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Old 12-06-2012, 05:51 PM   #1 (permalink)
mat
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Clutches slipping?

All right, I finally found Ethanol free gas, bought 20 liters, and put it in my sled along with Star Tron Enzyme. Then I took it out for a test ride. (It idles better on start up now). I left the Ethanol wires unplugged, and it bogged on top end, and a slight bog in the mid range (just like last year). The only difference about it this year is that even with the wires plugged in it does the same thing (I haven't decided if the bog in the mid range is worse with the wires plugged in or not). The thing that has caught my attention this year is that there is snow getting into the engine compartment area, and even some in where the clutches are. Also, sometimes in the mid range, the sled goes, and holds back, goes then holds back. Could this whole bogging thing be caused by slipping clutches? I did a compresions test and both sides were @ 120 psi. Also, does anyone have a genious idea how to seal the hood better? Thanks so much in advance. Whenever my sled has a problem, I go mad!
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Old 12-06-2012, 09:49 PM   #2 (permalink)
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I have a sled that used to do something a lot like that. It turned out that my primary clutch spring was broken in half. I dont know how it even moved but it did and it acted a lot like what you are describing.
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Old 12-06-2012, 09:51 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Oh I see thanks. Maybe I will pull it off and have a look.
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Old 12-06-2012, 11:10 PM   #4 (permalink)
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When's the last time the fuel filter was replaced? It's a critical component on the EFI sleds. My 700 ran poorly until I changed the filter, then it was much better. Be prepared, those things aint' cheap!

I also took some clear silicone and filled the gap between the headlight and the body, that helps keep snow from entering the engine via the headlight. If you have not covered the headlight adjuster, cover that, too.

And check the small spring that works the VES valves. The drain hole for the hood is right over the mag side VES valve and will fill the valve with water. The water has no place to go, so it rusts the spring. Fill the OEM hole in the headlight cowling with silicone and drill one in a different spot that won't drip into the VES valve.
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Old 12-06-2012, 11:28 PM   #5 (permalink)
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I don't know when the filter was replaced: I bought the sled at the end of last year. Thanks I think I'll clean the power valves while they are off. Thanks guys, this gives me a place to start. I will keep you posted!
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Old 12-07-2012, 04:03 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Is there a good place online to bye a filter that is cheaper than from the dealer?
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Old 12-07-2012, 08:01 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Try Royal Distributing or find a Kimpex distributor.
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Old 12-07-2012, 08:03 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Well, I may have found the problem, while inspecting the mag side power valve, I looked down inside the air box (which is apparently easier to see in the dark with a light lol) and saw snow in the bottom. And because the snow is super cold and powdery unlike last year, I think this is the problem. I will seal it up over the weekend and cross my fingers that I don't have to bye a $120 fuel filter!
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Old 12-07-2012, 08:04 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ultrafrozen View Post
Try Royal Distributing or find a Kimpex distributor.
thank you
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Old 12-12-2012, 06:37 PM   #10 (permalink)
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I took off the plastic piece that feeds the air box, and sure enough, there was snow everywhere in there! So I cleaned it up, sealed up all the cracks and holes I can find on the console, and it runs better than before but not great. It is fine at the start of the ride, then it starts doing the same thing as before. It also has WAY less power than my bro's sled, which has a new Fix kit in it. My sled feels like a 600 at best right now. It sometimes decides to idle a few hundred rpm low as well. I guess the next step is to replace the fuel filter, than after that, a rebuild.
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Old 12-12-2012, 07:36 PM   #11 (permalink)
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When I changed my filter on my 700, I gained almost 5 mph top speed. That filter should be changed every year or so, depending on the miles ridden. I was being spanked pretty regularly by a stock 700 Dragon, after I replaced the filter, the stock sled couldn't keep up.
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Old 12-12-2012, 07:53 PM   #12 (permalink)
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thanks man I will do it. It isn't very smooth or consistent right now. Thanks for all the help I'll let you know when I get it if it works
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Old 12-12-2012, 10:09 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Is the fuel filter I am looking for inline or is it inside the tank?
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Old 12-12-2012, 11:15 PM   #14 (permalink)
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It's inline. It's a high pressure automotive type that takes a special disconnector. You can buy the tool at any of the parts stores. I found the inexpensive plastic one works fine. However, if you drop the dang thing when attempting to disconnect the filter, and it drops under the engine, a magnet won't help you recover it. Trust me on that

I use a 3/8" Lisle angled disconnect, it was less than 5 bucks at the local Napa store. Tie a string to it so when you drop it you don't have to put the sled on it's side and hope your son has a double-jointed wrist
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Old 12-13-2012, 12:08 AM   #15 (permalink)
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There are these "universal" inline filters at royal distributing that are like 6.00. I guess I should stick with OEM dealer stuff though it is awfully tempting though :/. Thanks for the tips! I'll get it on the way tomorrow! I can't wait to get back on the snow with this thing. A string is a great idea. I think I'll do that with all my tools.... I have spent enough time fishing if you know what I mean
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Old 12-13-2012, 01:14 AM   #16 (permalink)
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The cheaper inline filters work great for carb sleds with lots less fuel pressure. The EFI system has a lot greater pressure to deal with. The Polaris filter comes with a shaped braided hose on one end that is most likely proprietary. I have not found any aftermarket ones available. Some guys have used similarly sized car filters and cut the braided hose off the old polaris filter and clamped it to the car filter. I may try that next time, now that I have an old filter/hose to play with.

It's a law that when you drop a non-metallic object into the engine bay it will roll under the exact center of the engine. Even if it's square!
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Old 12-13-2012, 03:01 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Thank you. Haha so true. Objects over come the laws of physics at the most inconvenient times.
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Old 12-16-2012, 07:50 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Well, got the fuel filter changed, and.... the same small bog in the mid range, and large bog at open throttle. I am going to run ingector cleaner and see if it helps, but... I am kind of at a loss. I should also mention that the clutches aren't set up for the elevation I am currently ridding at, and if I go wide open for too long the rpm will reach 9'000 + (which I try to avoid)

Last edited by mat; 12-16-2012 at 08:40 PM.
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Old 12-16-2012, 11:16 PM   #19 (permalink)
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I am thinking this is clutch related. I will probably pull the secondary next
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Old 12-17-2012, 09:31 AM   #20 (permalink)
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I'd definitely clutch to elevation. It makes a difference.

One other thing to try that doesn't cost anything...

On the VES valves, there are two hoses that go to a solenoid. The cylinder pressure is bypassed by the solenoid until a set RPM happens, basically making the valve open or closed. You can unhook the hoses and set them aside, and plug the openings on the cylinder and the valves operate more like the old variable valves. Some guys notice an improvement doing that. I did that on my 600, it seemed to help a little with the midrange stumble. I used short pieces of hose and cut the threads of a bolt with a shoulder and used the threadless bolt to plug the hose. Move the OEM stuff out of the way, but don't disconnect the solenoid. If it doesn't help, it's simple to put back. You definitely want less RPM, it should be running about 8250 +/- 300 rpm for a stock engine.
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