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Old 10-01-2011, 08:28 PM   #1 (permalink)
1993 Polaris xlt 580
 
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Smile 93 xlt 580

I recently picked up a 1993 polaris xlt 580 special with 5100 miles for a pretty good deal. According to the guy, the engine was completely rebuilt 1000 miles ago to put in some after-market pistons (he wasn't sure what brand or anything because he wasn't the one who did it) and some parts of the clutch aren't stock. This is my first sled, and there wasn't an owners manual, so I picked up a clymer's shop guide for it. Overall, the sled looks like it's in pretty good shape, the engine runs great and everything, but I noticed a couple things, and I don't know if they are a problem.

1. When I first got it and ran it in the garage, I noticed that the throttle trigger had a bit of play in it, and if it was at neutral and it angled down, it would kill the engine. I was curious why it did this because it was slightly obnoxious, so I took apart the throttle box on the handle bars, and found a loose wire that was barely connected to the kill switch. I disconnected it, and it seemed to go away, but I'm not sure what the purpose of the wire is...

2. Some coolant is slowly leaking around the water pump. It seems to be a steady, slow leak, and I'm not sure if it's a problem worth addressing.

3. The oil line leading to the oil injector to one of the carbs is leaking right where it connects. Once again, It is a very slow, steady leak.

Also, I was wondering if there is anything I should check after getting a used snowmobile like this? The guy I bought it from didn't have the sled for very long, he wanted something bigger, but it sounded like he didn't do much to it and for it.

Thanks!
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Old 10-01-2011, 08:36 PM   #2 (permalink)
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definately want to address those leaks. what starts as a small leak turns into a river and new motor in no time. the oil line is it the line or the fitting may be a super easy fix. check compression clean carbs
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Old 10-01-2011, 08:45 PM   #3 (permalink)
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The compression is fine, I got that covered. I don't remember the numbers, but they were right where they needed to be. I was thinking I should just clean the carbs too... as for the oil line, the clip is just a spring, and the line is sort of brittle, so I should just replace it all, and to get the water pump off, how much coolant do I have to drain?
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Old 10-01-2011, 08:50 PM   #4 (permalink)
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i havent had to mess with my xlt at all since i bought it but shouldnt be a whole lot in there id just drain it all and replace
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Old 10-01-2011, 09:15 PM   #5 (permalink)
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ok. How do you control the flow of the coolant to minimize the mess?
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Old 10-01-2011, 09:42 PM   #6 (permalink)
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A shop vac works good for that, just suck enough out so that when you remove the heads and jugs there is no spillage.
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Old 10-02-2011, 11:16 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RJ Gleason View Post
A shop vac works good for that, just suck enough out so that when you remove the heads and jugs there is no spillage.
Wow, shop vac.... never thought of that. Great tip!

If it's like my 94XLT, I would suggest repacing those brittle fuel and oil lines. Also inspect and grease the suspension, check the bearings and replace the bad ones before the season starts.
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Old 10-02-2011, 05:46 PM   #8 (permalink)
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The bearings seem fine, but I was going to check the jackshaft bearings. I will grease that too. Also, are their supposed to be springs connected the y manifold to the pipe? The little hooks on it are broken off, and there is a crack in the y manifold... It seems like it would take either a massive crash or a massive idiot to do that, but that is the only damage on the whole sled... Everything else is pretty much mint.
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Old 10-02-2011, 06:06 PM   #9 (permalink)
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There are supposed to be springs holding the joint tight. If the tabs are missing, then you should replace the Y pipe at least and/or weld the crack and attach new tabs.
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Old 10-03-2011, 07:46 AM   #10 (permalink)
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good idea on replacing the oil lines, and be sure that the little brass nipple that the leaking line is on is not plugged.... and be sure to prime the oil lines with oil, you dont want to run the engine on straight gas waiting for the oil line to prime up...

And after I typed that it hit me, you can install them with out priming, as long as you premix some gas / oil to run the sled on until the lines prime up.
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Old 10-03-2011, 09:32 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Replace all the oil lines and premix that first tank after you mess with the oil pump, like jrscars suggests. That way you ensure adaquate lubrication if the air didn't get bled out of the system. If you don't, and the pump fails for any reason, you will make it about 4.5 miles before the engine seizes from lack of oil. Trust me on that one!
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Old 10-03-2011, 09:47 PM   #12 (permalink)
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I heard that too, and it was stressed pretty heavily. Well, I think I found something to do till snow comes! Also, the sled idles at about 4000 rpms, or just under that. The clutch isn't engaging at idle, and I heard the xlt's tend to rev high until they warm up. I haven't had it running for more than 3-5 minutes at a time just in my garage, and the block doesn't get very hot, just warm to the touch, because I just rev it a little to move fluid around and make sure everything is working.
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Old 10-04-2011, 09:57 AM   #13 (permalink)
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It should idle around 1900 and clutch should engage around 3700 unless the cutch is modified. If it's idling at 4000 there is something wrong. Check the carb boots for cracks or could be leaking crank seals or just carb adjustment/cleaning.
My XLT idles at 1800/2000 within 30 seconds of cold start. You don't want to run it with a vacuum leak....runs lean and burns pistons and overheats. Can cause some serious damage. Check those carb boots or maybe just replace them if there is any sign of dry rot. Cheap insurance!
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Old 10-04-2011, 09:27 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Oh really? I will have to check that out... I don't know how lean it is though, it is pretty smokey... It has been above seventy degrees every time I've ran it though
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Old 10-05-2011, 12:38 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Also, I don't know if anyone else addressed your original question about the throttle. There is a safety feature built into the throttle lever that kills the engine if the throttle cable sticks....wouldn't want you WOT into a tree or something. There are two switches, one next to where the cable runs between the housing and throttle lever and another in the slotted hole that the lever pivot pin goes through. Setting the proper gap for the throttle lever should be addressed in your Clymer manual. The idea being that when you're off the throttle one button is pushed and when you're on the throttle the other is pushed. Need both not pushed to kill the engine.....i.e, stuck cable. I think that wire you disconnected may need to be fixed too.

Since the engine was gone through 1000 miles ago I would assume the crank seals are good so your high idle is most likely either the carbs really need cleaned and adjusted or those rubber boots between the carbs and engine are leaking.
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Old 10-05-2011, 04:16 PM   #16 (permalink)
1993 Polaris xlt 580
 
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oh! that makes sense. But the problem was that it would kill the engine when it was idling anyway, and that was a little obnoxious... but I will check that out!

Yeah, I am going to do a complete tear down in a couple of weeks when I finally have some time to sit down and work on it.
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Old 10-20-2011, 11:23 PM   #17 (permalink)
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One more things, so from what I have found, this sled has been tuned for some horsepower. from what I have found, the pistons are not stock, the clutch has been tuned, and the air box is gutted. I don't mind the first two, but is the gutted air box bad? I plan on just using my xlt for trail riding, nothing more.
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Old 10-21-2011, 12:33 AM   #18 (permalink)
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on the play in the throttle is ok. there is a lil play in it. it is a safety thing. there are 2 buttons on it and one always has to be pressed in for it to run. if you look there you will see them.
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Old 10-21-2011, 12:35 AM   #19 (permalink)
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also what do you mean the air box is gutted? there isn't anything in them to start with.
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98 xcf 440 (wifes sled)
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92 indy 500 bored,clutched. piped(sold)
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Old 10-21-2011, 12:43 AM   #20 (permalink)
1993 Polaris xlt 580
 
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Oh really? I was reading somewhere else that people "gut" air boxes, and didn't go into any further detail... I got the trottle problem cleared up, and I pulled the carbs off and cleaned all three (turns out the idle speed was set high...), and bought a new y pipe because there was a massive crack and no spring holders. now, all I have to do is replace oil lines and she's ready for winter!
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