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Old 10-18-2010, 07:53 PM   #1 (permalink)
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No lights on XC 600

When I bought my XC 600, there were no bulbs in either the headlight and the taillight. Before I bought bulbs for it I wanted to test the sockets. And that was probably a good idea, because I'm not getting power to the bulb sockets.
Im looking for advice on what to try here, Like where to test, is there even a fuse panel on these sleds somewhere? etc, I'm really new to working on sleds so all help is appreciated.
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Old 10-18-2010, 08:02 PM   #2 (permalink)
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If there is anything elec. like hand warmers ,or helmet visor plug & nothing then it might be your stator?
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Old 10-18-2010, 08:52 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Thumb warmer works, Haven't tried hand warmers.
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Old 10-18-2010, 09:20 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Hold on , trying to think...It hurts... um,how bout the regulator ? I think I've heard maybe something like that , if the reg. burning out bulbs if generating to much , or something shorting out ?
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Old 10-18-2010, 09:45 PM   #5 (permalink)
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A faulty voltage regulator would mean no thumb warmers I'm pretty sure... if you were getting too much in the light bulb socket that would be one thing, but I don't think too little is a voltage regulator problem. Check the wiring.
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Old 10-18-2010, 09:49 PM   #6 (permalink)
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I had a similar problem last year on my 800 edge, sometimes my lights wouldnt work or they would flicker and such, I ordered a regular and before it even got here they worked fine and havent had a problem since.. it was really weird, i dont know man..

x2 on the regulator though
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Old 10-18-2010, 10:16 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Throw some bulbs in it & see if anything is happening ,if not check wiring , if not I would wonder about the stator?
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Old 10-18-2010, 11:00 PM   #8 (permalink)
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I think Mighty Quinn is on to somthing, Put some new bulbs in there. if they happen to blow out Check you voltage regulator. You can do this by measuring the voltage going into your regulator, if I remeber correctly it should be 14 volts or over going in.The output should be no more than 12 . If the voltage is higher than 12 after the regulator you will have to change your regulator. If the voltage is 12 than you have somthing else happening like a bad ground or somthing . Good luck
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Old 10-19-2010, 04:08 PM   #9 (permalink)
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when you tested for power at the sockets did you use a voltmeter? If so were you using the D/C volts scale? Since the lights and hand warmer use A/C voltage your meter would not show any power if you used the D/C volts scale on a meter. This would explain why the hand warmers work even though you show no power. The hand warmers and the headlights are supplied from the same coil in the stator so it stands to reason that you must have power to the lights if the hand warmers are working. And yes if the voltage regulator is defective it could cause the voltage to be over 15 VAC especially at high RPM which would ultimately burn out the bulbs......
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Old 10-19-2010, 06:46 PM   #10 (permalink)
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[QUOTE=mrholmquist;391071]when you tested for power at the sockets did you use a voltmeter? If so were you using the D/C volts scale? Since the lights and hand warmer use A/C voltage your meter would not show any power if you used the D/C volts scale on a meter. /QUOTE]

Well, that is probably the reason there. As I was using my meter on the DC setting. That is probably most certainly the problem there. I will check tomorrow when I'm back at the shop and report back, but I think that you are exactly right on that one. I'll try it on AC tomorrow and see what happens.
Now I have a decent understanding of electricity, at least for my age anyway but why is it AC is that because there is a stator and not a generator?
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Old 10-19-2010, 08:29 PM   #11 (permalink)
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A stator is pretty much the same thing as a generator. I'm not good with electrical, but I'm pretty sure that the voltage regulator is what makes it A/C. The current is generated by the stator and sent to the regulator, where it is then dispersed to the components as necessary. The excess electricity goes to your ground. With a direct current you'd have all of the electricity going into each component and none coming back out. Am I in the ball park holm?
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Old 10-20-2010, 12:02 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Every Stator produces AC...(alternating current,generators are a bit different only in the fact that they only produce DC.) set your meter on AC volts and run your sled, you should get 90-130volts ac at the yellow wires coming out of the stator. the power then goes generally to the rectifier to change AC to DC(direct current)( changes AC to DC by cutting of the top of the sine wave) power then goes to the reguator to limit the power to the rest of the sled so you dont blow anything out electrically. hope this helps!
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Old 10-20-2010, 07:08 AM   #13 (permalink)
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I had a similar problem with my sled last year and it was caused by a faulty/ corroded ground connection on my regulator.
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Old 10-20-2010, 12:22 PM   #14 (permalink)
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I'm with Kik, my son's 440 xcr was blowing bulbs and flickering, sanded the grounding tab and wire conections on the regulator shiny clean, used a new shiny grounding bolt, and it has been flawless ever since.
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Old 10-20-2010, 02:35 PM   #15 (permalink)
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The stator lighting coil is essentially a winding of wire which is located in close proximity to the magnets attached to the flywheel. As the magnets move past the lighting coil windings energy is induced into the coil. Whenever the north pole of the magnet moves past the winding energy is induced into the coil but when the south pole subsequently moves past the winding the induced current will be in reverse polarity. So the voltage produced will constantly be switching or alternating which is why the stator produces alternating current (A/C). Since resistive loads such as light bulbs or hand and thumb warmers function well on A/C there is no need to incorporate a rectifier into the circuit to change the A/C voltage to D/C. If the sled has a battery we will need a rectifier to change the magneto output to D/C in order to recharge the battery. The A/C voltage the stator will produce is dependant upon RPM. the faster the magnets rotate past the lighting coil windings the higher the induced voltage will be. In order not to damage the system and burn out the light bulbs at high rpm a voltage regulator needs to be incorporated. The regulator will limit the maximum voltage the system will run by shunting any excess voltage , say over 15v back to chassis. That is why it is so important the regulator is making good contact with the chassis because if it is not it will not be able to maintain the system voltage.

Some regulators have a rectifier built in if the vehicle uses a battery. The motorcycle guys used to call these an ...R & R...(regulator/rectifier). Sometimes the regulator and rectifier are separate. Polaris used to supply a separate rectifier in their accessory electric start kit.

Polaris specifies the lighting coil output on a 98 xc600 with the regulator disconnected (unregulated )
to be between 15 and 45 VAC at 3000 rpm. You will not see 90 to 130 VAC
but you certainly had the right idea Fireborn230.

The regulator on a 98xc600 is rated to 14.4 VAC but Polaris does not actually publish a specified voltage with the regulator connected because the internal construction of the regulator can cause reading abnormalities with some meters even if the system is functioning properly.

If you want to read more You can do a web search on :

half wave and full wave rectification and also

rectifier bridges

Last edited by mrholmquist; 10-20-2010 at 02:52 PM.
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Old 10-23-2010, 04:03 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Alright, So I got over to the shop the other day, and got a reading across the headlight socket. I was getting a reading of between 6 and 7 VAC at idle. Is this reasonable or do I have a problem somewhere else? Or should I just order bulbs and give it a shot?
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Old 10-23-2010, 04:47 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Try for a DC reading, minimum should be about 11vdc at idle.
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Old 10-23-2010, 07:11 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Hmm, Im getting mixed replys here, one is telling me AC, I have 6VAC at idle, and others are saying DC, I'm reading 0VDC at idle. So, Im not sure what it should be.
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Old 10-24-2010, 09:01 AM   #19 (permalink)
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6VAC is low at idle....turn the hand and thumb warmers off and retest. It is possible they are shorted or defective and drawing too much power.
If voltage is still low disconnect the voltage regulator and check to see you have 15-45VAC at 3000 rpm.
like stated in the service manual. If you do with the reg disconnected but voltage is low with it connected then replace the regulator.
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