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12-21-2012, 07:42 PM
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#1 (permalink)
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Menomonie, WI
Posts: 15
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'84 indy 600 triple ran fine, but wont start 1 week later
Hi there,
So I bought my first sled this winter, and I have had it running 5 to 6 times this year, It was a little hard to start the past few times, but once it started and warmed up, it ran fine(expected this as its an older machine). let it sit for a week, and it wont start without a shot of ether, but it wont stay running. tried all sorts of choke/throttle positions combinations, but it just wont kick and stay running? help? I have 4 days off work, and id really like to get some ride time in! these machines are far too fun!
plugs are wet, compression seems good, if i cant get it to start soon, ill be tearing into the carbs. I just dont get why it ran fine a week ago, but it wont now?
Anyone know where the crankcase drain plugs are on these engines? I may have flooded it? am i suppose to give it any throttle when starting? soo many questions.. sorry for being new.. haha
Thanks!
Tanner
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12-21-2012, 07:52 PM
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#2 (permalink)
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: muskegon michigan
Posts: 703
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Funfettie
Hi there,
So I bought my first sled this winter, and I have had it running 5 to 6 times this year, It was a little hard to start the past few times, but once it started and warmed up, it ran fine(expected this as its an older machine). let it sit for a week, and it wont start without a shot of ether, but it wont stay running. tried all sorts of choke/throttle positions combinations, but it just wont kick and stay running? help? I have 4 days off work, and id really like to get some ride time in! these machines are far too fun!
plugs are wet, compression seems good, if i cant get it to start soon, ill be tearing into the carbs. I just dont get why it ran fine a week ago, but it wont now?
Anyone know where the crankcase drain plugs are on these engines? I may have flooded it? am i suppose to give it any throttle when starting? soo many questions.. sorry for being new.. haha
Thanks!
Tanner
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I had EXACTLY this problem! The drains are on the crankcase under each cylinder. So there is 3 plugs. There easy to see just put a can or something for it to empty into. I havnt tested mine because i am going through everything to make sure it dont breakdown this winter. If the plugs are wet i would assume its running a bit rich. Try adjusting it for more air. I believe it needs to be turned 3/4 out? Not sure. If someone could x2 that, that would be nice. Also there is a really good thread on exactly how to disassemble your carbs and clean them in the how to section of this forum. Goodluck!
Sent from my YP-GS1 using Snowmobile.com App
__________________
1987 chasis with 1985 597cc under the hood. Xtra-10, fox shocks, and a whole lotta speed!
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12-21-2012, 09:29 PM
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#3 (permalink)
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 30
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Get new spark plugs.. drain your case. Ride it easy and then worry if your running rich. Your problem is probably fuel so take it easy on the old girl. If you clean your carbs Drain your fuel.
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12-21-2012, 09:34 PM
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#4 (permalink)
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: northern il
Posts: 2,206
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Clean the carbs. Fixes majority of starting issues. Also while your at it check your fuel lines if they look grimy replace then. Don't have to worry about draining the tank if you've got good gas in it
Sent from my SCH-I510 using Snowmobile.com App
__________________
93 mach1 670
02 rmk 800 162
95 powder special 580
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12-22-2012, 06:20 AM
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#5 (permalink)
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I am Spartacus
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Milton Mills, NH
Posts: 23,208
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You may have water in the fuel. It would fit your description. Starts out OK, then as the bowls get moisture in them, it won't start/run.
__________________
1992 Ski Doo Mach 1 (SC-10/2 suspended) March '07 SF.com Sled of the Month! (Lost in fire 4-13)
1992 Ski Doo Mach 1 original
2006 Ski Doo MXZ 500SS
Webmaster Evergreen Valley Snowmobile Club
SledNH.com Moderator
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12-22-2012, 09:12 AM
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#6 (permalink)
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Menomonie, WI
Posts: 15
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i pulled a few parts off the carbs, and everything looks pretty clean. fuel line look pretty old and yellowed so those will be replaced today. the air filter also rotted out so im going to grab a new one today. carbs are also on the list. anyone have a good page that describes how to clean carbs? i have done a couple lawn mower carbs, but these look like they have a lot more going on inside them.
thanks!
Tanner
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12-22-2012, 09:28 AM
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#7 (permalink)
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Michigan
Posts: 671
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Don't let the looks of a clean carburetor fool you, clean them while you have them off! The way I clean mine is I let it sit in a coffee can full of carburetor cleaner for a week or so. If your pressed for time then I would get some Electrical contact cleaner as it freezes while you spray it and get the straw in the port holes the best you can, then hit it with a can of parts cleaner as it will flush out any left overs, then get the air compressor on it and hit it with compressed air. I found this to be the quickest way to do it with pressed time. But when you get more time its best to brake it all down and let it soak.
__________________
RIDE IT LIKE YOU STOLE IT...!!!
Last edited by ridegreen; 12-22-2012 at 09:38 AM.
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12-22-2012, 09:47 AM
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#8 (permalink)
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: muskegon michigan
Posts: 703
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Funfettie
i pulled a few parts off the carbs, and everything looks pretty clean. fuel line look pretty old and yellowed so those will be replaced today. the air filter also rotted out so im going to grab a new one today. carbs are also on the list. anyone have a good page that describes how to clean carbs? i have done a couple lawn mower carbs, but these look like they have a lot more going on inside them.
thanks!
Tanner
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There is a really good thread with a link to a site that tells you exactly how to dissasemble and clean the carbs in the how-to's section of the forum. It takes you through everything, including cleaning out the jets.
__________________
1987 chasis with 1985 597cc under the hood. Xtra-10, fox shocks, and a whole lotta speed!
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12-22-2012, 08:18 PM
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#9 (permalink)
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Menomonie, WI
Posts: 15
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well, im an idot... So I took the cap off the fuel tank, and shook the sled a little. Saw fuel in it, so I pulled the carbs off, and started pulling the fuel lines off as well to replace them. pulled the line off the tank and no fuel came out as i thought it would.. grabbed onto the back of the sled, lifted up slightly, and fuel came pouring out.
moral of the story, the fuel feed from the tank isnt at the bottom like id assume it should.. makes no sense, but its about 1/4 up on the tank... not sure how the plugs were wet earlier(maybe the ether?), but I threw another gallon of fuel mix in, pulled 3 solid times, and it started right up, idled perfectly, and ran it pretty hard for 5-6 hours today. Runs perfect. Thank you to all those who helped! At least I was able to learn a lot from this simple issue!
Thanks again,
Tanner
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12-22-2012, 08:34 PM
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#10 (permalink)
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Northern Central CT
Posts: 843
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The point at which the line exits the tank is not on the bottom of the tank (it's part way up like you described). However, there is a line inside of the tank on the other side of that exit point, and that line should lie on the floor of the tank. It's a common issue in older sleds for this line to break, come off, or get plugged with gunk. If any of that happens, you will not be able to use the full capacity of your tank like you are describing. The solution is to replace that line inside the tank.
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12-22-2012, 09:07 PM
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#11 (permalink)
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: muskegon michigan
Posts: 703
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Quote:
Originally Posted by meburdick
The point at which the line exits the tank is not on the bottom of the tank (it's part way up like you described). However, there is a line inside of the tank on the other side of that exit point, and that line should lie on the floor of the tank. It's a common issue in older sleds for this line to break, come off, or get plugged with gunk. If any of that happens, you will not be able to use the full capacity of your tank like you are describing. The solution is to replace that line inside the tank.
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And if your looking for an even quicker fix, fill the tank up to the point where it is. But yes definatly replace that line.
__________________
1987 chasis with 1985 597cc under the hood. Xtra-10, fox shocks, and a whole lotta speed!
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12-22-2012, 09:11 PM
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#12 (permalink)
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Northern Central CT
Posts: 843
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That's not a "fix" - it's a workaround. And it isn't useful in the trails.
Besides.. He already did that. That's how he got it running again.
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12-22-2012, 09:21 PM
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#13 (permalink)
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: muskegon michigan
Posts: 703
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Quote:
Originally Posted by meburdick
That's not a "fix" - it's a workaround. And it isn't useful in the trails.
Besides.. He already did that. That's how he got it running again.
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Thats what i wanted to see, if it worked. I didnt catch that! I really should read closer :P but now that you know that worked now you can fix it and have fun
__________________
1987 chasis with 1985 597cc under the hood. Xtra-10, fox shocks, and a whole lotta speed!
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12-26-2012, 09:45 PM
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#14 (permalink)
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Menomonie, WI
Posts: 15
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Any idea how to get inside the tank to get that line out or put it back on? sounds like a pain in the @$$ working with only a 2" fuel tank hole to get at it.
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12-26-2012, 10:02 PM
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#15 (permalink)
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Northern Central CT
Posts: 843
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Standard procedure would be to follow the line "backward" from the pump or filter to find where it goes into the tank. Remove the line at that point, unscrew the fitting from the tank (you need to have the tank pretty much empty).
The clamp on that line is a special one in that it's about the only thing you'll find that will go back in through that hole. If you don't have the tool to remove it and reinstall it, you could possibly get some special gas line that won't slip off (and wouldn't need the clamp). Reverse the process to put it all back together, and there's likely a rubber grommet on the fitting that will need to be replaced.
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12-27-2012, 07:34 AM
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#16 (permalink)
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: muskegon michigan
Posts: 703
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i got my indy 600 running last week. gas wasnt getting to the carbs and the dang fuel pump wouldnt prime. i pulled the lines off the carbs and blew into the tank until it came out, then pulled the rope until it kept coming out and reconnected it. no problems since.
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12-27-2012, 07:38 AM
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#17 (permalink)
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Northern Central CT
Posts: 843
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That might be a useful step to take *after* he replaces the bad pickup line in the tank (which has already been determined to be the root cause of the issue here).
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12-27-2012, 07:44 AM
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#18 (permalink)
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: muskegon michigan
Posts: 703
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well yes... just a heads up incase he gets it all together and it still wont start! remember the lines will be all air. goodluck on the pickup line! hope you get her running! dang snow storm went right around us, travel an hour any direction there is 5 in. we have almost none.
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12-27-2012, 03:27 PM
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#19 (permalink)
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Menomonie, WI
Posts: 15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by meburdick
Standard procedure would be to follow the line "backward" from the pump or filter to find where it goes into the tank. Remove the line at that point, unscrew the fitting from the tank (you need to have the tank pretty much empty).
The clamp on that line is a special one in that it's about the only thing you'll find that will go back in through that hole. If you don't have the tool to remove it and reinstall it, you could possibly get some special gas line that won't slip off (and wouldn't need the clamp). Reverse the process to put it all back together, and there's likely a rubber grommet on the fitting that will need to be replaced.
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I dont believe there is a fitting that can be unscrewed from the tank.. I thinks its once large molded piece of plastic, but ill double check when im home again this weekend. If it is, that would be easy, but from what i remember, im going to have to go through the fill hole in the top. Im thinking a very long pair of needle nose pliers will be needed..
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12-27-2012, 03:35 PM
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#20 (permalink)
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: muskegon michigan
Posts: 703
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Funfettie
I dont believe there is a fitting that can be unscrewed from the tank.. I thinks its once large molded piece of plastic, but ill double check when im home again this weekend. If it is, that would be easy, but from what i remember, im going to have to go through the fill hole in the top. Im thinking a very long pair of needle nose pliers will be needed..
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Im pretty sure your sled will have a fitting, maybe not. We will see! Good luck!
__________________
1987 chasis with 1985 597cc under the hood. Xtra-10, fox shocks, and a whole lotta speed!
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