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01-29-2012, 06:07 PM
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#1 (permalink)
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Norwich, Vermont
Posts: 80
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i'm 13 and need some help with a indy 500 efi!
lets start off by saying that i'm 13...
now, i received a free polaris indy 500 efi for free... only problem is that the motor is blown!
my biggest question (though there are many) is where can i find a FREE manual?
also, i have to keep this project cheap because for every penny i put into it, my dad says i have to put a penny into my other motor (see attached picture).
one last question... does anyone have any advice on how to pull the head the RIGHT way? i'm sure i'll do it the wrong way  (if i don't get any help.....!)
thanks!
epwhitehairx
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01-29-2012, 06:30 PM
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#2 (permalink)
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Sconnie
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Mount Horeb, Wisconsin
Posts: 1,741
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at the library! That where I started when I was that age. Its free and I could get them for 4 weeks! I still use it once in a while, just had to find a manual for a sled a couple weeks ago and just got it from the library.
As far as removing the head, it's pretty easy. Take head bolts off, crack seal with light tapping of a rubber mallet. Don't use a screwdriver.
Those are pretty common motors so parts are pretty cheap. expect about 40 for a gasket kit, 40/piston and ring, so 80 total there, and 30/cylinder to bore it. so about 200 bucks total for a complete rebuild with bored out cylinders. Unless you have the tools to hone it yourself and it doesn't need to be bored out.
Obviously you will have to make sure it hasn't been bored to it's max yet. the manual will tell you all this too.
order the stock piston brand for that engine. they're perfectly good and cheaper.
taking pictures also helps so you can get it back together eventually. remember, do it right the first time or you will be doing it again
and welcome to the sport! Thats exactly how I started out.
btw, what engine are you working on in your pic?
__________________
1992 Polaris RXL 650 EFI
1990 Skidoo Formula MX 470
1997 Skidoo Grand Touring 500
1997 Arctic Cat Pantera 580
1979 Ford F150
~360 5.9L, Edelbrock intake, 4bbl carb, 4 speed, divorced transfer case, 3" body lift, 3" suspension lift, 33's, redone interior. Next up is stronger axles.
1981 Suzuki GS850L
And, I am a firm believer in the Buffalo Theory!
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01-29-2012, 06:33 PM
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#3 (permalink)
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: newyork
Posts: 1,051
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welcome to the forum
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01-29-2012, 07:44 PM
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#4 (permalink)
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 593
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my friend Dave has been kind enough to gather lots of snowmobile manuals including the one for your sled. download them for free here......
Snowmobile manuals lots of them... at Snowmobile Fanatics - Forum
what kind of engine are you working on in your photo? Looks like a very small inline four .
Welder maybe?
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01-30-2012, 07:40 AM
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#5 (permalink)
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Norwich, Vermont
Posts: 80
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thanks everyone! i downloaded the manual and it is great! i also got the head off, and all that i need is a new piston. it seems as if the spark plug dropped down into the cylinder and blew a hole straight through the piston. i'll attach a picture
the motor i'm working on is a universal atomic four sail boat motor. it is 30 horsepower and VERY low compression!
i'm located in central vermont, does anyone know where i could get a cheap/free piston? used is fine....!
thanks!
ebben
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01-30-2012, 07:42 AM
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#6 (permalink)
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Norwich, Vermont
Posts: 80
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shoot! the manuals that you gave me the link for are all in a format for windows... which i can't open because i have a mac
anyone have any other ideas?
thanks!
ebben
Last edited by epwhitehair; 01-30-2012 at 07:58 AM.
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01-30-2012, 08:06 AM
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#7 (permalink)
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Southern NH (Amherst)
Posts: 391
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That hole is not from the plug. It's because your engine is running way to lean. It melted that hole. And be sure to bring ur cylinders into a shop to be miced.
As for the pistons go on eBay and buy a SPI piston kit with complete gasket kit. It will run you 190, but that's cheaper than buying everything separate. I believe your engine is a 488cc. All the piston kits for Indy 500 (488) are the same from 1985 - 1999.
Sent from my iPod
__________________
-my ride
2003 arctic cat zl550 (looking to sell)
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01-30-2012, 08:13 AM
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#8 (permalink)
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Super Moderator
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Groton NY
Posts: 29,536
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Al's Snowmobile Parts Warehouse - Snowmobile Parts, Snowmobile Parts, and More Snowmobile Parts
Best source near you for new or used parts.
Recoil side, looks like?
Check that the throttle body adapter flanges are not creaked or torn.
That hole is from a lean condition which was caused by either an air leak or coolant in the cylinder.
I recommend a complete tear down and gasket/seals replacement to ensure that does not happen again.
__________________
Old Cat Rider
'93 Wildcat 700EFI
w/ Comet 108 Pro-4 clutch & 01 ZR skid
'90 Wildcat Project in progress.
Vintage (sorta)
1980 Indy Trail 440 (for sale)
1980 AC Pantera (donor engine to the 90 wildcat)
http://www.dcdrifters.net/
Senior Warden; F&AM Dryden Lodge# 472
http://www.masonicdryden472.org/
Rules of this forum are strictly enforced!
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01-30-2012, 08:15 AM
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#9 (permalink)
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Norwich, Vermont
Posts: 80
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coolant in the engine! that was the problem! there was coolant all thru the cylinders. i know i need a new head gasket and piston and rings. i assume that the engine is liquid cooled?
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01-30-2012, 08:21 AM
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#10 (permalink)
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Super Moderator
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Groton NY
Posts: 29,536
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Yes it is.
You should also do the crank seals as a safety measure.
__________________
Old Cat Rider
'93 Wildcat 700EFI
w/ Comet 108 Pro-4 clutch & 01 ZR skid
'90 Wildcat Project in progress.
Vintage (sorta)
1980 Indy Trail 440 (for sale)
1980 AC Pantera (donor engine to the 90 wildcat)
http://www.dcdrifters.net/
Senior Warden; F&AM Dryden Lodge# 472
http://www.masonicdryden472.org/
Rules of this forum are strictly enforced!
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01-30-2012, 08:23 AM
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#11 (permalink)
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Norwich, Vermont
Posts: 80
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this is random, but i would assume that the connecting rod is fine? i think i will be ordering parts tonight!
thanks so much!
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01-30-2012, 08:23 AM
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#12 (permalink)
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: newyork
Posts: 1,051
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yes its liquid cooled
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01-30-2012, 09:30 AM
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#13 (permalink)
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Sconnie
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Mount Horeb, Wisconsin
Posts: 1,741
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Redo your crank seals! Do it right the first time or it will happen again!
__________________
1992 Polaris RXL 650 EFI
1990 Skidoo Formula MX 470
1997 Skidoo Grand Touring 500
1997 Arctic Cat Pantera 580
1979 Ford F150
~360 5.9L, Edelbrock intake, 4bbl carb, 4 speed, divorced transfer case, 3" body lift, 3" suspension lift, 33's, redone interior. Next up is stronger axles.
1981 Suzuki GS850L
And, I am a firm believer in the Buffalo Theory!
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01-30-2012, 10:14 AM
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#14 (permalink)
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Norwich, Vermont
Posts: 80
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i'm a little confused and just trying to figure this out... what do crank seals have to do with the head leaking coolant?
thanks!
ebben
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01-30-2012, 11:15 AM
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#15 (permalink)
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Norwich, Vermont
Posts: 80
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oops.. a little unclear but i get it now. i have to remove the bottom of then engine to loosen the connecting rod. do i have to remove the engine to do this?
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01-30-2012, 12:09 PM
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#16 (permalink)
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Sconnie
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Mount Horeb, Wisconsin
Posts: 1,741
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well that piston has a hole burnt through it because It was running super lean. There are two crank seals (one clutch side, one recoil side) that can go bad and let in air. This is usually what causes a motor to blow, as they it seems they typically only last about 5-6000 miles. (on average). So as long as you are this far, it is best to replace them on the chance that they were the reason for it blowing.
That hole to me does not look like it was totaly caused by just coolant hitting it. It is not a sharp break at all, it is a hole that melted through. from running lean. so better safe than sorry, and replace them
yes you would have to totally take the engine apart. heads, , jugs, then pistons, then split the crankcase, take crank out, replace seals, put everything back together.
you will need to pull the stator off and it might make it easier to pull the clutch as well.
You should not need to replace connecting rod, so don't worry about loosening it.
__________________
1992 Polaris RXL 650 EFI
1990 Skidoo Formula MX 470
1997 Skidoo Grand Touring 500
1997 Arctic Cat Pantera 580
1979 Ford F150
~360 5.9L, Edelbrock intake, 4bbl carb, 4 speed, divorced transfer case, 3" body lift, 3" suspension lift, 33's, redone interior. Next up is stronger axles.
1981 Suzuki GS850L
And, I am a firm believer in the Buffalo Theory!
Last edited by jKsled; 01-30-2012 at 12:47 PM.
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01-30-2012, 12:12 PM
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#17 (permalink)
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Norwich, Vermont
Posts: 80
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jKsled
well that piston has a hole burnt through it because It was running super lean. There are two crank seals (one clutch side, one recoil side) that can go bad and let in air. This is usually what causes a motor to blow, as they it seems they typically only last about 5-6000 miles. (on average). So as long as you are this far, it is best to replace them on the chance that they were the reason for it blowing.
That hole to me does not look like it was totaly caused by just coolant hitting it. It is not a sharp break at all, it is a hole that melted through. from running lean. so better safe than sorry, and replace them
yes you would have to totally take the engine apart. heads, then pistons, then split the crankcase, take crank out, replace seals, put everything back together.
you will need to pull the stator off and it might make it easier to pull the clutch as well.
You should not need to replace connecting rod, so don't worry about loosening it.
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wow, that's a lot! when you say to pull the pistons before splitting the crank case, does that mean that they can come out without getting to the crankshaft?
thanks!
ebben
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01-30-2012, 12:48 PM
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#18 (permalink)
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Sconnie
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Mount Horeb, Wisconsin
Posts: 1,741
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well ya thats generally the order to rebuild the engine. yes same as your other inline 4, you pull the jugs/cylinders off the pistons and then take the pistons off the connecting rods.
__________________
1992 Polaris RXL 650 EFI
1990 Skidoo Formula MX 470
1997 Skidoo Grand Touring 500
1997 Arctic Cat Pantera 580
1979 Ford F150
~360 5.9L, Edelbrock intake, 4bbl carb, 4 speed, divorced transfer case, 3" body lift, 3" suspension lift, 33's, redone interior. Next up is stronger axles.
1981 Suzuki GS850L
And, I am a firm believer in the Buffalo Theory!
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01-30-2012, 05:00 PM
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#19 (permalink)
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Norwich, Vermont
Posts: 80
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alright so i got the manual. it says to pull the flywheel, then to remove stator screws, and then supposedly the cylinders will pop right out? i must be missing something... i assume that the flywheel is located next to the centrifugal clutch?
thanks!
ebben
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01-30-2012, 05:09 PM
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#20 (permalink)
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: newyork
Posts: 1,051
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behind rewind
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