98 700 rmk ( i think) ISSUES - Page 5 - Snowmobile Forum: Your #1 Snowmobile Forum

Trip · 01-03-2013, 12:55 PM

79 posts later??? still not fixed. Thinking it should be brought to a mechanic

JMO

littleredstroke · 01-03-2013, 02:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Trip

79 posts later??? still not fixed. Thinking it should be brought to a mechanic

JMO

Have you even read what's been talked about? Or are you just that much of a tool ? Obviously having not worked on this kinda stuff before I have questions.
Unfortunately I'm not like you, who just learns things by osmosis... Thanks for your awesome contribution to this thread
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Trip · 01-03-2013, 02:09 PM

That wasn't very nice.

And your welcome.

joshkidner · 01-03-2013, 02:55 PM

learning>having everything done for you. jus' sayin! now if we can just fix your issue!! (and maybe mine) my sled is giving me major issues. runs fine until its under a load. im puzzled. i hope you get yours going!!

ridgerunner · 01-03-2013, 08:35 PM

slp pipe install instructions are listed right on their website. the twin pipes will require better clutching and jetting, but slp is usually VERY conservative in their jetting so the engine will be rich with their settings. also, this 700 is a high compression engine and are legendary for popping and backfiring at start-up.

the oil pump is located by the rewind (pull start). it is a gear drive unit off the waterpump belt. if ther is no tank and no pump, just leave it premix.
1998 Polaris 700 RMK (0980966) Oil Pump 700 Rmk & European 700 Rmk E980966 | Babbitts Polaris Parts House

i have always had better luck with these engines with champion plugs than ngk. i don't now why, but the ngk just don't perform as well on these motors. try the champion plugs, new gas (50:1), and put on new plug boots. also, mount the cdi somewhere. having it bounce around while riding will put stress on the wires and maybe stretch/unplug it.

mods that i can see from photos:
twin SLP pipes with stinger cans (vs. large muffler style can)
air pods vs. air box

these two would make me think your clutch has been worked over and the gearing/jetting is different. pull your carbs and see what you neddles are set at. the neddle and low speed jet will control fuel flow to the engine at lower rpm the main jets only control your high rpm and that is where yours is working well. if you can find what you sled is set-up to, we can point at what it should be at. also, check the compression (warm engine) just to rule that out if you have a tester....

sorry for the book.

littleredstroke · 01-03-2013, 09:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ridgerunner

slp pipe install instructions are listed right on their website. the twin pipes will require better clutching and jetting, but slp is usually VERY conservative in their jetting so the engine will be rich with their settings. also, this 700 is a high compression engine and are legendary for popping and backfiring at start-up.

the oil pump is located by the rewind (pull start). it is a gear drive unit off the waterpump belt. if ther is no tank and no pump, just leave it premix.
1998 Polaris 700 RMK (0980966) Oil Pump 700 Rmk & European 700 Rmk E980966 | Babbitts Polaris Parts House

i have always had better luck with these engines with champion plugs than ngk. i don't now why, but the ngk just don't perform as well on these motors. try the champion plugs, new gas (50:1), and put on new plug boots. also, mount the cdi somewhere. having it bounce around while riding will put stress on the wires and maybe stretch/unplug it.

mods that i can see from photos:
twin SLP pipes with stinger cans (vs. large muffler style can)
air pods vs. air box

these two would make me think your clutch has been worked over and the gearing/jetting is different. pull your carbs and see what you neddles are set at. the neddle and low speed jet will control fuel flow to the engine at lower rpm the main jets only control your high rpm and that is where yours is working well. if you can find what you sled is set-up to, we can point at what it should be at. also, check the compression (warm engine) just to rule that out if you have a tester....

sorry for the book.

Thank you! This is what I was kinda looking for. Just a baisic rundown of what stuff is.

On another note... I think maybe last time I started it I didn't let it run to warm up long enough so it flooded.

I let it sit in the shop over night, @ 65* and she started right up , went out to our back pasture and let er rip for about 20 minutes and she ran great . Only issue is from a slow roll to WOT there's about 2 seconds worth of bogging / sputtering before she lights and goes.

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ridgerunner · 01-03-2013, 09:07 PM

the sputtering is because of the pipes. it sounds like the carbs may be tuned on the rich side. it is getting to much fuel and it needs to get the rpm up to bring in more air. as stated before, the twin pipes are a little harder to tune so doing some reading on the kehlin (spelling?) d-slide carbs you have is going to be well worth it. also do some reading on the clutch tuning. it sounds like you enjoy the wrenching a little so read up on it, with a sled that needs to be tuned to a point like yours, it will help.

what is your sled pulling for rpm at wide-open? where is the clutch engaging at rpm?

littleredstroke · 01-03-2013, 10:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ridgerunner

the sputtering is because of the pipes. it sounds like the carbs may be tuned on the rich side. it is getting to much fuel and it needs to get the rpm up to bring in more air. as stated before, the twin pipes are a little harder to tune so doing some reading on the kehlin (spelling?) d-slide carbs you have is going to be well worth it. also do some reading on the clutch tuning. it sounds like you enjoy the wrenching a little so read up on it, with a sled that needs to be tuned to a point like yours, it will help.

what is your sled pulling for rpm at wide-open? where is the clutch engaging at rpm?

I didn't have but 100 yds where there was snow so I didn't get a chance to open it up all the way. Clutch engages round 3k? Does that sound right?

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meburdick · 01-03-2013, 10:02 PM

No. Should be 4500-ish or so.

littleredstroke · 01-03-2013, 10:16 PM

I'll check again tomorrow. It was dark and my headlight.was not working so I was trying to see where I was going, truth be told I was so excited that it was working right I wasn't really paying attention.

Would it be beneficial to install a pryo to keep temps in check so I don't melt anything down?

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littleredstroke · 01-05-2013, 08:15 PM

Ok well I know the tach worked yesterday, now its not... So idk

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**BC_Dan** · 01-05-2013, 08:27 PM

I had the engagement RPM on my 97 700 at about 3800 which was perfect to keep from spinning the track too much in the powder. Easier engagement prevents trenching

littleredstroke · 01-05-2013, 09:51 PM

It's not as low as 3 I don't think.. the rmk I usually run engages a little over 4 this one ain't quite that high 3500 sounds right.

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littleredstroke · 01-06-2013, 08:29 PM

Ok, engages bout 4300, top Rpm 8400 @75ISH . Still wonder if gas/oil is too rich, if I putter around it loads up And will start to pop , wide open throttle for a few minutes it.clears right up .

A question on the secondary... I think.. is there a way you can modify those? When cruising at half throttle on trails for instance it runs smooth and sounds like it should.but if I hit a bump or something and push a little more on the throttle it freaking rips, like im doing wheelies down the trail. Is that when the secondary engages? From what I understand that's the high gear? After all day riding today I have gotten used to it, but it makes it hard to maintain low speeds .

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joshkidner · 01-08-2013, 10:13 PM

The secondary does the opposite from the primary. It should engage sooner. Find an animation on how centrifugal clutches work, you will be able to understand how one closes as the other one opens.

meburdick · 01-08-2013, 10:17 PM

The two go hand-in-hand. As the primary closes, the secondary opens (and vice-versa). The outer portion of the primary spins faster than the inner portion, and the closing of the primary causes the belt to move faster. As the secondary opens, the belt falls down "inside" and is able to turn the secondary faster at the same belt speed. If you're getting a jumpy engagement, you may have the wrong belt, a significantly worn belt, or adjustment issues.