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Old 01-20-2012, 05:15 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Track too tight

I just put a new track on my Ultra and it is way too tight. Tensioners haven't even been tightened yet. It is very hard to turn using the secondary and almost impossible by grabbing the track.

Everything is in good order in the chain case, both driveshaft bearings are good.

I had the skid out to put new hyfax on and greased it up. I did have the shocks off to check them too. The only thing I changed is the preload on the front track shock, it was all the way down and I turned it up to whee it should be for me.

Any thoughts?
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Old 01-20-2012, 05:54 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Is the rolling resistance too hard, or the track actually tight on the skid? if you push down lightley on the track on the bottom of the skid while it is propped up, you should be able to get a 1" or better gap. That would show tension is fine, this happened to a buddy and I when swapping a new 1.25 track on his RXL, could not turn it by hand, and it would barely move, smoking the belt if we tried too hard. Turned out my buddy had adjusted the chaincase tensioner with a wrench.... binding up the chaincase and making the drivetrain almost impossible to move. Backed it off, then turned it in finger tight to just put tension on chain case, and thats all it took, track turned fine, and it would lift the skis on take off. Double check for binding in the chain case, even if it means pulling the cover and draining lube.
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Old 01-20-2012, 06:16 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Actually, it is both. Very hard to roll and very tight on the skid.

I can't get it to push down hardly at all.

I did also verify that it is the right track for the machine (121x15 2.52 pitch)

I will try the chain tension again, though it was just set properly.

I had a clearance issue between the track and tunnel protector strips, so I dropped the rear of the skid and removed the strips. It was just as hard to turn when it was contacting the strips as it is now that there is clearance.
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Old 01-24-2012, 12:11 AM   #4 (permalink)
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you removed your tunnel supports? did you replace the front a-arm in the skid or move skid hole locations on the tunnel?
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Old 01-24-2012, 07:26 AM   #5 (permalink)
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For what it's worth, those strips do little if any to support the tunnel. They might add a fraction of rigidity.

I changed nothing in the skid, aside from the preload on the front shock, and it is bolted in the same spot it came out of.

I'll get back to it tonight or tomorrow, I have a van in the garage right now I am working on.
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Old 01-24-2012, 11:08 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
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Actually, it is both. Very hard to roll and very tight on the skid.

I can't get it to push down hardly at all.

...
It should hang a little on its own. You should be able to press it down and get 2-3 fingers between the track and the hyfax. If not - you need to loosen the track tensioners at the rear of the skid!

You want the track as LOOSE as you can get it, without it ratcheting on the drivers.
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Old 01-24-2012, 11:29 AM   #7 (permalink)
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It should hang a little on its own. You should be able to press it down and get 2-3 fingers between the track and the hyfax. If not - you need to loosen the track tensioners at the rear of the skid!

You want the track as LOOSE as you can get it, without it ratcheting on the drivers.
There is NO tension on the track. As a matter of fact, there is 1/2" between the end of the bolt and the block on the axle.
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Old 01-24-2012, 11:42 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Did you loosened the the rear axle bolts to adj. the tension?

If you did; than try shortening the front limiter strap.
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Old 01-25-2012, 11:32 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Just for yucks, make sure your cogs are "in" the track and not pressing against the inside of the track. You'd lose a good inch or so if they're not.
Make sure you have loosened the bolts on the rear wheels so the shaft can slide forward. You may have to use a rubber mallet to get them to go forward as they do tend to stick sometimes.
Also, make sure your tension bolts are backed out to allow it to move.
If it's the right track, it has to be one of these three things.
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Old 01-25-2012, 01:06 PM   #10 (permalink)
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There is NO tension on the track. As a matter of fact, there is 1/2" between the end of the bolt and the block on the axle.
Sounds like the rear axle is stuck. like others have said, make sure the axle bolts are loose and you may need to encourage it to move.

Good luck.
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Old 01-25-2012, 01:37 PM   #11 (permalink)
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I usually have to place a 2x4 against the track, and give it a few good whacks with a large rubber mallet.
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Old 01-25-2012, 02:05 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mmgg View Post
Did you loosened the the rear axle bolts to adj. the tension?

If you did; than try shortening the front limiter strap.
Quote:
Originally Posted by robhill1965 View Post
Just for yucks, make sure your cogs are "in" the track and not pressing against the inside of the track. You'd lose a good inch or so if they're not.
Make sure you have loosened the bolts on the rear wheels so the shaft can slide forward. You may have to use a rubber mallet to get them to go forward as they do tend to stick sometimes.
Also, make sure your tension bolts are backed out to allow it to move.
If it's the right track, it has to be one of these three things.
Quote:
Originally Posted by rbrumm View Post
Sounds like the rear axle is stuck. like others have said, make sure the axle bolts are loose and you may need to encourage it to move.

Good luck.
Quote:
Originally Posted by rgoers View Post
I usually have to place a 2x4 against the track, and give it a few good whacks with a large rubber mallet.
Good suggestions guys. I appreciate it. I will loosen the bolts next time I work on it. I believe the rear axle is all the way forward though.

Just for grins, someone want to check the track specs again for me? Camoplast part # 2602-002.

I realize this in an AC part number, shouldn't matter though as is the same specs as a track for my Polaris.
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1997 Polaris Ultra
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http://www.travelwisconsin.com/snow-...mobile#/Report

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10-11 miles: 425

11-12 miles: 362

12-13 miles: .7
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Old 01-25-2012, 06:19 PM   #13 (permalink)
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the track will fit. make sure you dont have the rear shock arm that pivots and compresses with the suspension flipped too far past its travel point so that the skid doesnt compress and cycle properly. Ive done that. Just look where the lower shock bolt attaches, you will see the arm that moves around and make sure its sitting in there right, it can get flipped too far without even dissasembling it.


Also, you dropped your skid... I have a feeling thats where the problem is. You change lots of geometry by doing this, but was it in a factory supplied hole? Or did you make one?
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Old 01-25-2012, 07:12 PM   #14 (permalink)
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the track will fit. make sure you dont have the rear shock arm that pivots and compresses with the suspension flipped too far past its travel point so that the skid doesnt compress and cycle properly. Ive done that. Just look where the lower shock bolt attaches, you will see the arm that moves around and make sure its sitting in there right, it can get flipped too far without even dissasembling it.


Also, you dropped your skid... I have a feeling thats where the problem is. You change lots of geometry by doing this, but was it in a factory supplied hole? Or did you make one?
I will check it out. Anything is possible at this point.

Sorry for the confusion, I dropped it, meaning I took it out.
It is in the stock location, there are no extra holes for the xtra-12.

One the van gets out of the way (day 3 waiting for parts.....................) I will tear into it again.
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1997 Polaris Ultra
1997 Polaris XLT Special

http://www.travelwisconsin.com/snow-...mobile#/Report

http://osceolavalleysnogoers.com/


10-11 miles: 425

11-12 miles: 362

12-13 miles: .7
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Old 01-26-2012, 12:00 PM   #15 (permalink)
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To get around the "geometry issue", I always take the spring off it's forward slide point on both sides of the sled. You'll have to tip it over for the spring to swing down and back out of the way. That relieves the tension and makes it much easier to take off and put back on. It allows the top rear of the track (where the rear shock mounts) to drop down. You should be able to rotate your track like this now to make sure it's seated where it's supposed to be (aligned and onto your front cog). Once you're sure it's on correctly, tip you sled over on each side again and put the springs back. Again, make sure your rear axle is all the way forward and the bolts are loose.
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Old 01-26-2012, 01:16 PM   #16 (permalink)
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To get around the "geometry issue", I always take the spring off it's forward slide point on both sides of the sled. You'll have to tip it over for the spring to swing down and back out of the way. That relieves the tension and makes it much easier to take off and put back on. It allows the top rear of the track (where the rear shock mounts) to drop down. You should be able to rotate your track like this now to make sure it's seated where it's supposed to be (aligned and onto your front cog). Once you're sure it's on correctly, tip you sled over on each side again and put the springs back. Again, make sure your rear axle is all the way forward and the bolts are loose.
I use the same trick (take springs off front slide points) but instead of having to tip the sled back and forth, I lift the rear off the ground about a foot. That makes it easy to swing the springs around. It's also easy to get the skid in and out that way. I put a floor jack under it, and use the jack to roll it and raise it into place.
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Old 01-26-2012, 01:38 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Yeah, I can't jack mine up high enough so i just tip it over. It's also easier to use gravity and drop the skid down into the track than have to wrestle it up, over, and into.
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Old 01-26-2012, 05:38 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Here are a few pics how it sits now.

Finally got the part I need to fix the vehicle in the garage and will look at the sled later tonight or tomorrow night.



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1997 Polaris Ultra
1997 Polaris XLT Special

http://www.travelwisconsin.com/snow-...mobile#/Report

http://osceolavalleysnogoers.com/


10-11 miles: 425

11-12 miles: 362

12-13 miles: .7
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Old 01-27-2012, 06:06 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Update:

I am a moron..................

Got the garage cleared last night, moved the sled over and loosened the rear axle(wheel) bolts a little more. Guess what, there is slack in the track. LOTS of slack.

I figured the rear axle was all the way forward already, so it never dawned on me to check the bolts again. Figured I messed something else up when the skid was out.

Thanks to all who helped with this
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1997 Polaris Ultra
1997 Polaris XLT Special

http://www.travelwisconsin.com/snow-...mobile#/Report

http://osceolavalleysnogoers.com/


10-11 miles: 425

11-12 miles: 362

12-13 miles: .7
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Old 01-27-2012, 06:26 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Update:

I am a moron..................

Got the garage cleared last night, moved the sled over and loosened the rear axle(wheel) bolts a little more. Guess what, there is slack in the track. LOTS of slack.

I figured the rear axle was all the way forward already, so it never dawned on me to check the bolts again. Figured I messed something else up when the skid was out.

Thanks to all who helped with this
LOL, I think we have ALL had moments such as yours....Glad u got it all sorted out
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