polaris_indy22

Ok so we just got our first ride-able snow of the season here in iowa. so of course the first thing i do is get the sled out. this is only the second season i have had the sled. last rear it ran ok just needed a few things. one being the clutch needed cleaned and i need an exhaust. last year i just ran the baffle to a strait pipe and the thing FLEW! but this year after cleaning the clutch and putting an exhaust on it it just doesnt seem to have its top speed like it use to. it has really good throttle response and lots of torque but wont go much over 60mph. any ideas?

polaris_indy22

another thing is when i let off the throttle it doesnt seem to idle down right way like it should

Parkerxl650

Judging by the badge in the centre of the hood I'd say it's an EFI 650?

polaris_indy22

ok so i just put another post up that's along these same lines and wasn't sure weather to post on it or start another post.

my 1991 indy 650 efi has lost some top end speed (only going around 65) since i have cleaned clutch and put a stock exhaust on. guy i bought it from "lost" the exhaust.

so i was wondering what a good clutch spring and weight combination would be. and what a good sprocket combination would be to have a really good top bet keep the good low end

polaris_indy22

yes it is. sorry i forgot that part

bigcountrysg

I think your clutch could be out of adjustment.

polaris_indy22

i did take it apart when i cleaned it could that have caused it?

how do i fix that?

scrammy650

if its still efi hows the battery also clean all clutches

polaris_indy22

battery is new this was the first ride on it. and what do u mean by all clutches. i cleaned the drive clutch and the spring and all the weights. made sure every thing was all clean and depress free

scrammy650

also secondary the one farther back /big one if these get dirty/not operating properly sometimes when u put a load on them they wont move

polaris_indy22

Alright I did clean that too. But i think the cleaner I used left a film in every thing so I need to get rid of that so the belt will grab

meburdick

What are you getting for motor speed at full throttle?

Have you checked the offset and deflection for the belt? How about the spring in the secondary clutch?

I'd say that it's also worth checking the chaincase out (change the fluid if you haven't already and adjust the chain tension) to make sure there isn't any additional drag in there.

__________________
2002 Edge X 500: https://plus.google.com/photos/11364...45853579342449
1998 Indy 440: https://plus.google.com/photos/11364...10516040672513

joshkidner

I use engine cleaner. Do not spray it directly into the carb! Spray some on a cloth and wipe. Degreaser will work also. It will strip any oils/belt residue on the clutch. You will notice the difference. Also alot of people (including me) like to use fine grit sandpaper on the inside of the sheaves and do circular motions. It will rough it up just a little so it can grab without ripping your belt (which is why we use fine grit, 220 is what i use.)

Sent from my YP-GS1 using Snowmobile.com App

__________________
1987 chasis with 1985 597cc under the hood. Xtra-10, fox shocks, and a whole lotta speed!

polaris_indy22

ya i thought about using sand paper but didnt know if it would ruin anything. also im thinking that a new track would help with take off. the one thats on there has seen better days. i will try the sand paper before the next ride the snow we got didnt last long so now im just waiting for another storm

joshkidner

Just dont sand to hard and you will be golden. Take a grease gun to all you fittings, especially the jackshaft one under the secondary clutch. Make sure all of your wheels spin freely and your track is not too tight or loose.

__________________
1987 chasis with 1985 597cc under the hood. Xtra-10, fox shocks, and a whole lotta speed!

meburdick

While it's important to hit that fitting, it doesn't "do" much in a direct manner. The biggest real-time benefit that it brings is to keep the worm gear for the speedo operating freely. The "fringe" benefit from KEEPING it greased (especially after riding) is that pumping in grease drives out anything with moisture. Removing ALL moisture from that area will help the DRIVESHAFT (jackshaft is the upper shaft) bearing live its longest life.

__________________
2002 Edge X 500: https://plus.google.com/photos/11364...45853579342449
1998 Indy 440: https://plus.google.com/photos/11364...10516040672513

joshkidner

Was just making sure :P its good to grease all moving parts. Tie rod ends included. It could me rusted in there for all we know.

__________________
1987 chasis with 1985 597cc under the hood. Xtra-10, fox shocks, and a whole lotta speed!

polaris_indy22

another thing i forgot to mention is that that clutch doesnt catch the belt tell about 4500rpm which i think is ok. but it tops out at 7-7500rpm which im pretty sure is way low if i have heard right it should be around 8-8500 right? what could cause that?

meburdick

Yes, you should be getting closer to 8k rpm on it.

__________________
2002 Edge X 500: https://plus.google.com/photos/11364...45853579342449
1998 Indy 440: https://plus.google.com/photos/11364...10516040672513

polaris_indy22

meburdick how do i check the offset and deflection? also i put a new chain in the chain case last year. what should the tensions be on the chain? im running atomatic transmission fluid for chain case oil i was told that would work. is that ok or should i run something else?

sorry guys im new to snowmobiles. i pick this one up cheap last year adn just doing all i can to make it run at its best