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11-05-2012, 12:25 AM
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#1 (permalink)
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 14
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looking to buy 2003 vert escape 700 with new motor . Any tips or issues with this?
Looking at a 2003 rmk 700 vert escape 700 with reverse. Has 10,000 miles with new motor at 5,000 will be checking compression and pto side with starting fluid. Any known issues? Always been a skidoo guy but this deal seems too good to pass up. Any hel would be appreciated
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11-05-2012, 08:26 AM
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#2 (permalink)
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Super Moderator
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: oregon
Posts: 10,937
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The 2003 VE was the lightest of the Edge RMK's. The 700 is a great powerplant, it's much more dependable than the bigger 800. I'm assuming the reverse is the electronic PERC, which adds very little weight. Nice sled, if it's well maintained and not beat to death, it could be a great deal. 10000 miles on the chassis would make me want to change out the driveline bearings. Check the bogey wheel bearings, as well.
Good luck!
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11-06-2012, 07:04 AM
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#3 (permalink)
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 14
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So great shape 125 psi per cyl bogey wheels great no air intake on pto side need new shocks i assume havent checked that. Has perc but beeper unhooked. Is this located in steering column? Like the idiot noise. Thanks again. I couldnt do it without forums!
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11-06-2012, 08:37 AM
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#4 (permalink)
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Super Moderator
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: oregon
Posts: 10,937
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PERC is soundless. All you get is a small blinking light on the dash to remind you if you hit the throttle hard, the sled will go zooming backwards and you get to land on the hood. Try doing that gracefully. I dare ya
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11-06-2012, 11:02 AM
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#5 (permalink)
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 14
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O ive done it. Not so gracefully before on my doo. So at idle there is a pto side knock every once in a while. Sounds like rod bearing? Prior to engagement. Nervous about it.
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11-06-2012, 03:00 PM
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#6 (permalink)
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Super Moderator
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: oregon
Posts: 10,937
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I've never been able to pull off the "gracefully flipping over the handlebars while in reverse" thing either
Sometimes you can get a knocking sound coming from the weights as they move back and forth in the clutch. That is most common at idle. You may want to get the PTO runout checked, if a rod is failing, it may show up there. Maybe listening with a mechanic's stethoscope can help you narrow down where the sound is coming from?
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11-06-2012, 05:01 PM
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#7 (permalink)
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TRH- Troll Raising Hell
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Medina, MN
Posts: 6,006
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I put tape over my backup buzzer so it wasn't as loud, but now it is too quiet.
__________________
Snow: The other white drug!
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11-06-2012, 08:07 PM
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#8 (permalink)
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 14
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Had shop look at it. Hadnt run for a year. Bad gas knock is theory. Was empty so premium and knock seems to dissapear. Some hispeed runs on lift and swimming in the first two stroke bath of year and all good it appears. So this thing rpms out at 8200 is that about right?
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11-06-2012, 10:22 PM
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#9 (permalink)
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Super Moderator
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: oregon
Posts: 10,937
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8000 +/- 100 rpm for a stock pipe is pretty standard, 8200 is ballpark. Your RPM will probably be a little less when there's work being done by the engine when you have the sled in the snow.
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11-08-2012, 09:06 AM
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#10 (permalink)
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 14
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So cleaning out the ves guillotines that are caked. Anything else i need to do? Piston wash is great. Not sure if i should check reed cages? Do they have issues on this ? Any other maintenance for the newpie polaris guy?
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11-08-2012, 11:36 AM
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#11 (permalink)
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Super Moderator
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: oregon
Posts: 10,937
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Change the chaincase oil and adjust the chain. To adjust, remove the belt, rotate the secondary forward to move all the slack on the chain to the front of the chain. Loosen the adjuster nut. Tighten the adjuster bolt finger tight and back off 1/4 turn. Re-tighten the nut.
I would do the general stuff; clean the carbs (that will allow you to at least look at the reeds to see if you can see any problems), grease the chassis points, clean both clutches, make sure skis and track are aligned, check belt offset, check belt for excessive wear, check all the bogey wheels for bad bearings. There's one grease fitting that is low on the steering column that frequently gets missed, try to get some grease in that one. If the steering is sloppy at the bars, the nut on the bottom of the steering column is probably a bit loose. You may have to remove the motor mounts and move the engine out of the way to get to that.
Check the hyfax and the ski wearbars for excessive wear.
That should keep you busy for a bit
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11-13-2012, 08:08 PM
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#12 (permalink)
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 14
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So how in the heck do you remove the bolt from the front radius(lower big fat arm going out to ski) from the frame mount? I can't get a socket on it and a 3/4 box end isn't working either? If you can help that would be great before I break every knuckle I have! Do you have to unrivet the frame piece that sits under the muffler?
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11-14-2012, 11:18 PM
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#13 (permalink)
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 14
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It took four hands but i got it. Yay for me!
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11-15-2012, 12:42 PM
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#14 (permalink)
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Super Moderator
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: oregon
Posts: 10,937
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I've never had to remove one from a sled that was not in pieces... looks like a PITA!
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