cram2012

I accidentally let my pull start cord retract into the starter recoil. I attempted to remove and repair last night, but quickly discovered that one bolt is inaccessible, and it looks like the motor mounts need to be loosened so the engine can be lifted slightly to access it.

I am new to snowmobiling and small engines in general FYI.

Is anyone familiar with this motor/situation? Do I need to remove more of the engine components to accomplish this repair? or can I simply loosen the motor mounts and tip the engine, so to speak?

Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

RJ Gleason

That is the reason that any Poo engine that has been worked on is often missing that bolt on the bottom of the recoil.
You can pry the engine up enough to get at it. Make sure that it is the first one that you remove.

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'90 Wildcat Project in progress.

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cram2012

Thanks for the quick response.

I removed the other 3 bolts last night, should I screw those back in?

Also, I loosened the engine mount in the front and it wasn't enough to access the bolt. Do I need to remove/or loosen multiple engine mounts? How many are there?

Thanks again

Polaris650freak

There are 4 motor mounts. Remove the bolts on those and tip the motor. I would put one bolt back in recoil so your not fighting with the recoil housing.


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cram2012

Excellent, thanks again for the assistance. I am not in front of my sled now, but to access the mounts do I need to remove anything else? Or go under the sled? or should I be able to access what I need from the top?

RJ Gleason

You should be able to access it from the top, easier if the exhaust is removed first.

__________________
Old Cat Rider
'93 Wildcat 700EFI
w/ Comet 108 Pro-4 clutch & 01 ZR skid

'90 Wildcat Project in progress.

Vintage (sorta)
1980 Indy Trail 440 (for sale)
1980 AC Pantera (donor engine to the 90 wildcat)


http://www.dcdrifters.net/


Senior Warden; F&AM Dryden Lodge# 472
http://www.masonicdryden472.org/

Rules of this forum are strictly enforced!

Polaris650freak

You don't need to remove the y pipe though just the pipe. You'll have to remove air box also to get to rear bolts


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joshkidner

dont have this problem with my triblock triple that is bad design. with these recoils, there is an ultra easy way to put new string in (once its out of the sled) just pull out the old string from where its knotted, twist the recoil 4-5 times back and hold it there or jam it with something (the way it would spin when you pull the cord) and push the new cord in from outside and use a small screwdriver to push it in to where you knot it. tie it, pull tight, and let the recoil rewind it for you

joshkidner

this method allows you to fix the cord without even taking anything apart in the recoil. im sure there is videos to figure this out.

BC_Dan

When you are finished, that bolt that's at the bottom of the recoil usually finds it's way to the trash.. just saying

I was lucky on my 650, I had enough room (or persistence) to remove and replace the bottom bolt. Or maybe I was just stubborn

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cram2012

I'm almost there. I got the exhaust out and air box loosened, I can see the motor mounts, however, the throttle cable needs to be removed, to slide the air box out. Should I remove (loosen) the cable at the handle bars, or carburetor? handle bar would be easier, I realize, but wanted to make sure before I proceed....patience is a virtue.

Thanks again to everyone

mikemalibu

I allways take it off the throttle. One cable vs three. There should be a c-clip holding the throttle cable housing in place. Then its just a matter of pulling the housing out if the throttle block then disconnect the flipper. Getting the c-clip back on is the hard part lol. I keep dropping them to who knows where

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cram2012

I was able to get my throttle cable off, should be able to loosen the mounts tonight and remove the bolt!

Since my air box is out and the carbs are easily accessible (and dirty) I wanted to clean them. If I remove the carbs to clean, can I re-install without having to synchronize or make adjustments to the fuel/air/idle settings? Or, by removing and opening the carbs up, do I disrupt the fuel air balance and need to re-calibrate / adjust upon putting them back on the sled?

Would it be foolish for someone with little experience to try to clean the carbs?

bigcountrysg

To clean the carbs properly you will have to tear them down. Clean and replace any worn parts. Then reassemble, then you will have to install them and then you will have to check to see if they are synchronized. You will have to readjust the carbs as well. I suggest you turn the air mixture screw in til it bottoms out. Make sure you count the turns and mark it on a piece of paper. Number the carbs 1,2,3, take one apart at a time. That way you do not mix carb parts between the carbs.

If you have never done carb work before I strongly suggest getting a friend that has experince to help.

joshkidner

i had a link from BC_Dan on step by step instructions on how to tear carbs apart, clean, and put back together, which made it very easy to do. I dont have the link anymore D:

Polaris650freak

All you need is a #2 Phillips, 6mm wrench, small flat head screwdriver, and a normal flat head screwdriver and just start tearing them apart one at a time, that way if you forget how it goes you can look at the others, carbs are sooooooo easy, there hard to mess up if you reassemble the same way you took them apart


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Polaris650freak

Forgot you also need a little punch and hammer to get the float pin out.


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cram2012

Thanks for the feedback. I am going to take a look at one this weekend. I have watched some videos and if I get stuck a local shop quoted me $30 to clean it out and reassemble.

BC_Dan

Disassembly and Cleaning of a Mikuni Round slide Carburetor

This link is found in the "How To" part of the forum. It's a great tutorial and should help you through the carbs.

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2007 Dragon RMK 700 155", 2008 RMK 600 155", 2006 RMK 600 144", 95 Prowler 550 2-up, 1990 Indy 650, Really OLD AC Cheetah

http://www.avalanche.org/accidents.php

ITriumph

Drill an access hole on side of bulkhead and use a long extention. I've done that


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