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11-27-2012, 05:52 PM
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#1 (permalink)
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: sultan wa
Posts: 34
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PRIMARY CLUTCH ISSUES? 96 xlt rmk 600 triple
Hello folks, hope you all had a great thanksgiving! I my gal and I are hoping to get out this weekend and go riding for the first time ever! I went through the skid on my sled, replaced all bearings in the rollers, new hifax, disassemble, clean, reassemble carbs twice lol. sync. The carbs, adjusted drive chain and changed oil, new plugs, and some other extra love. Now the last step I hope is to find out if this thing should really be trying to take off at 4200-4400 rpm, seems a bit high to me, the spring in the primary clutch is bright blue with no stripe of any kind. Any help or thoughts would be appreciated! Her sled is a 98 sport 500 2cyl, and seems to go a lot sooner in the rpm range, but it also doesn't have a tach, but when you been around engines you can kinda get the "feel" so to speak. Anyhow, thanks again for your thoughts. Chris,
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11-27-2012, 06:22 PM
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#2 (permalink)
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Super Moderator
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: oregon
Posts: 10,937
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Stock spring should be a gold spring. Without a part number, it's hard to tell what spring that is, it may be after-market. Have you cleaned the clutch? Sometimes a gummed up main bushing or gummed up weights will cause late engagement. That would be my first step. If that doesn't work, replace the spring with the Polaris gold.
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11-27-2012, 06:28 PM
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#3 (permalink)
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: sultan wa
Posts: 34
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Awesome Dan, so I take it the clutch needs to be removed to do that, is there a homemade design for a clutch puller out there? No I have not been into the clutch yet. Is there any radical tension on that, that will cause parts to fly through the shop and never be found? Or does a guy just be careful and all is good?
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11-27-2012, 06:45 PM
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#4 (permalink)
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Super Moderator
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: oregon
Posts: 10,937
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Best way to remove the clutch is to buy a puller. The puller threads into the outer sheave and basically pushes the clutch off the PTO shaft. If you have good machining skills, you could make one. Don't buy cheap, cheap ones will strip.
You can remove the spring without removing the clutch. Loosen the 6 small bolts on the cover. Remove 4 of the bolts, leaving two opposite of each other. Back those two off equally until the threads clear. When the bolts are about to clear, most of the spring tension is pretty much gone, but it may pop off with a little force; just be ready for it.
Blow the dust out with compressed air first. You will be surprised how much there is. Then wash with soap and hot water. I use Simple Green and a green Scotchbrite pad. Inspect the movable sheave for smooth movement back and forth and check the rollers and weights for sticky operation and for wear.
Add new spring. When you install the cover, look for an X on the cover and a corresponding X on the spider. Make sure those X's align to maintain the factory balance. It is helpful to have two sets of hands to slightly compress the spring with the cover until a couple of bolts are started. Tighten bolts evenly and not too tight. 90 INCH LBS is the spec.
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11-27-2012, 06:46 PM
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#5 (permalink)
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Fool Injected
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Ontario Canada
Posts: 196
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That is right about where all of my XLT's came in ..
#7041080 blue for the high port motor....gold for the standard 600 with 34 carbs.
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11-27-2012, 08:17 PM
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#6 (permalink)
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: sultan wa
Posts: 34
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Thanks a bunch Dan, will investigate further tomorrow, can't thank a guy enough for continual genuine advice!
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11-27-2012, 08:25 PM
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#7 (permalink)
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: sultan wa
Posts: 34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rookiesledder17
Thanks a bunch Dan, will investigate further tomorrow, can't thank a guy enough for continual genuine advice!
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So your saying that's where yours hooked up at huh? Well I did find out that the motor had been rebuilt before I got the thing, but appears bone stock as far as anything external, exhaust, intake, carbs and what not, wish I knew more about what was done to it.
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11-28-2012, 04:54 PM
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#8 (permalink)
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: sultan wa
Posts: 34
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Well I got the primary and secondary clutches pulled today, the weights on the primary say 10M? Whatever that means, no part number on spring other than being solid blue. Am going to clean up and what not, do I hunt down another blue spring? Do I change the weights if I go gold? Is the setup I have suppose to do what its doing at 4200-4400 for takeoff? Should I do anything to the secondary? Do I dare take it apart? Thanks a bunch guys! And gals!
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11-28-2012, 06:07 PM
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#9 (permalink)
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 167
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FYI I have 2 600 XLTs out in my shop. Both have blue springs from the factory. My 650 indy has a red spring from the factory.
My 2 600 xlt engines have not been rebuilt and both have good primary clutches still on them.
I never paid much attention to the tach when I would take off. So I do not remember what the tach said. Now I just have two engines that need rebuilding but are 100% complete.
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11-28-2012, 11:53 PM
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#10 (permalink)
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Rexburg, ID
Posts: 236
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I had both a 94 and 95 XLT and both had the blue spring. I ran the 10M white weights in the 95 (6000-9000')
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