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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-02-2011, 08:25 PM Thread Starter
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Carb boots.

New to the site and a new owner of a 97' XLT SP.Sled has just under 3k miles and is in good,stock condition.I am hearing stories about bad carb boots being the death of engines.Is there a process of troubleshooting these or maintenance I can do to insure there in good cond.? Thanks in advance guys.BTW I have owned sleds in the past but just getting back into it so I just need a little bit of help on the newer maintenance.Thanks again for any help.
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-02-2011, 08:32 PM
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spray carb cleaner around them, if there is an rpm change, they need to be replaced

1998 Polaris XLT 600 Special
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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-02-2011, 09:01 PM
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Starting fluid will give a bit more noticeable difference. If they're cracked, it's better to replace them than it is to check them and feel safe knowing it's not all the way through yet. If they happen to break when you're out on the trails you'll either ruin the engine or need a tow out to avoid ruining the engine.

1996 Arctic cat ZR 580- 6 inch risers, C+A powder skis, 99 ZR's front suspension, freshly rebuilt engine

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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-02-2011, 09:56 PM
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A less messy way is to use a propane blow torch plus with the long end you can get under the boot as well. Turn it on but don't light it, start your sled and pass the end around the boots. You should hear a difference if the boots are bad.

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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-02-2011, 11:11 PM
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A less messy way is to use a propane blow torch plus with the long end you can get under the boot as well. Turn it on but don't light it, start your sled and pass the end around the boots. You should hear a difference if the boots are bad.
Yep...that's the best way to check them, just don't light the torch... but for cheap insurance, just buy new ones if there is any deterioration or cracking. They're not that expensive and not hard to change.
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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-03-2011, 07:05 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for all the input guys,I like the propane idea.I knew as soon as I purchased a sled I would appreciate this site.
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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-03-2011, 07:09 PM
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Yep, do it before it ends up like mine. Blew it up from a crack on the bottom of a carb boot that couldn't be seen by just looking/poking at them.
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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-04-2011, 08:33 PM
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but for cheap insurance, just buy new ones if there is any deterioration or cracking. They're not that expensive and not hard to change.
My thoughts exactly!

1996 Arctic cat ZR 580- 6 inch risers, C+A powder skis, 99 ZR's front suspension, freshly rebuilt engine

1992 Ski doo mach 1 617cc (the beast)

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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-05-2011, 05:57 PM
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What are the symptoms of boots going bad? Anything noticeable while running? Thanks

Blake

99 Polaris Indy 500 Classic Touring. Grew up riding 760 Panther, 399 Cheetah, and early Rupp 340.
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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-05-2011, 07:20 PM
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Well if you have an air leak, it'll run lean.

1996 Arctic cat ZR 580- 6 inch risers, C+A powder skis, 99 ZR's front suspension, freshly rebuilt engine

1992 Ski doo mach 1 617cc (the beast)

Die hard polaris anti-fanatic!

Do the snow dance with me!!! We don't get enough in Vermont!

And God said: "Let there be snow."

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post #11 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-06-2011, 07:01 PM
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I just changed the ones on my 97 xlt special.Got mine from Dennis Kirk.
Alot cheaper than genuine Polaris,and there made by Mikuni.I think they were $16 each,thats i think less than half of genuine Polaris.They are slightly shorter in length and that means that on the side that has the engine movement stop "snubber",there is a little interferance with the carb bowl
on the clutch side carb,but its nothin a grinder cant take care of.Actually i used a metal file,thats how little work you have to do.
Just change them anyway,its cheap insurance

600 XLT
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