SRV2010

I saw a 1993 Indy 500 efi for sale for $275. The guy says it runs good, but needs the bearings replaced. The pictures the guy has looked sort of rough, but he said it's in good shape. I have sort of disassembled 2 Mach 1s and had trouble with the secondary so I just want some opinions on this one. Thanks

__________________
SOLD-1998 Ski Doo Formula III 700
SOLD-1990 Arctic Cat Prowler 440
SOLD-1992 Arctic Cat Wildcat 700
SOLD-1987 Polaris Indy 600
SOLD-1985 Yamaha SRV 540- in mint condition
SOLD-1979 Kawasaki Invader 440

rickytmx313

not too hard you'll have to pull off the chaincase cover to get at the bearing on that side and theirs one on the other side below the secondary clutch

rickytmx313

or are you talking about the jackshaft bearings?

POL3INAROW

You will have to pull the drive shaft to do this the practical way. If you do not pull the shaft by the time you are done with the chain side bearing you will have destroyed the seal which goes in the back of the case, so only way to replace it is to pull the shaft out. Not to mention you probably have 4 drive sprockets which will not allow you to move the axle far enough to gain access to back of chain case. Also you will most likely have to heat the set screws in the bearing collar on the clutch side and then heat the bearing to remove it, you have a very sharp angle to try and get a punch on the back side of the bearing on that side as well, due to the drive sprocket interference. Your best bet is to pull the suspension, pull the chain case, and then pull the shaft so you can work on it standing at the bench. It sounds more complicated than it really is, but trust me laying on your back fighting the clutch side bearing is not worth it! Plus if your careful you can re-use the seal if you pull the chain case, just make sure you keep the weight of the track off of the shaft while pulling the case. The seals are not expensive though, and probably should be changed at this point anyway. I have seen case bearing kits for about $25 bucks for the chain case bearings and both seals.

SRV2010

The guy said track drive shaft, so by the description you guys gave would the seal have busted or just not been greased? Also, when you say jackshaft you mean what the secondary is on? If the guy says it's not drivable as is would that be something different? One last thing, are these good sleds? Thanks

__________________
SOLD-1998 Ski Doo Formula III 700
SOLD-1990 Arctic Cat Prowler 440
SOLD-1992 Arctic Cat Wildcat 700
SOLD-1987 Polaris Indy 600
SOLD-1985 Yamaha SRV 540- in mint condition
SOLD-1979 Kawasaki Invader 440

POL3INAROW

The most common bearing failure is the one on the clutch side with grease. This would render it un-drivable. Either bearing would do it, but grease side is most over looked.The jack shaft is the upper shaft on which the secondary/driven clutch is attached to opposite the chain case. If engine is running good then YES these are great sleds for a wide variety of riders, beginners, younger kids, women, and back up/extra sled type deals. This job will run you about $75 in parts. Less if you shop a little. I am assuming both sides at that price. If chain case side is good and usually is, then maybe $30 in parts. Then spit polish and ask $????. I would be all over it if it were my deal.

SRV2010

If He still has it on Sunday I will probably get it then. I may try early tomorrow. As long as it has good compression and not too beat up. Are these reliable sleds?

__________________
SOLD-1998 Ski Doo Formula III 700
SOLD-1990 Arctic Cat Prowler 440
SOLD-1992 Arctic Cat Wildcat 700
SOLD-1987 Polaris Indy 600
SOLD-1985 Yamaha SRV 540- in mint condition
SOLD-1979 Kawasaki Invader 440

bakon

I've got the same sled, the motor is very reliable.

wastedincome

I did drive shaft bearings last year and as mentioned it was about $75 for parts from my local dealer. It took around 2-3hrs to do. One thing to be careful about is the bolt that holds the lower chain case gear to drive shaft. Its a low grade bolt and WILL break easily if over torqued. Good luck

__________________
02' XCSP 600 EDGE-X with M-10

SRV2010

What all do you have to take off to get to these bearings? Do you have to take the track off? Also, do you have to do anything with special tools, to get the bearings in or out? Thanks

__________________
SOLD-1998 Ski Doo Formula III 700
SOLD-1990 Arctic Cat Prowler 440
SOLD-1992 Arctic Cat Wildcat 700
SOLD-1987 Polaris Indy 600
SOLD-1985 Yamaha SRV 540- in mint condition
SOLD-1979 Kawasaki Invader 440

wastedincome

Remove belt then the bolt that hold secondary clutch so u can get secodary clutch OFF. You will likely need to remove your exhaust to gain better access to the chain case cover. Remove chain case cover and remove bolt that holds lower gear to drive shaft & remove gear. Next up is to lossen your track all the way via adjusters. Now there should be 3 bolts per side that hold the bearings between 2 plates. After that you should be able to remove the drive shaft.
I may have missed a step or 2 BUT that should get you mostly there. You may need to remove the 4 bolts that hold the skid to tunnel, I forget. No special tools are required

__________________
02' XCSP 600 EDGE-X with M-10

robhill1965

Pull the skid completely out. It's really hard to get that shaft out if you have to fight around the skid. Just loosen the rear wheels, loosen the track adjuster all the way, take the tension off your springs by swinging the lower portion of the spring off of the slider (down and back), disconnect all 4 skid mount bolts, turn the sled on it's side and it will lift out of the track.
Remove the chain case cover, then chain and gears, and finally the whole chain case. Take the brake caliper off, remove the belt and the secondary clutch.
This will leave just the bolts that hold in the bearings (top and bottom on clutch side).
You can buy bearing kits for about $25 each that include 2 bearings, seals, o-rings, and spacers so total cost would be about $50.
It took me a full day to do by myself.

MikeDeez

Do I have to remove the driveshaft just to change the lower driveshaft in the chaincase? And if not can someone please explain how difficult this case is o remove because I have the cover, gears, chains removed and the 4 top bolts to the caliper out but not the actual caliper yet.

Thanks

Lank

I added pictures to my profile of the shaft removed. I can give you a detailed description of what needs to be removed and how to remove it if you require. The pictures are from a 1995 500 with reverse and only two drive cogs on the main shaft. If your parts look different the procedure will be different.
Let me know if you need help and also if yours is the same setup.

MikeDeez

Those pictures were great but I thought it would be much better if I posed my question in video format. I am big fan of people doing videos of this type of stuff so others can see clearly what is going on.

__________________
1992 Indy 500 EFI
1993 Indy 500 Carbed
1988 Arctic Cat Cougar 500 F/C
1987 Ski-Doo Escaped (down with broken track)

MikeDeez

Any advice on how to get this chain case off?

__________________
1992 Indy 500 EFI
1993 Indy 500 Carbed
1988 Arctic Cat Cougar 500 F/C
1987 Ski-Doo Escaped (down with broken track)

Lank

looking at the video, I see the main shaft is wedged against the side of the cover. personally I've never taken that style off, but what I would do first is loosen off the track, remove the skid, take off the secondary, remove the bearing by the speedo, and take the drive shaft completely out.

zobenv

did this same job a couple years ago. indy 400- same thing.
i ended up soaking and tapping for many weeks, mine was stuck on the jack shaft, looks like you are the same cause your lower bearing is toast. it was not pretty but i went to ebay to see how much the whole set up would cost if i killed it (chain case) then i took a long drift with a nice long tapper inserted between the brake rotor and the chain case and beat beat the drift in. it finally popped and did not kill anything. good luck

(i had to really get aggressive with it- don't forget to cuss)

MikeDeez

LOL, yeah I have been doing plenty of that already. I will try beating on it harder and maybe even pull the skid like Lank said as well.

__________________
1992 Indy 500 EFI
1993 Indy 500 Carbed
1988 Arctic Cat Cougar 500 F/C
1987 Ski-Doo Escaped (down with broken track)

Lank

Read the repair manual, it explains how to get the chain cover off. I was looking for torque specs for mine and as I was scrolling down I came across the procedure to remove yours. (don't beat or pry the chain cover)