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Old 01-31-2011, 07:08 PM   #1 (permalink)
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secondary clutch

Hi I have a 1995 polaris indy xlt special. Just bought last week has 5000 miles on it. My question is how much tension should be on the secondary clutch? I can grab the half closest to the motor and move it back and forth with not much effort. Should it have more tension? Also the whole clutch slides back and forth on the shaft is this normal. This is my first year with a sled so i'm new to all this.
Thanks in advance
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Old 02-01-2011, 01:33 AM   #2 (permalink)
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The float is normal. There should be enough tension so the belt doesn't slip (stock answer).
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Old 02-01-2011, 09:17 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Ok thanks
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Old 02-01-2011, 11:25 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Not so stock answer...

The pretension can be anywhere from 6 to 25 lbs. You can measure what it is by using a fish scale. Remove the belt, hook the end of the spring scale on the secondary's movable sheave (inside sheave) and pull at a right angle to an imaginary line that goes from the center of the clutch to the point of attachment (radius).

The higher the pretension, the quicker the backshifting. Usually, engines with higher HP need higher pretension in the secondary.

If your sled seems slow to backshift, it could be because the spring is weak with age. Inside the clutch, there are several holes. You can move the spring into a different hole that will put more tension on the spring, giving more pretension. Adding pretension in the secondary will also increase the max RPM the engine turns by about 200 rpm per hole, so be aware of that. Some guys use the spring adjustment to fine tune the RPM, but there is a possiblity that you can loose efficiency in the drive system and create too harsh of a backshift by doing that.
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Old 02-06-2011, 08:23 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BC_Dan View Post
Not so stock answer...

The pretension can be anywhere from 6 to 25 lbs. You can measure what it is by using a fish scale. Remove the belt, hook the end of the spring scale on the secondary's movable sheave (inside sheave) and pull at a right angle to an imaginary line that goes from the center of the clutch to the point of attachment (radius).

The higher the pretension, the quicker the backshifting. Usually, engines with higher HP need higher pretension in the secondary.

If your sled seems slow to backshift, it could be because the spring is weak with age. Inside the clutch, there are several holes. You can move the spring into a different hole that will put more tension on the spring, giving more pretension. Adding pretension in the secondary will also increase the max RPM the engine turns by about 200 rpm per hole, so be aware of that. Some guys use the spring adjustment to fine tune the RPM, but there is a possiblity that you can loose efficiency in the drive system and create too harsh of a backshift by doing that.

BC - you seem to know a lot about clutches. I did the marker trick this weekend. I have 3/4 inch (at least) of marker left on the outer edge of the primary sheave. The secondary is WAY too hard to open up manually. I have to use the adjuster set-screw to look in there. I'm assuming it's not opening enough for the primary to hit top speed.

Should the secondary be so tight that on the bench, I can't force the sheaves open all the way? This is on a 2004 Polaris 550 Trail RMK. Also seems funny that the clutch mfg date is '05 on an '04 sled. Maybe it's been replaced? I haven't had the secondary apart yet to look at the spring. I tried, but snapped a Torx bit in half trying to loosen the first helix screw.
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Old 02-06-2011, 10:55 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Those Team clutches are very hard to open, that's why all the Polaris sleds have the tool. The torx screws are a PAIN! I have tried several different manufacturer's tools to have one that will do 'em every time, but they still twist or break. Sometimes a little heat is necessary, I even bought a small torch to heat just the screw, but still twisted a new bit on the last one I tried to open. I don't like things I can't work on. There's got to be a secret!
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Old 02-07-2011, 08:39 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BC_Dan View Post
Those Team clutches are very hard to open, that's why all the Polaris sleds have the tool. The torx screws are a PAIN! I have tried several different manufacturer's tools to have one that will do 'em every time, but they still twist or break. Sometimes a little heat is necessary, I even bought a small torch to heat just the screw, but still twisted a new bit on the last one I tried to open. I don't like things I can't work on. There's got to be a secret!
I know what you mean... I once had a starter ring on a Cat clutch that I couldn't get the screws out of. I ended up tack-welding a piece of 1/4" rod to the head of the screw. The heat loosened the green Loc-Tite they used on the screws, and the rod gave me leverage to remove the screws. Then I simply ground the rod off the screw... welded it to the next one... and so on. Got them all out that way.

Anyway, should the sheaves be that tight? I literally cannot push them more than 1/4" open, pressing on the sheave with both hands as hard as I can.
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2004 Polaris Trail RMK 136
1997 Ski Doo Summit 500
2000 Arctic Cat ZL550 ESR (in NY)
2000 Arctic Cat 440 Panther (sold)
1980 Arctic Cat Jag 3000 F/C (in NY)

"If it ain't broke, take it apart and find out why!"
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Old 02-07-2011, 09:10 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by BC_Dan View Post
...There's got to be a secret!
BTW - The "secret", according to the manual is:

"Note: If the Torx screws are difficult to remove tap the screw with a punch that is larger than the Torx head (the larger punch is used to prevent any damage to the Torx points)."
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2004 Polaris Trail RMK 136
1997 Ski Doo Summit 500
2000 Arctic Cat ZL550 ESR (in NY)
2000 Arctic Cat 440 Panther (sold)
1980 Arctic Cat Jag 3000 F/C (in NY)

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