04 pro x 700- fuel pump?? - Snowmobile Forum: Your #1 Snowmobile Forum
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-31-2012, 08:20 AM Thread Starter
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04 pro x 700- fuel pump??

Okay guys so I just bought this sled a month or so ago and the former owner only put 57 miles on it in two seasons. I hit the trails on Friday and on my way back from a 100 mile trip it starts dogging hard if I pushed it over 40mph, earlier in the day it ran fine had it screamin' and it was very responsive, the overheat light was NOT coming on, it feels like a fuel issue. The one thing that has bugged me about this sled was the guy I bought it from said that I would have to be sure to shut the fuel line off everytime I stopped the sled or it would just dump fuel into the carbs and flood, I haven't owned a sled in a while but never remember having to worry about shutting the fuel line off. Does anyone else run into that with these models? I pulled the carbs off last night but haven't had time to clean them, one of the cylinders looks like it was getting a lot of fuel from what I can tell from the plugs and the airbox had quite a bit of fuel in the bottom of it when I pulled it out. I'm almost thinking it may be the fuel pump diaghragm or something with the pump.. any help would be greatly appreciated.. it also ran really rough at idle once this issue started.. prior to this it was running like a champ.
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-31-2012, 09:30 AM
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Sounds like a sticking fuel inlet needle/seat. When you take the carbs apart, check the needles.

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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 01-02-2013, 08:50 AM Thread Starter
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I got the carbs off, cleaned them and checked all the needles..although some looked a little grimey I soaked them all put it back together and then checked the fuel pump which looks fine..still having the same problem. This time I did put new plugs in and took it for a quick spin, I pulled the plugs and the sled appears to only be firing on one cylinder as one of the plugs looked untouched. I think I'm just going to bite the bullet and take it to our local shop to have them take a look.
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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 01-02-2013, 09:20 AM
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There are a number of things that could be going on... Some thing to check before you drag it off to the shop:

- Check the seat needles in the carbs really well. The case flooding out is typically the result of a needle not sealing the inlet correctly. While turning the fuel off while parked / trailering is something I always do, you want to be sure that your pump isn't overfilling the bowl during use either.
- Check the fuel pump to ensure it's delivering adequate and fairly even fuel to both carbs. Pull the outlet lines and put them in a jar or cup. Pull the sled over a few times and check to see that you're getting fuel out of both lines in fairly equal amounts. Rebuilding the fuel pump is a $10 job plus about 20 minutes of your time.
- Check the plug caps to be sure they are making good contact. It's common for them to wear out over the years and not snap tightly onto the plugs. See if you can wiggle them.
- If you're using plugs with screw-on caps, make sure they're tight. I use the solid-core plugs so that I don't have to worry about this, but the threaded cap plugs are just as reliable as long as they're tight.
- Check for good spark. An inline tester is the ideal way to validate that you're getting good spark. If one cylinder is weak, it could be a bad connection between the cap and the wire. Unscrew the cap from the wire, clip about 1/4" of the plug wire, and screw the cap back in.

If all of these things check out, you could have an air leak in the motor causing one plug to burn much more lean than the other one. Get it started and spray carb cleaner, brake cleaner, or similar all around the base of the motor where the case and the jugs meet. If the idle changes (increases) when you spray in one particular area, you have a bad seal.

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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 01-02-2013, 09:40 AM
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I vote for the bad needle and seat, bad float adjustment, or leaky pump diaphragm. Sounds like one cylinder is getting too much fuel. It shouldn't be necessary to shut off the fuel every time you stop to keep it from flooding. Also check for fuel in the vacuum pulse line to the fuel pump. If there is gas in the line then the pump needs to be rebuilt, especially if the cylinder that is flooding is the one that the vacuum pulse line is connected to.

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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 01-02-2013, 01:22 PM Thread Starter
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THANK YOU MEBURDICK!! I've been concentrating all my time on fuel/carburetor and I overlooked all the easy stuff. I went home for lunch today and hooked up the compression kit..both cylinders were good! I checked for spark and found only one plug getting spark, the boots were both good but one of the wires (the one not firing) was corroded and brittle, so much that when I cut the wire back to expose the wire pieces of wire were breaking off in my hand with the slightest touch. I stopped by the dealer and picked up new Bosch plug wires and plan to get them hooked up tonight. I'm sure that during my ride the wires must have broken down, this also explains why the problem was intermittent and why it ran fine during the first 80 miles.
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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 01-02-2013, 01:37 PM
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Glad you found something that you can work out yourself. Let us know how it goes!

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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 01-02-2013, 09:19 PM Thread Starter
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Well, unfortunately new wires and boots did not fix the issue..still no spark on one. I've at least got it narrowed down to an electrical issue just not sure where and how to proceed from here.
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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 01-02-2013, 09:28 PM
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Looks like you might have to dig "deeper" and check the CDI or the stator as those are (I believe) the next steps back from where you are so far. By far, the easiest check would be to swap on a known-good CDI to see if that does anything for you.

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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 01-03-2013, 10:05 AM Thread Starter
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So, I got the sled fired up to load up and take to the shop and now it won't move..track doesn't budge.. I know it doesn't have full power (only running on half but it should still turn the track..starting to get a little frustrated with this sled
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post #11 of 13 (permalink) Old 01-03-2013, 10:11 AM
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Get the track up on the air and get it to spin that way. Try and warm it up a little so there's less resistance to overcome when it's on the ground. Also, try taking some weight off of the skid if you can while you're trying to get it to move.

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post #12 of 13 (permalink) Old 01-04-2013, 11:29 AM Thread Starter
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CONCLUSION: CDI is smoked.. Question: now that I have to buy a new CDI unit should I opt for one mapped for an 800, will it give me any better performance? This pro x does have the perc rev system so I'm sure that plays into this as well. What would you guys do in this situation?
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post #13 of 13 (permalink) Old 01-04-2013, 11:36 AM
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The new 700 map should actually improve your performance.

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