93sportwithkids

Make sure you use quality fuel line with good clamps to replace old fuel lines... Not vacuum line. And vice versa. Never fuel line where vacuum lines go. There IS a difference!!! (just to help you avoid a few headaches.)

__________________
Thanks! TJ

1994 Polaris 440 Sport with Xtra10
1996 Polaris XLT with Xtra12
1996 Polaris Indy Lite GT

bigcountrysg

What were the results of the compression test?

Oh and I still have them Carbs too.

ITriumph

I didnt read all posts, but did you drain the crankcase under exaust manifold. There should be 2- 10mm bolts for 2 cylinder and 3 on a triple. The needle and seats are junk letting fuel dump into crankcase. I had that problem a lot cuz i would always forget to shut my fuel offwhen done riding.

Sent from my SCH-i705 using Snowmobile.com App

__________________
snow and ice imagery
extended forecast for Alanson




And on the eighth day, god created snowmobiles .

joshkidner

havnt borrowed compression tester. ironic someone said oreilly has them (to loan) for free because there is one about to open a mile down the road! does autozone do it too? Ill drain the crankcase tomarrow. i blew in and out of the pump and could hear he thing moving back and forth. i blew just in and no air was escaping, im going to stick with it for now. we will see where we get. hopefully we get an idle!

bigcountrysg

No auto store loans tools for free. The loan a tool program is you buy the tool, you use the tool, you return the tool, you get a full refund.

If there is a harbor frieght by you, they have a nice compression test kit for about 15 bucks.

joshkidner

auto zone lends tools. you pay the fee + deposit. you get the deposit back when you return them. there used tools but usually high end tools. we have done this before

sturmgear

I find with a lot of old polaris sleds, the electrical conectors get corroded,,,and the crank case needs drained...pilot jets..float levels ...get a baseline, and i'm not certain, but i think priming the engine with fuek mix from a squeeze bottle a better bet than starting fluid...good luck....i'm messing with scorps and jlos...yahoo hoo...i've got an 83 indy trail on deck..

Attached Thumbnails

 

93sportwithkids

There's a ton of "how to" information here:
http://www.snowmobileforum.com/engin...-tos-here.html

__________________
Thanks! TJ

1994 Polaris 440 Sport with Xtra10
1996 Polaris XLT with Xtra12
1996 Polaris Indy Lite GT

XLT Spartan

Actually, that is not right. O'reily does loan tools for nothing. You have to put a deposit down, but you get it back when you return the tool. Zero cost. It's where I get a compression gauge if I need one.


Sent from my iPhone using Snowmobile.com Free App

__________________
_______________________________
Toys:
93 Vmax 600
94 XLT Special
99 XLT Touring
02 XC Sp 600

bigcountrysg

But it is not free, you have to pay, but yes you get all your money back when you return the tool.

meburdick

Do we really need to have an argument over the semantics of what constitutes free? They loan the tool for free. There is no "fee". You have to give a deposit, and you get it back. That equals free.

meburdick

Compression test would make sense to do... Low compression = hard starting and is sometimes overcome by using starter fluid or dumping a little gas directly into the cylinder.

I agree with the statements made earlier that "appearing" ok and being ok are not necessarily related. While the pump may actually not be leaking, it could have varnish or "gunk" in it that is preventing it from working correctly.

Rebuilding the pump is cheap. I bought four or five Winderosa pump rebuild kits last season in a batch. If you have the round pump, and want / need one, I'll gladly send you one for $8 shipped via US Mail.

joshkidner

haha. anyway to do tomarrow: get compression tester, new gas in the gas can ( and make some premix in a bottle) replace lines and put fuel pump back on, drain ALL of the old gas, including whats in the carb bowls, fill them with fresh gas through the overflow with a syringe, spray some premix and hope for the best. got a "new" pipe/silencer and a whole new wire harness. got my work cut out for me! I feel i have an extreme level of knowlage for being 16 and only owning a sled for one year! thanks for all the help everyone!

joshkidner

thanks, but it looked new inside. it should work perfect. ill take you up on that deal if it still dont wrk tommarrow. gonna clean pilot jets tomrrow also.

meburdick

One thing you might want to do is to pull the carbs off - try to keep them pretty level when you do - then check to see how much gas is in each bowl. If you can manage to keep it level while removing the four screws that hold the bowl to the body, that would be ideal. then you'll be able to see if the bowls are almost full.

If the bowls don't have an appreciable amount of fuel in them, you could have a number of issues, including bad seats / needles, bent or mis-adjusted float arms, stuck floats, plugged fuel lines, etc.

93sportwithkids

Just a word of caution !!!
The 600 XLT engine when properly tuned runs pretty dam good, and left stock is basically bullet proof. Unless you are highly experienced I would not recommend toying with the exhaust other than changing OEM parts.
There are 3 things that will kill a 600 Fuji faster than you will realize, and that is:
Jetting
Clutch work
Exhaust

If you get it right then you are fine. If you don't get it right have a bucket handy to pick up the pieces when it lets loose.

__________________
Thanks! TJ

1994 Polaris 440 Sport with Xtra10
1996 Polaris XLT with Xtra12
1996 Polaris Indy Lite GT

joshkidner

let me add the sled only has approx. 2200miles on it. when i cleaned the carbs last week (when it wasnt running still) the bowls were full. my goal is to put my sled in a 4/5 condition. thats why i bought parts. plan on pulling the motor and scrubbing EVERYTHING! Also, either a new hood or handlebar extensions. the hood is not stock and scrapes on the bars. i think the hood is plastic rather than fiberglass. its also gonna get some fresh paint! any suggestions on color?

meburdick

I just did a complete carb clean and rebuild on a 96 Ultra. They were pretty gummed up with gunk when I got them. After 12 hours each in the dip, thorough rinsing, and some spray carb cleaner, I put them all back together. No new parts.

I re-sync'ed the throttle and the choke plungers and re-installed them on the sled. Compression test showed 120 on all three cylinders.

It took about 15 pulls to get it started, but it ran great. I know that, once you solve this issue, you can tune your carbs correctly and get it running nice.

joshkidner

and its a triblock^ non-xlt. pipe (single and stock) and silencer are off a 97xlt (wedge chasis obviously) along with the wire harness. can add handwarmers if i want the wirin on it is rigged to shhh*** and half of it is missing. what is left is spliced together. this sled is an 87 indy 600. look in my pictures (or my profile pic) got x10 with fox shocks too. i love it (but not the work!)

joshkidner

welp my plans to work on the sled went awry. we had a huge family fight today, and my step dads pretty upset with me. anyway im probably gonna have to wait til i can go to the bank and pay for what i need myself. hopefully by monday. sighhhhh