Drive Train Bearing Replacement - Snowmobile Forum: Your #1 Snowmobile Forum

twotonetony · 08-25-2011, 08:05 AM

I'm new here so I hope all will have patience with me. If answers to my questions are already posted, please let me know where I can find them.

Last year I pulled my skid and replaced the track. While doing so, I replaced the chaincase oil seal and bearing on the drive train. I took my sled out and lost my speedo immediately. The other day I removed my speedo adaptor and found that both speedo key and bearing were shot.

I now will replace bearings on both sides and I'm looking for an easier way of doing this without having to remove the skid.

Thank you for any help you can offer.

**BC_Dan** · 08-25-2011, 11:22 AM

What sled? I have found the easiest way is to pull the skid, it makes it easier when you can move stuff around to get the track out. Some guys have been able to loosen things up on some sleds and slide the bearing out, but that won't work on pressed on bearings. And even some of the bearings that have the locking collar are a PITA to remove when they are OUT of the sled, and impossible when they are in!

Welcome to the forum!

JheLrey · 08-25-2011, 09:04 PM

Welcome! From MN as well...

Remove the skid! Easier!

twotonetony · 08-25-2011, 09:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BC_Dan

What sled? I have found the easiest way is to pull the skid, it makes it easier when you can move stuff around to get the track out. Some guys have been able to loosen things up on some sleds and slide the bearing out, but that won't work on pressed on bearings. And even some of the bearings that have the locking collar are a PITA to remove when they are OUT of the sled, and impossible when they are in!

Welcome to the forum!

Sorry, I thought I noted sled. 2002 Polaris XC SP Edge X 600. The drive shaft bearing on the clutch side blew out so I don't have to remove that. I need to remove the chaincase to get at the other bearing. I thought if I could loosen the track I could move the drive shaft toward the clutch side in order to remove the bearing in the chaincase. I'm not sure what a pressed on bearing is or a locking collar. The bearing on the chaincase is held in by an oil seal on one side and the retaining ring on the other side. I replaced this bearing and oil seal last year when I threw on a new track. I haven't broken into the chaincase yet to see if the bearing needs to be replaced but I'm assuming it will be damaged since the bearing on the clutch side was completely destroyed.

**BC_Dan** · 08-25-2011, 10:35 PM

The bearing on the driveline PTO side is pressed on. I don't recall removing the chaincase to get the driveline out; just remove the sprocket set on the chaincase side and you should be able to slide the driveline sideways. I did this a couple of times on my Edge 800 and I do recall taking pics, I'll try to locate the disk.

Once you get the driveline out, the easiest way to remove the dead bearing is to whack it off with a hammer. The inner race is still probably on the driveline. It's common for the bearing to come apart and lose the outer race and balls, but leave the inner. You may have to take a drift and whack at it to get it off. Then press on the new one. There's a shoulder on the driveline that places the bearing, so you don't have to worry about going too far.

The PTO side bearing is pretty open to all sorts of contamination and water via the tunnel, that's why the bearing fails on that side more frequentlly. The bearing is shielded both sides, so when you put grease into the speedometer adapter, none of the grease actually makes it's way into the bearing. Some guys will remove the shield from the side the grease is coming in so that the bearing gets some grease but if you do that, you have to be careful not to "grease" the seal out on the other side.

Other things to look for; sometimes when the bearing on the PTO side fails, it drops the driveline enough that the chain is tweaked. The bottom sprocket may also gouge the chaincase and can also be damaged. Make sure to check there while it's apart. It's also common for the chaincase cover to get tweaked enough that the chaincase leaks fluid. Sometimes you can make those flat again, sometimes you will have to find a different one.

Good luck, hope it goes easy!

twotonetony · 08-26-2011, 08:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BC_Dan

The bearing on the driveline PTO side is pressed on. I don't recall removing the chaincase to get the driveline out; just remove the sprocket set on the chaincase side and you should be able to slide the driveline sideways. I did this a couple of times on my Edge 800 and I do recall taking pics, I'll try to locate the disk.

Once you get the driveline out, the easiest way to remove the dead bearing is to whack it off with a hammer. The inner race is still probably on the driveline. It's common for the bearing to come apart and lose the outer race and balls, but leave the inner. You may have to take a drift and whack at it to get it off. Then press on the new one. There's a shoulder on the driveline that places the bearing, so you don't have to worry about going too far.

The PTO side bearing is pretty open to all sorts of contamination and water via the tunnel, that's why the bearing fails on that side more frequentlly. The bearing is shielded both sides, so when you put grease into the speedometer adapter, none of the grease actually makes it's way into the bearing. Some guys will remove the shield from the side the grease is coming in so that the bearing gets some grease but if you do that, you have to be careful not to "grease" the seal out on the other side.

Other things to look for; sometimes when the bearing on the PTO side fails, it drops the driveline enough that the chain is tweaked. The bottom sprocket may also gouge the chaincase and can also be damaged. Make sure to check there while it's apart. It's also common for the chaincase cover to get tweaked enough that the chaincase leaks fluid. Sometimes you can make those flat again, sometimes you will have to find a different one.

Good luck, hope it goes easy!

Thanks Dan.
I'm unfamiliar with what PTO stands for but I'm assuming you mean the side opposite of the chaincase. This is the bearing that was completely destroyed. I'm looking at an exploded view of the drive train and I see that this bearing is seated in front of the asm., flangette w/screws (part #1012945) and behind the flangette (part #5243529). It is my plan to move the drive shaft to the chaincase side by removing the sprockets as you suggest. How or what do you mean by pressed on? Is the inner race the part of the bearing that faces the speedo adaptor? I removed the bearing (what was left of it) and as far as I could see, all of it was intact with bearings missing. The inside seal of the bearing (faces toward the chaincase) was rapped around the drive shaft and this I can just snip out. I will be removing the chaincase for an inspection and will keep your recommendations in mind.
Thank you much!

**BC_Dan** · 08-26-2011, 08:26 AM

PTO = power take off, the clutch side. (vs. MAG for the magneto side)

JheLrey · 08-26-2011, 09:02 AM

Where in MN?

white lightning · 08-26-2011, 12:20 PM

BC DAN - in the older Indys - Polaris didnt have a grease fittings on the PTO side on upper and bottom shafts. They were very common to have bearing failures in that time. Which is one of the reasons why Polaris put on grease fittings on, to help prolong the bearing life. Ive worked on a few, taking the skids out is prolly the easiest way to gain access when needed. Plus at the same time - you may want to check the bearings on the skid as well while its out. Thats my take. WL.

**BC_Dan** · 08-26-2011, 02:52 PM

WL, the sled he is discussing is an Edge (2002).

On a lot of the older Polaris sleds, there was not a grease zerk on the jackshaft bearing, but there was a small hole to squirt grease. That grease never really goes into the bearing, as the bearings are sealed both sides. Having the grease around the bearing does help keep the water away. No water means greater bearing life. Squirting grease into the bearing retainer on the jackshaft can give you a warm fuzzy feeling, but it doesn't really do much for the bearing.

Squirting grease into the speedometer adapter keeps the speedometer adapter greased and will help exclude water from getting around the bearing and the adapter, which is helpful. Again, the bearing is sealed, not a lot of grease goes into the bearing.

That said, I grease everything. On the sleds with just a small hole, I use a grease gun with a tip for lubricating chain saw tips, it works perfect. You can also get grease needle attachments that will work as well.

On the IQ models, there's a sticker that states "grease every xxx miles" and absolutely NO way to get any grease into the bearing retainer. I even asked the mechanic at the dealer how to grease, he said he doesn't bother. Great.

twotonetony · 08-27-2011, 07:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JheLrey

Where in MN?

Mound, MN

twotonetony · 08-27-2011, 07:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BC_Dan

PTO = power take off, the clutch side. (vs. MAG for the magneto side)

Thank you! I'm on my way to pick up the parts from my local dealer. I will get a little more advise from them.

twotonetony · 08-27-2011, 07:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by white lightning

BC DAN - in the older Indys - Polaris didnt have a grease fittings on the PTO side on upper and bottom shafts. They were very common to have bearing failures in that time. Which is one of the reasons why Polaris put on grease fittings on, to help prolong the bearing life. Ive worked on a few, taking the skids out is prolly the easiest way to gain access when needed. Plus at the same time - you may want to check the bearings on the skid as well while its out. Thats my take. WL.

Last year I removed the skip when I replaced the track. In doing so I found that most bearing on my bogie wheels were frozen so I replaced all bogie wheels and asm wheels to include bearings along with the hi-fax.

twotonetony · 08-27-2011, 08:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JheLrey

Welcome! From MN as well...

Remove the skid! Easier!

Maple Grove? Ride with a club? I belong to the Westonka Snowblazers. You may have heard about us. We work the State Fair and also the vintage show on Lake Waconia.

Thanks for the welcome!

JheLrey · 08-27-2011, 09:05 AM

I am joining the Northwest Trail Ass. this year. Been doing work for them for the past few.

If you get into a jam, let me know. I've owned a few of those sleds in my lifetime.

twotonetony · 08-28-2011, 06:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JheLrey

I am joining the Northwest Trail Ass. this year. Been doing work for them for the past few.

If you get into a jam, let me know. I've owned a few of those sleds in my lifetime.

What counties does the Northwest Trail Assoc. cover? I may want to ride with them sometime. I'd ask for an email addy here but I don't know if it's a good idea listing it here.

Tony

twotonetony · 08-28-2011, 06:36 AM

I removed the skid, track & drive shaft yesterday. Took me about an hour. Removed chaincase cover. Bearing along with oil seal all look good. No damage to chain, sprocket, or case. Went and picked up all the parts I needed to replace bearing on clutch side. When I got home I noticed Tri-K forgot to give me the gasket for the drive adaptor and they are closed until Monday!

I want to thank everyone who replied to my thread. It's nice to have knowledgable people here to turn to! I'm sure I'll be back here soon.

JheLrey · 08-28-2011, 09:01 AM

Hennepin County is what we cover...

The gasket for the drive adapter as in the triangular one? I just reuse that one. Let's face it, it is holding in grease, not coolant. When you load it up with grease, it pushes out anyways.

twotonetony · 08-28-2011, 03:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JheLrey

Hennepin County is what we cover...

The gasket for the drive adapter as in the triangular one? I just reuse that one. Let's face it, it is holding in grease, not coolant. When you load it up with grease, it pushes out anyways.

Mine is so torn up I'm replacing it. We cover Hennipen county from Minnetonka west on Hwy 7 to Waconia.

**RJ Gleason** · 08-28-2011, 03:04 PM

You can buy a sheet of gasket paper at an auto supply store and make your own for way less than buying that one.