
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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 01-05-2013, 09:02 AM
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If its been sitting very long you should soak the carbs fully disasembled to start.
You probably dont have the idle screws turned in enough. Once you get it to idle at 1800 rpm, you will need to adjust the throtle cables so all 3 slides rise at the same time and reach the top of the carb at the same time. Do this by sticking your fingers in the carbs and squeezing the throttle. Match the two outers to the center carb. Make adjustments where cables enter carbs. Check you tube for cleaning tutorials. I have a good link somewhere for sync instruction ill look for
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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 01-05-2013, 09:11 AM
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Read this
manuals/carbtune/carbtune.htm
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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 01-05-2013, 11:11 PM
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Agree with Hengst... You should clean the carbs. This will also help you get familiar with how everything works. Here is the link from the forum: http://www.ripperd.com/ftp/admins/carb_rebuild/

Also, check out the how to's section. There is a ton of info for you there.


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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 01-06-2013, 06:39 AM Thread Starter
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i found some info @kawtriple.com that is basic and easy to understand. Mikuni's website info is so terribly long and gets into every little detail it is easy to get lost after 2 paragraphs. The carbs were cleaned and blew out and cleaned again on day one as per the forums members advise on day 1. I have learned from talking to people and reading websites carbs are something that for every sled it different and they are something that takes an afternoon to tinker with and try different adjustments with. There is no simple fix with carbs because of compression, temp and a scwack of other variables.
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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 01-06-2013, 08:13 AM
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But if everything is stock, such as the pipes, very little adjustment is nesesary. Idle mixture should be 1 turn out. Slide needles can probably be left alone. Beyond that you shouldnt be at risk of melt down unless the jets have been changed or are varnished causing lean mixture. It took me some playing around to get my 600 synced but its real aparent if its not. Mine fluttered badly when idleing around at slow speed but wound up nice at full throttle before i got it right. You'll know when you've got it. The triples sing nicely when in sync.
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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 01-06-2013, 08:18 AM Thread Starter
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thats exactly what I did tho... Put on SLP pipes (against many peoples advise). There is either YES people or NO people to the question of pipes on this engine, no maybe people. I dont wanna melt the motor down but if I do its 500 bucks to rebuild which isnt bad i dont think. I see the new sleds are 15K so a 500 buck engine is cheap in my opinion.
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post #11 of 12 (permalink) Old 01-06-2013, 08:54 AM
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Then you have to start with richer jets and work your way back lean till its right. Lot more involved than just an adjustment. I've never done it. Maybe someone has some advice. All i can say is start rich, work back. Good luck!
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post #12 of 12 (permalink) Old 01-06-2013, 11:44 AM
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Your best bet there is to contact the pipe manufacturer and get their recommendations for jetting and clutching changes needed.

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