'97 Polaris XLT SP problems - Snowmobile Forum: Your #1 Snowmobile Forum
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Old 01-24-2011, 04:27 PM   #1 (permalink)
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'97 Polaris XLT SP problems

Hey guys, new to the forum. I bought a '97 XLT a few weeks ago and have been having problems with it lately. The sled only has 2500 miles on it and is in near perfect shape.

-When I was riding a couple nights ago, I hit 90 and it bogged out like it was going to quit. This was with wide open throttle. I let off the throttle for a few seconds...slowed to around 20...hit it again and it pulled hard until 90 again. Then it bogged out again. Not sure if it happens at any particular RPM.

-My first thought was to check compression. Before buying it, I ran a compression test and got 120 across all 3 cylinders. I tested it again after I noticed this problem and I'm only getting 100 lbs in all 3 cylinders.

-I talked to Polaris and they suggested checking the seal by spraying with carb cleaner and seeing if idle changes. Tried that and nothing changed. The area around the seal looks dry and clean.

-I lost the foam filter that goes on top of the intake box. Would this affect compression?

Any thoughts would be appreciated.

Thanks

Justin
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Old 02-02-2011, 11:40 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Since my first post I've put another 100 miles on it...still having the same problem. The "blizzard" brought some deep snow and the sled really struggles now...cant hold anything over 5500-6000 rpm in deep snow. It doesn't quit, it just loses power. I can hold the throttle wide open in deep snow and it'll bounce around between 4000 and 6000 rpm. When i let off the throttle, it'll go right back down to idle at 1500-2000 rpm...she'll run like that all day long. I checked the carb boots...they appear to be fine. Other than that I haven't messed with anything.

Need advice....was hoping to hit the trails this weekend.

Any thoughts would be appreciated.
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Old 02-03-2011, 01:26 AM   #3 (permalink)
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The foam between the engine and hood is important! It allows the engine to breathe cooler air from behind the windshield instead of hot air from under the hood.
First thing I would do is change the plugs.
As for the compression, make sure your oil injection is working and there are no vacuum leaks like carb boots and crank seals. Any of these problems will cause increased wear, i.e. lower compression. You can check the boots and seals with a propane torch.
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Old 02-03-2011, 06:42 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Your carbs may need to be drained & cleaned! As far as loosing the compression lbs. from 120 to 100 in all three cyl. you may have scored the pistons from a lean condition from dirty carbs!? At WOT, Check thoughs carbs!
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Old 02-03-2011, 05:41 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Pulled the carbs first thing this morning because some friends asked if i wanted to ride later today...everything looked good so i did not remove any jets/air screws/etc... Just removed the float bowls and put them back together. However, I did find that the oil injection "throttle" (or oiler mechanism??...whatever its called) was rubbing on the drain hose for the float bowl on the carb above it. I hit the throttle and sure enough, the oil throttle was staying wide open after letting off with my thumb. I moved that hose and the oiler moves freely now.

After i got everything back together i took it for a short ride and it seemed to run much better....only had it out for a few minutes though.

After opening her up in the field, it wouldn't idle back down to normal...it now idles at 4000 rpm.

I was told to turn the idle adjustment screws all the way in, then turn each back out 1.5 turns, then tune from there.

Started it up at 1.5 turns out and it idled at 6500.

I now have them out 6 turns, which I'm assuming is way too far. It idles at 2000 with the hood open...if i close the hood it revs up to 3500.

No idea where to begin...I've had a few of these sleds but never experienced issues with them like this.

If somebody could point me in the right direction that would be great....thanks for the input so far.
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Old 02-04-2011, 05:52 AM   #6 (permalink)
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When I do a carb cleaning I tear down the complete carb clean & inspect all ports.This idle problem your having is telling you something! Are all the carb cylinders closing properly? you may have to take the air box to check this.Is your throttle cable in good condition? One piece of frayed cable ,or kinked cable can do this causing a high idle! If there are any signs change the cable.

There also can be a air leak ! Intake Boots around the carbs ,or your PTO seal !?
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Old 02-05-2011, 01:19 PM   #7 (permalink)
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you realy need to take some time and clean the carbs well, take them all the way down , pull the pilet jet out its the little one with the slot cut in it - check al the little ports you have 1 going from top to bottom and 4 going around the sides after the threads(mine plug up often and will help cause a high idle,if you blip the choke does it idle down then go back up? if so check these ) pull the main jet and the jet needle, that pushes into the carb body (only after you remove the main jet) pull the air screws and just clean it up good. it dosent take a lot of dirt to mess up any carb. the farther out the air screws are the leaner the idle mix will be .air screw=extra air at idle hope this helps some
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Old 02-06-2011, 12:43 PM   #8 (permalink)
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For sure remove the carbs and completely disassemble them. I used a piece of phone cable wire to help clean out all the little passages in the carbs and parts. Make sure everything is clean when reassembling it too. I believe the air screws should be 1 1/2 out on that sled.

As far as setting the idle, here's what I did:

Remove air box, turn the idle screw out to let the slide bottom out. Now, with one finger in the bore of the carb(touching the slide) turn the screw in until it just touches and starts to move the slide up. From that point, turn it it 2 full turns. DO this on all carbs and you should be really close on idle speed. It worked great on my XLT idle was right at 1600RPM after setting it this way.
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