Like the post said after growing up in new england my whole life leaving for the military and now stationed back up here for a little while i decided to take the plunge in to a sled a 1997 xlt 600. I had a starting problem and i narrowed that down to the needles and the crank case flooding. that goodness for those drain plugs, so i took the carbs off and cleaned them up and put back together threw them on and with no choke on revs wicked high. if i put the chock on 1/2 throttle slow down alot almost not running. I have looked in all the post an can not seem to find a dumb man term on what is wrong. its almost like its way to lean. is there a setting that i should start with to get a good starting point with the screw( im guessing idle screw) all the way in still revs really hi with now change please help i appreciate it thank you JOSH
Air screws should be one turn out from lightly seated. You are on the right track, a high idle that's solved by application of the choke is usually a lean condition in the pilot jet circuit. You can turn the air screws in 1/8 of a turn at a time to see if the engine will idle. If adjusting until the air screw is bottomed, the pilot jet circuit is probably clogged. You may need to go back in and make sure all the air and fuel passages are clean and not clogged with varnish. Sometimes prodding a wire (I use a single strand of phone line) through the holes will dislodge any junk.
Make sure the idle screws are not lifting the slides to the point that they are over-riding the pilot jet circuit. If so, the pilot jet isn't able to do what it's intended. Back the screws off equally and see if that will slow the idle. Another thing to check.
It would be a good idea to check the PTO crank seal for leaking as well. With the engine idling, spray some carb cleaner or WD40 or engine starter around the seal. If the idle changes, the seal is leaking. If it's leaking, the lean condition can lead to a burned cylinder/piston, so that will be something to take care of soon.
Thank you for your service!
2007 Dragon RMK 700 155", 2008 RMK 600 155", 95 Prowler 550 2-up, Really OLD AC Cheetah
Welcome to the forum! Make sure you are looking at the right things on your carbs. There is an air screw and an idle screw. The flat head screw is your air screw. Like BcDan said you should start with that 1 full turn out from lightly bottomed on all 3 carbs. Second is your idle screw, looks like a flower shape on the side of the carb and has a spring behind it. Turn that all the way out until your slides are all the way to the bottom on all 3. 3rd loosen your throttle screws on all three caps to make sure the slides are not pulling up. Look into each carb as you slowly turn your idle screws until you see the slides start to rise, then back the idle screw off until the slides are barely bottomed. Now you are at your starting point and your idle will likely be very low. I like to mark the top of the idle screw to make sure I can tell how far I've turned each to make sure they are the same. Make equal adjustments across each carb until your idle sits about 1800 rpms.
im glad you clarified that for me i was adjusting the wrong ones. i got it to idle low now with the idle screw. now anyone know were you can buy a sinc tool. and do i use the air screws to adjust carbs for sinc
- Bottom "resting point" for each slide
- Maximum lift height for each slide
- "Sync" of the slide lifting so that they move at the same time
Setting the idle screw in each carb will determine the low point. From there, you just need to adjust the slide cables on each carb so that they begin to rise at the same time and end up at the same max height.
I believe that the rule of thumb for those carbs is to use a 1/8" drill bit as a gauge to set the correct bottom height setting. You use it like a feeler gauge to set the gap.