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Old 12-21-2012, 04:47 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Edge rear suspension

Can someone help with how to adjust the rear suspension for my 02 Xc 600? First ride on the sled today. It was setup for a much light rider than me. The suspension was bottoming out a lot on the bumps. Is there a dampening screw on the rear shock? Or do I increase the tension in the coil-over? Or something else? Thanks!


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Old 12-21-2012, 05:12 PM   #2 (permalink)
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First thing I would do is adjust the tension adjuster on the torsion springs. Take the weight off the rear of the sled and use a spark plug tool to turn the adjuster to a stiffer setting. Make sure both sides are the same. That will help a lot, especially if it's on the lightest setting.

Some shocks are adjustable, others are not. You will have to determine which you have. Adjust one thing, then go for a ride so you will know what the adjustment did for the ride quality.

If you have the spring tension adjuster on the highest setting and still have issues, there are bigger springs that can be installed. You probably won't find an after-market spring, but the Polaris dealer should be able to get one. Or order online from one of the Polaris dealers that sells that way.

Good luck!
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Old 12-21-2012, 06:37 PM   #3 (permalink)
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I will give that a shot. These are the stock tension springs. The shocks are Fox position sensitive. There looks like there is screw or valve on the back one, just not sure if that is an adjustment or just used for charging the shock?


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Old 12-21-2012, 06:42 PM   #4 (permalink)
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I will give that a shot. These are the stock tension springs. The shocks are Fox position sensitive. There looks like there is screw or valve on the back one, just not sure if that is an adjustment or just used for charging the shock?


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Stick with tightening the tension spring things like dan said and hopefully you will not need to mess with the shocks :P good luck!

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Old 12-21-2012, 06:51 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Easiest way to do this is with an extra pair of hands to balance the sled... The Edge chassis machines don't like to sit well if you roll them as described here...

- Roll the machine up onto one side so you can balance it
- Grab the long portion of the torsion spring and compress it up toward the tunnel
- Once the spring clears the wheel, pull it outward and allow it to relax, extending below the track - this will bring all of the tension off of the spring
- Turn the control block that the upper / short portion of the spring sits in until it's in the position where the longest portion of the block is pointing away from the tunnel
- Sit the short portion of the spring back in the block and reverse the process to this point, putting the long arm of the spring back inside the wheel

Drop the sled back down on the track and repeat the entire process for the other side. It's imperative that both blocks are in the same position or you could damage / break one of the springs. It's also important to look at see what it's currently set at before you start. There are three settings for the block: Low (shortest part of block faces down), medium (the middle thickness points down, there are two positions like this), and high (this is the position I described to you).

Once that's done, you can look at whether or not you want to change any of the damping characteristics of the shocks. You can also determine whether or not the torsion springs that are on there are heavy enough for your size. Personally, it seems to me that the stock springs are seldom good for riding rough surfaces by anyone over about 200-220 lbs.
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Old 12-21-2012, 07:45 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Thanks guys! I am 220 Lbs and it is currently set at the lightest position. Setting at medium to heavy should make a big difference and hopefully solve the problem.


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Old 12-21-2012, 07:47 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Go to the max setting. I'm 220 myself, and I want for stiffer springs. Add 25 lbs of riding gear and my step son of 9, and you can quickly see why.
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Old 12-21-2012, 07:48 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Thanks guys! I am 220 Lbs and it is currently set at the lightest position. Setting at medium to heavy should make a big difference and hopefully solve the problem.


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I would imagine! I would guess the min would be for around 110 lbs and max somewhere around 280.

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Old 12-21-2012, 07:54 PM   #9 (permalink)
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I would imagine! I would guess the min would be for around 110 lbs and max somewhere around 280.
A) I don't think the range is that wide
B) I don't remember where I read it, but the stock springs are the lightest of the ones offered for a particular suspension. The stock springs for my '98 Indy 440 were rated for a 180lb rider from what I recall. That's not to say that I can't ride that sled, but it clearly doesn't have the "float" that my Edge has. I've been considering upping the strength of the stock springs by at least one gauge up, maybe two. But, at $120 or so to buy them, I'm holding off for the time being.
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Old 12-21-2012, 07:56 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by meburdick View Post
A) I don't think the range is that wide
B) I don't remember where I read it, but the stock springs are the lightest of the ones offered for a particular suspension. The stock springs for my '98 Indy 440 were rated for a 180lb rider from what I recall. That's not to say that I can't ride that sled, but it clearly doesn't have the "float" that my Edge has. I've been considering upping the strength of the stock springs by at least one gauge up, maybe two. But, at $120 or so to buy them, I'm holding off for the time being.
Was a guess :P

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Old 12-21-2012, 08:37 PM   #11 (permalink)
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So what does the front shock on the skid do and how does increasing the spring tension affect it?


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Old 12-21-2012, 08:40 PM   #12 (permalink)
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So what does the front shock on the skid do and how does increasing the spring tension affect it?


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Im not positive but probually tighten up your suspension even more. The same as thectension spring would.
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Old 12-21-2012, 08:47 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Front shock is what his the bumps first and moves first. As this happens, it loads the skid and lifts it so that it will float over the bumps. Increasing supporting tension on shocks increases pre-load and requires more of a bump to make it move. If you ride mogul trails at high speed, you might want to up the tension.
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Old 12-21-2012, 08:59 PM   #14 (permalink)
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I made the adjustment to the block and measured the "sag". Everything looks good 3-4 inches. But when I pump up and down while standing I can still feel it bottoming. Is it possible the rear shock is toast and providing NO dampening? That's why I was trying to figure out if there is a dampening screw on the rear...


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Old 12-21-2012, 09:02 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Are the skis flat on the ground? They need to be.
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Old 12-21-2012, 09:04 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Yep. Skis are flat.


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Old 12-21-2012, 09:09 PM   #17 (permalink)
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The shock should be valved. If it was originally in the lightest position for the torsion springs, chances arethe shock will need to have the damping rate changed too. I don't have a good answer for you on that... Maybe BC_Dan will stop by and help here.
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Old 12-22-2012, 12:24 AM   #18 (permalink)
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If the shocks are rechargeable/rebuildable and have not been worked on in a couple thousand miles, it's time for some service. Fronts are probably RydeFX and gas charged, rears should be another RydeFX and a Fox. The gas leaks out over time, recharging will bring back a little of the performance, but changing out all the oil (and contaminants) and making sure there are no problems can really make a difference. Some of the Rydes were not rebuildable, it would depend on the model of your sled.

Find a place that does a bunch of shocks, they may charge a bit more, but the end result will make you happier. Just because the local mechanic remembers taking that class in school and did a set three years ago doesn't make him good at it
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Old 12-22-2012, 11:24 PM   #19 (permalink)
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I road today and there is definitely no dampening happening by the shocks. Either I am bottoming or off the seat in the bumps. I am assuming it is the rear shock that is in the most need of rebuild... Am I missing anything? I know they are probably all due, but I am just trying to get through the season on what I have. Have a local guy who can do the rebuild I've used before for $35 per shock.


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Old 12-23-2012, 07:34 AM   #20 (permalink)
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All of the shocks work as a set, including the ones on the skis, to get you over the rough stuff smoothly. Ifyou're looking to keep cost down, you can do just the ones in the skid. But, doing all four will ultimately give you the best ride.
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