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Old 12-26-2012, 09:19 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Front end on 2001 RMK 144

Hello Sled Heads!

I had an unfortunate accident this afternoon. i smashed the front end of my sled. Not to happy but am ok. So my question is, what years of sleds will cross over to my front end? I have a 2001 and need skis, bumper, trailing arms and some other parts have not got it torn totally apart yet.

Thanks for the help!
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Old 12-26-2012, 10:56 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Sounds like you hit something large... maybe a stump? Someone else can probably tell you what years/ models will work, but I would Start by looking on eBay, you can probably find most of the parts there, maybe even from your same model. if the parts are from a different model, get the part #'s and use the site below to check part #'s and see if they will work for your sled.

Discount OEM Parts: Arctic Cat, Yamaha, Honda, Polaris, Suzuki, Kawasaki, KTM, Ski Doo
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Old 12-27-2012, 01:11 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Find your sled here. Look for the front suspension parts diagram. On the left side of the screen, scroll the window with the part numbers to the left and you will see a usage tab. That will show the sleds with the same part numbers.

I looked at the trailing arms, all the 2000 and 2001 RMKs use the same part for those.
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Old 12-27-2012, 08:22 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Thank you very much guys this will be a big help in getting me back on the snow!

And to answer your question yes I did hit something very hard but not a stump. On the farm where I live we have a river that runs through it along with a bunch of abandoned river beds (Oxbows). I jumped out of the oxbow and the river bank was 10 feet from where I landed. I ended up going over the bank and dropping about 15 feet and slamming into the bank on the other side. I am sore today but more than anything depressed! Nothing sucks more than wrecking your toys!

Cheers from Canada!
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Old 12-27-2012, 09:30 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Glad you're ok!
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Old 12-28-2012, 03:23 PM   #6 (permalink)
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So I got my sled ripped apart last night and the damage is not as bad as i thought...I hope.

1st question, one ski is cracked do I/should I replace both?

2nd question, one shock is destroyed can I replace just one or should I do both?

Thanks,
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Old 12-28-2012, 03:35 PM   #7 (permalink)
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No need to replace both skis. You can replace one shock but sometimes the sled may be a little crooked, if you find a used set, just replace both shocks for an even ride.
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Old 12-28-2012, 03:52 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Thank you for the info!! That is the opposite of what I thought. Good thing I asked!

Cheers,
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Old 12-28-2012, 04:44 PM   #9 (permalink)
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X2 on hearing your okay. Hope ya get it fixed fast and back braapin
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Old 12-28-2012, 10:39 PM   #10 (permalink)
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I have checked my steering and it seems to be hitting the tank when I attempt to turn the skis left. Is taking out the curved bar the leads up to the handle bars a huge task? What is the best way to go about it?
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Old 12-28-2012, 10:48 PM   #11 (permalink)
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It's pretty easy if you pull the engine first...
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Old 12-28-2012, 10:49 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Is pulling the engine a hard task?
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Old 12-28-2012, 11:17 PM   #13 (permalink)
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When I had my 97 700, I had some experience pulling it and could go from totally in the sled to on the bench in about 45 minutes. Practice, practice, practice.

After draining the coolant (I use a small shop vac and suck it out of one of the top hoses) turn off the fuel and remove the exhaust, airbox, and carbs. You can probably keep the carbs attached to the cables, but if needed, you can unscrew the tops and move the D-slide/needle and cables out of the way. Disconnect the oil line from the oil pump and plug the line so you don't lose all the oil and make a mess. Disconnect the oil cable from the oil pump. Don't lose the c clip, those things will jump a LONG way. There is also a plastic bushing on the oil cable, don't lose that either.

Pull the recoil rope out and while it's out, attach a vice grip to it so it can't retract. Cut the rope from the handle right next to the handle and tie a figure 8 knot in the rope so if it retracts, it doesn't go into the recoil.

There are two motor mount bolts under the front Y pipe and two motor mounts on the back of the engine. Remove the nuts from the bolts under the Y pipe, remove the mounts from the chassis but leave the mounts attached to the engine on the carb side. Pull up, move the engine to the bench. That will give you total access to all the steering.

You also may find all sorts of interesting things under the engine, it's amazing what people drop and can't find.

When you put the new steering column in, make sure to use blue Loctite as well as a new Nylock nut on the nut that is at the bottom. Pretty much every Polaris sled I have taken the engine out of has had that nut loose, which makes the steering loose.

Use a torch or match to melt the end of the recoil rope so that the end does not fray. Secure the rope in the extended position after the engine is installed and push the end up into the handle, then tie a good knot. Make it tight so that it does not come loose. If the knot fails, the rope zings into that recoil housing faster than you can say the bad words that will be sure to come out of your mouth. If that happens, you get to learn how to start your sled using a strap or piece of rope wrapped around the primary clutch. Oh boy, new skills

The Liberty engine is pretty simple and easy to work on. A manual is helpful for the proper specs and procedures. Take LOTS of pics as you go, then you will know what it looked like before you worked on it.
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Old 12-29-2012, 12:02 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Thank you BC Dan!! I have already started will let you know if I run into any troubles! once again thanks!
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Old 01-05-2013, 10:56 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Ok, So I got the new parts everything installed engine put back. I cant get it started. i have had it going about 2 seconds then dies off.

Any suggestions??
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